She leaves the factory on Monday!!!! Suggestions on tooling required!

[Rick Markham]

Thanks for the help fellas... The Mustard Monster (3520B) leaves the factory on Monday headed to my home... I'm super excited, I have waited a very long time (nearly a decade) to start turning. It's long overdue, now it's turning tools time. I am primarily interested in hollow forms so bear that in mind.

So why don't y'all start listing the necessities ;) I welcome all suggestions... Please bear in mind that it is worth the investment to me to spend a little more money on something if its quality and a purchase only once kind of a deal...

Chucks... Hollowing system... all associated hand tools ;)... swing away tailstocks... etc... Let your imagination run wild...:eek: Clue me in please :D

[Jim Burr]

Gratz Rick and Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, Happy Fathers, Mothers and Valentines day for the next few years!!:p:p
Talk to Randy at Monster for your hollowing stuff. Thompson tools...IMHO are the best, but I have a couple of Henry Taylor's I just love! We just had a big thread on sharpening so refer to that...and it doesn't happen if there are no pictures! :D:D

[Rick Markham]

Oh there will be pictures... might be kinda hard to keep my ugly smiling mug out of them though LOL

Yeah, the monster hollowing system was the one that really interested me, they will definitely be getting a call from me.

As for sharpening, I will definitely be reading up on that thread. I already own a Tormek, but I am flexible and always open to other options.

Yeah, I am pretty sure I have taken care of Christmas's and birthdays for at least the next decade... It was totally worth it though :D

[John Keeton]

Rick, the articulated Monster hollowing rig is the one I have, and love it. He also has the captured system (or both!) for deeper forms - beyond about 8-9".

For HFs, in addition to the Monster rig, the tools I use are a 5/8", 1/2", 3/8" bowl gouges - mostly the 5/8" V gouge. For detailing and finial work, I use a 3/8" spindle gouge, 3/8" detail gouge, and a couple of 1/4" detail gouges - each with a different grind. Buy Thompson!!

Chucks - Nova, Vicmarc or OneWay are all good, and several guys have the $99 Grizzly Vicmarc clone and love it. Just get one brand and stick with it so the jaws will interchange. You will need more than one chuck, too, unless you like to change jaws a lot. And, there are times I find myself having three chucks in use - even on just one lathe! I have ended up with 4 Nova chucks. One of those is dedicated to soft jaws, and I keep one with 50mm jaws, one with pin jaws, and one with 20mm jaws.

Congrats, and have fun!!

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Congrats Rick, I know you will love that lathe. Now, mix that Mustard with some Stihl Orange so you will have plenty of blanks.:D

[George Clark]

Rick,

There are a gazillion tools out there, all with your name on them. Truth is you only need a few to do a lot of turning; a spindle roughing gouge, a bowl gouge, a spindle gouge, a parting tool and a scraper along with a steb center, a live center and a face plate will handle a multitude of projects. I'd opt for larger rather than smaller on the tools at first. You can turn small projects with large tools but the converse is not true.

The one thing you absolutely can't do without is a sharpening system. Get a decent grinder and learn to use it. I'd suggest an 8" slow speed and a Wolverine
system, but there are certainly other suitable choices.
Whatever system you choose learn to use it. Buying some cheap Harbor Freight tools to practice on might not be a bad idea. Sharp tools will definitely shorten your learning curve at the lathe.

Trust me, one more new tool will not make you a better turner. Ask me how I know that to be true.:D

Have fun.

George

[George Morris]

Congrats! Great machine. Check out the Mustard Monster web site for lots of ideas!
i built the swing away tail stock with some plywood, hinges and steel plate cost about $25
I did buy the remote shut off best investment I use it all the time!

Enjoy! G

[George Guadiane]

Congratulations on an excellent choice.
I'm casting another vote for the Monster Articulated Arm setup, I really love mine.
My favorite cutter is the Rolly Munro hollower and it just happens to fit right into the Monster setup.
Gouges, Thompson, P&N Scrapers, the bigger the better.

[Jeff Fagen]

If I were starting where you are I would take a strong look a Lyle Jameisons tools and videos,I think you can get good results without over spending.

[Mitch McGee]

Congrats on the fresh monster!

Here is something I did to ease leveling the ways. I greased the four levelers and screwed them all the way in before ataching the legs to the ways. Then I ran the factory supplied nuts down the exposed threads far enouh to allow the extra nuts to be double nutted at the top of the threads.

Now I can level the ways with a rachet on the top of the double nuts and use the factory nut to lock the leveler in place.

Cheers,

[Baxter Smith]

Congrats! Nice lathe! Will second the wolverine sharpening system if you don't already have something.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Congrats on the lathe. Another vote for the monster articulating arm hollower.

[David E Keller]

Hard to name absolute necessities, but I'll lists few hits that I'm glad I don't have to do without.

1. Swing away... Whether you buy or build. I bought.
2. Monster system... I got both but I've only used the ariculated up to this point.
3. Steady rest... I don't use it often, but when you need it, you need it.
4. Sorby midi hollowmaster. This is what I started using(pre monster), and I still reach for it on occasion.
5. Chucks... I agree with JK... Pick a brand and stick with it. You can start with one, but you'll want more.
6. 1/2 inch or 5/8 long grind bowl gouge... I like my thompson's
7. Parting tool... Here's one that's easy to make yourself.

The list goes on and will vary based on the size of your turnings and the direction you choose.

Congrats on the lathe!

[gary Zimmel]

Congrats on the Mustard Monster Rick. You will love that machine.
Looking forward to seeing it all set up and making shavings.

[Harry Robinette]

I say monsters together.you have one now get the other( monster Hollower)so far your making great choices.I myself have most all of Doug 's tools I don't think you can go wrong with Thompson tools,but do your shapening practice on ben's best or harbor frieght.Like Doug say's everything that can be done to his steel is done.
Also congrats on the lathe and entering the vortex.

[Rick Markham]

Thanks Y'all! I appreciate all the advice you have given... keep it coming. I know I am going to end up with the Monster articulated system, I was sold on it awhile ago when watching the video of them using it. Later I suppose I will get the captured system as I want to do some deep hollow forms eventually.

JK thanks for your "short" list, that is exactly what I needed. Thanks y'all for telling me to go big on the tools first, I never would have known that if ya hadn't shared.

Do any of you use a Tormek T7 with the silicon carbide wheel for sharpening, or do you all almost exclusively use the slow speed grinder. (I know the tormek is slower for grinding, but I am pretty meticulous and patient when it comes to sharpening so I don't mind)

I also have the luxury of being pretty handy at metal working, and can heat temper my own steel etc, so I will probably be picking y'all's brains on some of the tools that I know I can make by hand.

So it seems the consensus is Thompson tools... I will put them at the top of my list!

I will definitely take the advice of sticking with one brand of chucks, what sizes should I be looking at? Is there an advantage of one brand over the other? I will probably try and buy 2 to start out with.

I appreciate y'all helping me, I plan on being pretty diligent about purchasing my tools, and it will probably take me some time to get a good setup going (It's ok I have waited a long time to get into this aspect of woodworking)

I'm truly a blessed individual, to have a supportive family, a great place like the Creek with great craftsmen to learn and share with, and for some reason God's blessed me with some innate artistic talents that I have recently realized (drawing and painting) and I am really super excited to get to explore all the wonderful artistic expression that turning offers you guys, I'm excited and anxious to learn this art!

Oh... I've always wanted a chainsaw :D I think I might be a Husquavarna man though... I used to do Ice sculptures with one of those. Though nothing says testosterone like a Stihl saw :D

[Ray Bell]

The one thing I see a lot, and didn't see mentioned in the other threads is a vacuum system. Very handy.

[Terry Gerros]

I would give some serious thought to the Woodcut Pro-forme Hollowing tool system and Irons Tool Gate. Lets talk about a sweet cutting tool system. Relatively easy learning curve and works like a charm. The tool gate makes it very so easy to control.

[John Keeton]

Rick, I went with the Nova chucks simply because they seem to be available on sale frequently!! They were the first to introduce the 4 jaw scrolling chuck, as I recall, so I think the have the technology downpat. Their stuff is made in China, now, but I have both the New Zealand chuck and the other, and cannot really perceive a difference.

I think my second choice would be the Grizzly - lot of satisfied users.

The Vicmarc and Oneway are more expensive usually, and I don't see them on sale often.

Ray is right on the vacuum system - that should be on the list. Ray and I traded out, and I ended up with his Holdfast system because he didn't feel his compressor would support it. It works great for me, and I would highly recommend it - both for cost, and it is compact and simple to hook up. I don't leave it on the lathe, but it takes me about 2 minutes to get it out of the cabinet and hook it up. Very compact and not much to go wrong.

[Jeff Nicol]

Rick, You will find that over time you will want or have to have just about every woodturning tool and accessory available to complete the new abilities and tasks requested of you after the 3520 arrives. So start with the basics and move to the best of what you can afford, then start over again as new things are developed and marketed to us turners! We are a weak lot with toolaholicism a definite worry, even saying the wood "TOOLS" gets my blood moving!

Have fun with the Mustard machine, you will not regret it!

Jeff

[Paul McGaha]

Congratulations Rick. A major tool purchase.

Hope it does well for you.

[Josh Bowman]

Rick congratulations!
I have the Tormek and considered other options, but came back to the Tormek. You may want something that grinds faster on RARE occasions. For that I got the Tormek bench grinder mount. Now if I need to change the shape of something, I can use the Tormek jigs on the dry grinder. Another advantage to the Tormek IMO is the wet slow grinder just puts an edge back on the tool. You will sharpen often in turning and that can be a savings. Grumbine says it's kept him from grinding away his gouges once a year!
I'm thinking if I could do it over, I'd buy 1/2" and a 3/8" Thompson bowl gouge. I do have the 3/8" and it does really well. Seems to really hold an edge compare to my 1/2" Sorbys. Also get a scraper, skew and parting tool. Again lots of opinions, but the skew will let you cut a very nice tenon for the chuck and the scraper will help you smooth out the bumps and valleys while you learn how to control the gouges. Do understand that as you get better, you can do almost everything with just the gouge.
Lots of opinions on chucks. I like that I have 2, but wish they were the same. I have the nova 2 and the oneway talon. The fit and finish on both are nice. I feel the talon fits my drives threads better.
For hollowing, I can't imagine anything simpler than the Monster articulating arm hollower. Don't do as I did and buy the manual hollowing tools thinking they will help. I never use them. Randy includes ever thing you need with his rig.
Get a good light for the lathe. You may be young enough that it doesn't matter, but the Moffett light does very well and is fairly bullet proof.
Sanding and finishing. Can Vince at vinceswoodnwonders, he will help you through that process. Get a cheap ($29) angle drill. And you're in business. If you want a really nice easy finish, looks at the Beall buffing system.
Something else you might want to consider. Being tried of blowing shavings out my nose! I opted for a powered respirator. Again lots of opions here and options available. I use the Trend Pro and never have any changes in my sinus results from the shop. Some like the 3M other use just a mask, but turning does produce alot of dust. If you want to look at the Trend, Phil Evans is a new wood turner and owns a farm supply store that sells them, he's used them for years on his chicken farm. His home email is csh@highspeedlink.net The powered ones are nice. They keep some air moving and don't fog. They offer impact protection. At first though, I'd just use a mask type, and safety glasses until you're ready or want to move up.
Finally, take some lessons with your new tools and join a local club.
Most of all have fun and you might need a second job to pay for all this stuff!

[Michael James]

Unabashedly diving in! I like that, it shows commitment.:cool:
Welcome to the round side!
mj

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Buy a good chuck and a couple sets of jaws. A mid size chuck like the Talon will do lots of bowl sizes. Get the #2 and #3 jaws. The PM comes with a decent ball bearing dead center. The big cone comes off to expose the more useful cup center with 3/4" threads. Start with basic tools and learn to turn open bowls. The yellow machine is super for bowls because you can move the head stock the right and turn bowl insides from the end of the lathe. That is a back saver.That means removing the tail stock and putting it back a lot. It weighs 58 pounds. That's a back killer. Though you are young and probably plenty strong, after you buy the real necessities, Doc's suggestion about a "swing away" attachment will prove to be a good one. The 3520 is a wonderful machine. Enjoy it.
faust

[bob svoboda]

Congrats and welcome to club mustard. Can't wait for the pic's.

[Rick Markham]

Thanks Y'all!

John, the vacuum chuck is on the to do list as well, as well as building a steady rest.

Faust, thanks for the tips, I will definitely be turning bowls too, and look forward to making a Bonker! The swinging tail stock will come eventually, I'd like to see how some of y'all have made your own, That might be the best option for me, otherwise it's going to be a little farther down the list...

Josh, I am definitely going to stick with the Tormek, I've thought it was worth every penny I spent on it! I'm glad to hear that it's an acceptable option. I actually enjoy sharpening so a little longer grind time isn't a concern. I think I will have to make due with a impact face shield a dual canister mask for now, but down the road the 3M respirators are on the wish list, I've done my research in that area too.

I'm already (as George Wilson coined himself) A "Tool Pig" so this side of woodworking will just enable that addiction even more!

MJ... when I overdo things I really Overdo them :D Talk about really falling off the deep end:eek:

[Alan Trout]

Get you basics. Depending on the depth you want to go with your hollowing will dictate what hollowing rig you want. If you want to do short shallow forms start with the articulated rig. If you want to start with deeper forms start with the more traditional captive rigs such as the standard Monster or Jamison system.

I would start with the a 1/2V Thompson or even the 5/8V gouge a 3/8 thompson spindle gouge. If you want any scrapers the Benjamin's best are pretty good and really cheap. As I only occasionally use scrapers I have several and they work well. Also a 1" skew is nice to have It can be used for not only the typical stuff in spindle turning but can be used for making accurate dovetails for tennons that are held by the chuck.

Any of the major chucks will be fine. Nova, Oneway, Vicmarc, I may be in the minority but I use the smallest chuck that I can get by with. Remember typically if you are doing hollow vessels the chuck just has to drive the piece and not support it because you will have a steady rest supporting the piece. You do not need a big chuck to drive with. Also get several of them for convenience.

I maintain my edges with my Tormek style setup but also have a slow speed grinder for establishing shapes. Saves a ton of time and really nice to have both.

I would forgo at first the Vacuum chuck. I think learning to use a friction and jamb chucks will be you best bet and by far the cheapest option. I would also hold off of the tailstock swinger. You are young and I have no trouble with the 3520 tailstock. It a little heavy and definitely not a gut buster. If you have a bad back that may be a different story.

Well congratulations and good luck.


Alan

[Rick Markham]

Thanks Alan! The vacuum chuck will be a future project! Thanks for the tips on the selection of tools, I will definitely keep them in mind. Ideally I would like to be able to buy both the articulated and the captive monster set ups, there is a substantial savings buying both at once, but that would cut into buying some other tools and more than one chuck, So one will have to wait.

For those of you that own both the articulated and the captive monster set ups, Which one do you find more useful? I'm thinking the articulated one to start, I will be turning smaller hollow forms in the beginning.

The 1" skew I am definitely interested in, I know if you get proficient with a skew there are nearly endless possibilities with it.

OK, here's a question for Y'all, why are most turning tools HSS and not High Carbon steel. If I made my own skew chisel out of O1 tool steel, is there a brittleness issue that I need to be aware of. Some of the more "basic" of tools (excluding complex shapes like gouges) I have the ability to make, harden and temper. Do any of y'all make any of your own tools?

[Alan Trout]

The M2 and others like the A11 steel the Doug uses hold an edge much better and are more resistant to abrasion then the O1.

If you could only have one hollowing rig it would be the standard because you can use it for deep or shallow vessels. It is just not as easy to use as the articulated rig particularly on the smaller items. However if you are just going to do the shorter forms the articulated works better. Be sure to get the swan neck as you will really need it for getting under a shallow top. I think it is about $50.

Good Luck

Alan

[greg a bender]

Rick,

Congrat's on the Mustard!

Had I the money, I would have done that too.

I just got my JET-16-42 and am looking at all the same options you are. Will be following this thread.

FWI- I went with the Super Nova 2 and Cole Jaws. And the EWT tools. As a new turner, seemed like a good idea and a quick way to start making chips.

Good luck!

Greg

[John Keeton]

OK, here's a question for Y'all, why are most turning tools HSS and not High Carbon steel.Rick, there is also the sharpening issue. With your background in metallurgy, that wouldn't be an issue, but with HSS one doesn't have to worry about getting the edge too hot. So far as brittle, I suspect the HSS is much more brittle than the carbon steel.

[Rick Markham]

Alan, Ok, that makes sense as far as the abrasion resistance of the steel, I hadn't considered that. I will definitely get the swan neck when I order the Monster system, I will spend the next couple of days mulling over which one I should get. Research time, and lots of thinking to do.

John, I also hadn't thought about the fact that most turners dry grind and so the heat issue is a big deal, that also makes sense.

Greg I will definitely check out the EWT tools as a way to get started, I'm open to all options. I haven't made a final decision on chucks yet, but the Nova most likely will be the ones I choose, but I do need to consider the Grizzly's and need to do my research on those too. I would like to get at least 2 chucks to start, so the Nova's price is far more attractive than the Oneway's . If ya think of any questions (since your in the same boat as me, as far as getting started) ask away please! You might be thinking about something I haven't considered yet, so ask away!!!

[John Shuk]

Lacer skew and lots of practice. Check out a symposium if you can find one in your area. It can be a fabulous investment.

[Mark Woodmark]

Congrats! I hear Doug Thompson chisels are the best. I dont own any, but intend to buy some when I get the money. My chisels are the Robert Sorbey ones PSI sells

[Clint Baxter]

The Nova chucks are great and I use my regularly, but actually like my Oneway Talon a bit better. I have a little bit more travel in the jaws and am able to hold a larger item with the #3 jaws than the equivalent jaws on the Nova. I have a G3 but it looks like the SuperNova 2 has the same amount of travel.

Hartville Tool has the Oneway items on sale on a fairly regular basis and you're able to find some good deals there on other turning tools as well. Hartville is selling the Talon chuck currently for $205 and throwing in 4 turning DVDs valued at $80 for free. Don't know who's DVDs they are or how good the content is, but don't sound like too bad a deal. You can get the Talon at Craft Supplies for about the same price, just without the DVDs.

The Oneway jaws typically are more aggressive, giving you a better bite on green wood, but depending on the size of the blanks you turn, may not be an issue.

I'm sure that no matter which one you get, it should fill your ticket.

Clint

[Rick Markham]

Thanks Clint, I will definitely check out Hartville tool before I decide!