Radial arm saw fence

[Dan Chouinard]

What type of fence should I put on a new radial arm bench for quick and accurate repeat cuts. Some type of t-track with a tape measure on top and a sliding stop?

[Erik Christensen]

Dan - I am struggling with the same question myself. I am going to just embed a T track in the table top outside the range of the saw when at max angle with the track just on the cut side of the fence. Not going to use a permanent tape as it is only good for 90 cuts and I usually measure the board itself for single cuts. If I going to be making multiple pieces I don't mind using my portable tape to set the stop block - I will use a quick release fitting for the T track.

[david brum]

Hi Dan

My RAS bench is 8' with the RAS centered. I made the fence, also centered behind the RAS, replaceable. The replaceable section is 36". With all the cuts an RAS is capable of, that fence gets chewed up pretty quickly, so it is important for it to be disposable as well as reversible. I also made mine with a 3" gap at the ends, so I can slide it over to get a fresh backing. I have found that the height of the fence depends on what kind of cut I'm doing. I use whatever 3/4" material I've got around (fir, ply, melamine).

The permanent sections of fence on either side of the disposable sectrion are 3/4" ply, protruding around 2" above the bench. I didn't add T track or a measuring tape. I had those before and found that I was just as happy clamping a block onto the fence as a stop.

[Bill Orbine]

http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/AccessoriesDetail.aspx?ProductID=13595

There are many systems. The the stop shown at link provided above is my favorite. I put built a couple table extensions and got a large piece of 1-1/2" x 3" extruded aluminum and mounted it behind the extension as a fence stop and then applied PSA tape for measured cuts.

[Chip Lindley]

Biesemeyer is my favorite too. Delta sells the whole fence system, but that is pricey for a home shop. Buying a dual-pointer stop is a good investment though. I have a flip stop and gang stop also! (just couldn't resist!) Those are offered on ebay from time to time. That's where I got mine.

The stops travel on a 1-1/2" square steel tube. Aluminum or wood can be used just as well in your shop. Once the tape is applied, and the stop is zeroed to your blade, repeatable cuts are too easy!

Dual Pointer Stop
168480

Flip Stop
168481

Gang Stop
168482

[Tim Sgrazzutti]

RAS fences are best when the are easily replaceable, I would never want to have one that's permanent. Clear softwood works good because it becomes straight when clamped to the jointed back edge of your table. Moveable fences are good because when your kerf through the fence gets too wide, you can slide the fence over to make a clean new kerf. It's really easy then to line up a cut mark on your stock to the kerf on the fence and know exactly where the blade will enter your stock.

All that being said, I prefer a block of wood clamped to the fence for a stop, or sometimes just a clamp on the fence if I'm not doing anything too precise. Doing it that way, the stop can be whatever size and shape you need. Also, a removable fence can be whatever length you need, so if you need a longer distance to your stop, it's easy to do.

[Mike Harrison]

I don't have a fence with a ruler. when doing batches of parts, I just use a small old hand screw clamp and a dedicated stop stick, along with the original part for setup. Everything else is marked and I take or leave the line as required.

[Jeff Miller]

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f32/woodfarmer/Twelve%20inch%20RAS/12ras028.jpg?t=1291050927





http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f32/woodfarmer/Twelve%20inch%20RAS/12ras008.jpg?t=1291050996




http://cdn9.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg288/g/g2993.jpg



http://www.grizzly.com/products/G2993






JEFF:D