My First Plane(s) .. Help .. (Pic Heavy)

[Greg Scull]

Hi, Its my first time posting in this section of the forum as I have mainly been building my power tools and have yet to begin acquiring hand tools (cost ouch!). But I wanted a plane for my current project (to knock down plugs) so I posted on Craigslist. In response I came home with these planes today. Not sure if these are what I was looking for but for 31$ I had in my pocket I couldn't resist.

I'm going to the library tomorrow to pickup their stock of hand plane books.



http://lh5.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA7HjVeA7I/AAAAAAAANek/ct6mSLI9pTI/s400/IMG_1183.JPG

There are two of these wooden ones but I am not sure what they are ... or are for?

#1
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA6zE6r5zI/AAAAAAAANds/owON1b5kXgs/s400/IMG_1177.JPG
#2
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA629uyMRI/AAAAAAAANd4/nXV5_TE5krM/s400/IMG_1178.JPG

I am not sure what the grit of this stone is but it says it is for woodworking tools.
#3
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA66dswJtI/AAAAAAAANeA/iOKk36eDL6M/s400/IMG_1179.JPG
#4
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA69-I6ekI/AAAAAAAANeI/IJAfyH9Fd5o/s400/IMG_1180.JPG
#5
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA7BFQzcDI/AAAAAAAANeU/3qqNrGp48QM/s400/IMG_1181.JPG
#6 One of these says 151 and the other says 51? Its pretty hard to read.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA7MIFW9YI/AAAAAAAANe0/Sf0eDus4SpA/s400/IMG_1184.JPG
#7 Number 3
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA7TKZ2VwI/AAAAAAAANfQ/F2DQUdWXNzo/s400/IMG_1186.JPG
#8 Number 4
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA7W00Zu0I/AAAAAAAANfc/WzcL4U1-ms4/s400/IMG_1187.JPG
#9 Number 5 ( this one I think is broken as it was welded on the side) see next pic.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA7cvOThnI/AAAAAAAANfs/_khEx4UPUlo/s400/IMG_1189.JPG
#10
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA7f3dVeVI/AAAAAAAANf0/iYEaj1Kd3xk/s400/IMG_1190.JPG
#11
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPA7jVsg_kI/AAAAAAAANgA/PA7yuNJcGA0/s400/IMG_1191.JPG

[John Keeton]

I think you did really well for your $31!! A little Evaporust, and some elbow grease, and you can have a few users there.

In the future Greg, try to limit your pics to 5 per post per the TOS. Thanks.

[Jonathan McCullough]

The plane in picture labeled #2 is a plough plane. It is for making dadoes and grooves. You appear to have only one blade but may be able to get others.

Picture labeled #4 appears to be a moving fillister/fillitster for making rabbets/rebates. I think it, along with the plough, are Dutch.

The Bailey No. 3 and Bailey No. 4 are good, common smoothing planes, and awful as they look now you could probably fix them up to working condition. The No. 5 is a Jack plane, good for hogging stuff off or for use as a smoothing plane if necessary, and it's long enough to do some short jointing, like on the bottom of a stuck door. Since the cheek is broken and welded back on you may want to use it for rough stuff like a scrub plane.

The plane in picture labeled #11 is a common block plane, pretty handy for chamfering corners.

The planes in picture labeled #6 are actually spoke shaves. They're good for smoothing on curves.

All very useful planes, and a bargain at $31.

[Jim Koepke]

Looks like the kind of deal I would love to find.

Check out the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs "Sticky" post at the top of Neanderthal Haven to find a lot of helpful information on how to get those planes back to work.

Even the beat up ones will be worth hanging on to for parts when you find plane bodies that are not complete.

jtk

[Bill Houghton]

You've had good answers on the planes.

In your first photo, in the upper left corner, are what look from here like a couple of sets of bar clamps. These are designed to go on wood bars - roughly 2x3s in most cases - to be used like bar or pipe clamps. If you have any questions about how they work, send me a private message with your e-mail, and I can send you some photos of the similar clamps I got from my grandfather.

[Greg Scull]

Thanks John for keeping me in line. I need to re-read that TOS.


Even the beat up ones will be worth hanging on to for parts when you find plane bodies that are not complete.

Well In a completely unexpected turn of events the phone rang again. I think this is the most successful CL ad I have ever posted.

This time he had 3 planes all of equal size which he wanted to give me for free.
an hour and 30 minutes later I got there. Turns out the 3 was actually 4 :).

Theese ones are a little worse off but some of the parts seem much more intact than the ones earlier in the day.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPB2O3HwvDI/AAAAAAAANgs/bNABwqhS60M/s400/IMG_1192.JPG

The Left most one is a Stanley #3

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPB2SLUVzAI/AAAAAAAANg0/FfJkvbV4xyM/s400/IMG_1193.JPG

The next from the left says Handyman on it
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPB2VKb0UEI/AAAAAAAANhA/OTiuf0nmcVk/s400/IMG_1194.JPG

Next one says Millers Falls no99
I guess I didn't have a single picture of this one but its above in the group shot.

and last says Great Neck g-4
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_f7_YyMqNU1I/TPB2XyFoFUI/AAAAAAAANhI/YMJcpxJ914k/s400/IMG_1195.JPG


Now its time to read about restoring these and making a few work for me...

Thanks everyone for your help! I'm on a pretty rusty cloud 9 now !

[Bill Houghton]

I've had good success, with limited experience so far, with white vinegar - cheap and easy to get at your local supermarket. Disassemble the planes, and soak the metal parts for about 24 hours in the vinegar, then brush. Repeat as needed.

A plastic drywall mud pan (14" is best - should fit a No. 5 jack plane) would make a good soaking vat. If you have cats and use clumping kitty litter, the big white plastic jugs the litter comes in will work for smaller tools.

[Thomas Laursen]

Picture labeled #4 appears to be a moving fillister/fillitster for making rabbets/rebates. I think it, along with the plough, are Dutch.

Hi

I believe the fillister is a danish plane of the brand JPBO. I have a number of planes from this maker. The letters stand for Johan P. Bendixen - Odense. Odense being the city in which they are from. Usually they were fitted with E. A. Berg or Sandviken steel from Sweden. They are good planes so good luck with it.

Thomas

168505

[Greg Scull]

I had a chance yesterday to make some cutting boards for the Preschool teachers. It was my first chance to use one of the #3s from above which I have brought back to working order.

It was pretty fun to see the full size shavings coming off the board in multi color! All I can say is WOW having never used hand planes I had no idea the finish I was in for.

174091174093174094174092

[Zach England]

If you are interested in selling the wooden planes you will likely recover your $31 and then some. *wink*

[Greg Scull]

If you are interested in selling the wooden planes you will likely recover your $31 and then some. *wink*

I have thought about it. I tried to research what they cost but arent easy to "Google" to find out. Certainly not like looking up some of the more common metal planes.

the #2(picture) is in really great shape and appears to be completely intact.
the JPBO plane has one broken part, the metal fence on the bottom was broken by the stress of the screws that hold it in place. Still looks like it would work but certainly not "prime" condition :)

[Chen-Tin Tsai]

I had a chance yesterday to make some cutting boards for the Preschool teachers. It was my first chance to use one of the #3s from above which I have brought back to working order.

It was pretty fun to see the full size shavings coming off the board in multi color! All I can say is WOW having never used hand planes I had no idea the finish I was in for.

174091174093174094174092

Whoa, very nice. Which of the #3's did you clean up into the one in this first picture? That's an amazing clean-up job!

[Brett Bobo]

I agree with Chen-Tin, that's a great clean-up job! What was your process? Great find by the way!

[Greg Scull]

Whoa, very nice. Which of the #3's did you clean up into the one in this first picture? That's an amazing clean-up job!

its the "#7 Number 3 " picture from above. It did clean up nicely.
It had a bunch of rust, a broken tote, and needed to be cleaned up a bit. I used Electrolysis, sandpaper sharpening and lapping. I glued the tote and put a fresh coat of shellac on them.

I was kinda torn if I wanted it to look "new" or cleaned up patina look. I figured since I want to use them for a long time I would rather have them looking pretty than have them with their original patina.

The only step I didn't do which I want to do on some of the others is to restore the japanning. I haven't found a good thread/process that I wanted to use yet though. Seems like the original was baked on? I was thinking just a good coat of enamel with the machined parts masked off on the next one will suffice.

[Greg Scull]

I should also mention... I thought my electrolysis process was pretty cool. I used a laptop charger from an older HP with a bucket and re-bar. to connect it all up I used the steel re-bar wire found at the BORG. Just stick one piece in the middle of the plug, wrap one around the outside, wire it all up, plug it in, and keep all living animals away from it until its done burbling. About 12 hours per piece.

[Jim Koepke]

Greg,

That is a nice looking plane for your efforts. There is quite a lot of information available on different ways people have used to restore the finish on their old planes. I just go the easy way and strip off as much of the old as I can and spray it with a gloss enamel. I am not sure if any of the threads in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs go into these methods. Others have actually gone to the trouble of using a small toaster oven to do the baking enamel process. Others even go so far as to find asphaltum coatings for the historic preservation approach.

There really isn't a wrong way.

Even if you want to paint it brick red or army green, it is your plane and your right.

jtk

[Jeremy Dorn]

Jims right, there are quite a few different postings on the restoration topic that describe different ways to refinish the jappaning on a plane. I myself always come back to using white vinegar to de-rust the plane, then if the japanning's in rough shape I'll strip it using glass beads, mask off the machined areas, and then repaint it using a black semi-gloss engine paint (8-10 coats), and I find that the finish it leaves me with is a very close visual copy to original black japanning, and it has proven sufficiently durable on a number of user planes that see daily use in my shop.