Cockbeading drawers

[Brian Penning]

I'm going to apply a cockbead some half-blind dovetailed drawers.
I plan on using the router to make the rabbet around the drawer perimeter.
Anyone know how close to the pins the rabbet should be?

How is the cockbead secured on the drawer sides? Drawers are 4.5" high.

Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

[Jay Allen]

It is usually just glued and maybe pinned with a 23ga micro pinner.
I don't really understand what you mean by "how close to the pins" though? Most of the time they cover the side so you don't see anything. Your 'tails are then completely blind.

[steven c newman]

Drawers is done before the dovetails are cut. Otherwise, you may wind up with, maybe< a bead that is 1/8" or less deep. Another option is to apply the beading around the drawer opening, rather than on the drawer itself. Here is one example of appling to the drawer opening.:cool:

[Jeff Monson]

The process I have used on a 1/2 blind dovetail drawer. Complete the drawer as you would normally, use a dado blade and sacrificial fence to remove the depth of the cockbead. On the top and bottom cuts you can remove the whole width of the drawer front, usually 3/4" or whatever the thickness of the front is. On the drawer sides, only remove to within 1/16" of the tail sockets, this will keep the drawer side and dovetail looking normal. Its really hard to see the cockbead from the sides, and impossible to see from the top or bottom. I use mitre cuts on the corners of the cockbead. I can take a couple photos if you would like, its not difficult and looks great.

BTW, I just glue the cockbead onto the tops and sides, clamp or tape in place.

[Frank Drew]

The method I've seen on older work, and this is the method I've used, is that the top piece of cock beading is full width of the drawer thickness but the side (and sometimes bottom) pieces only run to the depth of where the dovetails begin... I've never seen cock beading which covers the dovetailing. The side cockbeading miters into the top and bottom pieces, but it's a stopped miter at the top (and bottom, if full width) since the side beadings are only about half as wide as to the top/bottom beadings. The unmitered part of the top beading is cut flush with the drawer side.

Glue and a few fine brads, particularly on the sides where the beading is glued to the drawer front's end grain. Predrill the holes, though, since those side beadings are very narrow.

I always cut the rabbet after the drawer was glued up; -- I've used a tablesaw with the drawer standing up, but a router and other methods would also work fine.

[Just saw Jeff's posting; so, what he said.]

Traditionally, I believe cock beading was only used on veneered drawer fronts, to protect the veneer edges from chipping.

[Jeff Monson]

The method I've seen on older work, and this is the method I've used, is that the top piece of cock beading is full width of the drawer thickness but the side (and sometimes bottom) pieces only run to the depth of where the dovetails begin... I've never seen cock beading which covers the dovetailing. The side cockbeading miters into the top and bottom pieces, but it's a stopped miter at the top (and bottom, if full width) since the side beadings are only about half as wide as to the top/bottom beadings. The unmitered part of the top beading is cut flush with the drawer side.

Glue and a few fine brads, particularly on the sides where the beading is glued to the drawer front's end grain. Predrill the holes, though, since those side beadings are very narrow.

I always cut the rabbet after the drawer was glued up; -- I've used a tablesaw with the drawer standing up, but a router and other methods would also work fine.

[Just saw Jeff's posting; so, what he said.]

Traditionally, I believe cock beading was only used on veneered drawer fronts, to protect the veneer edges from chipping.

Frank, you have a much better way to put the process into words than I do :o

[Frank Drew]

Frank, you have a much better way to put the process into words than I do :o

I don't know, Jeff; by the time I was done typing I didn't know if I'd made any sense at all :cool:.

[Brian Jarnell]

Friend who hand dovetailed a kitchen full of drawers, always complained what a waste of time it was after he covered with cock beads.

I find a 4 knife head in spindle moulder does quite a good job.

[Conrad Fiore]

Brian,
Here is an article. http://jimnevins.net/woodworking/Fine%20Woodworking/contents/1997/110123038.PDF
and a photo. The rabbet usually goes right up to the edge of the pins.

[Brian Jarnell]

Brian,
Here is an article. http://jimnevins.net/woodworking/Fine%20Woodworking/contents/1997/110123038.PDF
and a photo. The rabbet usually goes right up to the edge of the pins.

That is what he should have done.

But he managed to cover all with bead, silly boy.

[Dino Drosas]

Most all of the pieces that I make are for myself and the rest as gifts; so I do the cock beads to suit me at the time. Mostly I have done them as Frank describes; but the last chest I made, I used 1/2" wide bead all the way around the drawer with the drawer face thickness being 3/4". You be the judge.

[Norman Hitt]

Just me, I guess, but I don't care at all for the second one. Looks weird, ('course, maybe it's ME that's weird, and not the Cockbead).:D

[Eiji Fuller]

I like the curly cockbead. Really nice!

[Brian Penning]

Thanks guys. Very helpful.
Don't see the reason for the top bead being full width if you're using the same wood -other than maybe the glue line showing or using a different wood?

[Jay Allen]

Thanks guys. Very helpful.
Don't see the reason for the top bead being full width if you're using the same wood -other than maybe the glue line showing or using a different wood?

That is exactly why I prefer the comppetly covered method. I don't like the look of the "partially" covered in either case.
If you do a thiner piece on the top and bottom, you have gained an unnecessary seam.
If you do full width top and bottom and only partial on the ends, you get an odd combination of a miter and end grain.

Where as full width covers everything. So you can do it before the dovetailing and let them show, or you can rabbet the front and cover them completely.

[David Werkheiser]

I've done a lot of beaded face frame jobs over the years, but never applied cockbead on drawers. I have often wondered how do you keep the miters from opening up when the drawer expands and contracts from seasonal changes?
David

[Brian Penning]

Finished this project and below is the final result of doing the beading for the 1st time.
Very pleased with the finished result.
Wasn't all that difficult to do either. I made the bead the same depth/width all the way around. Used the router to cut the rabbet.
Again, the tips I received helped quite a bit.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/TQLbpDBQZlI/AAAAAAAAgDI/UprSQ5aLaR4/s512/IMG_4398.JPG

Finished project (need a new camera)

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/TQLbpdnAw4I/AAAAAAAAgDQ/kcGzFmcLGyY/s640/IMG_4400.JPG

[Brian Jarnell]

I've done a lot of beaded face frame jobs over the years, but never applied cockbead on drawers. I have often wondered how do you keep the miters from opening up when the drawer expands and contracts from seasonal changes?
David
We are only talking of a small area, and most unlikely to have a problem in that area, at least in my experience.

[Brian Penning]

I've done a lot of beaded face frame jobs over the years, but never applied cockbead on drawers. I have often wondered how do you keep the miters from opening up when the drawer expands and contracts from seasonal changes?
David

A few of the members mentioned that it shouldn't be a concern if the drawers aren't too high.

[Brian Jarnell]

A few of the members mentioned that it shouldn't be a concern if the drawers aren't too high.
I have to climb a ladder to my cock beaded drawers, do you think I might have a problem?

[Brian Penning]

I have to climb a ladder to my cock beaded drawers, do you think I might have a problem?

umm...errrr....well, yes if the bottom of the drawer is near the floor...;)