What is the secret to using Mylands

[Gerald McGrantham]

I use Mylands cellulose sanding sealer, but not very well. Every time I use it, it leaves streaks in the finish.

I put some Mylands on a lint free rag and put it on my turning with the lathe off. I put more Mylands on a rag and continue doing that until the turning is covered. Then I buff it with a clean rag, but it looks like crap! :mad:

What do I have to do, pour the whole can onto the turning to get it to work right?

Somebody PLEASE let me in on the secret?

This stuff sure stinks up the shop. I have to open the front and back doors to air out the shop when I am done. I do use a proper respirator when I use Mylands.

Thanks in advance,
Gerald

[John Keeton]

I have never used the stuff, but it is a lacquer based product so it will dry very quickly. Wonder if it would work to do a quick application while on the lathe, then buff with steel wool while on the lathe? I don't think you should expect a "finish" from a sealer. You are just preparing the wood for the finish.

I have used Behen's vinyl sealer at the suggestion of fellow creeker, David Woodruff. David does some phenomenal work, and his finish is flawless. I was very pleased with the manner in which it went on, and the smoothness of the application. You may want to try it.

Perhaps some of the pen makers use Mylands and can help.

[David T gray]

i've never gotten mylands to work well on larger items 3''>

[Gerald McGrantham]

Hello John,

I didn't mean finish, poor wording, I meant to type sealer, but finish appeared. Funny how that happens.

I use the sealer and it streaks. I just want to prevent the streaking from happening. It does show through the wax finish I use.

Gerald

[willis martin]

Gerald Mylands sanding sealer works well for me .I cut the sanding sealer with a lacquer thinner about 50 /50 .that works for me Willis:)

[Chris Colman]

I use Mylands sealer quite a lot. It works well for me, especially on porous woods.

I apply plenty of it with a piece of paper towel, thoroughly flooding the surface and adding more where it soaks in.

I usually apply it on the lathe and have the dust collector running. That takes the smell away from my nose and the moving air helps the sealer dry quickly.

I then give the piece a good rub-down with some fine steel wool. Not enough to take the sealer off, but enough to even out the surface and it feels smooth. It only takes a couple of seconds.

A good rub-down with a clean cloth to snag any steel wool fibers and it is ready to finish. It is usually dry by this time.

[Don Alexander]

its called SANDING sealer for a reason........... you are supposed to apply it then sand the piece ; the purpose of it is to help fill porous grain / or places where you get some grain tear out ,

try this ........... do your initial sanding pass first (i typically use 150 grit for this) then apply the sand sealer , use it liberally on areas that soak it up and less liberally on areas that don't ; then i resand with the 150 grit (you will load the paper quickly at this point) keep using fresh area of your sand paper, get a new piece when that one is loaded up and use sand paper like its free , sand with this grit until the sand paper is loading with sawdust and not gumming up from the sealer ; i then go to 220 grit and sand again after the initial sanding with 220 grit check to see if you have spots that need more sealer if so apply and sand again with 220 grit
repeat these steps for each grit you are using until the spots that need the sealer no longer need it (typically i end up sanding with 150 grit, 220 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit and 600 grit and then rub it out with micro mesh 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000 usually by the time i get done with the 320 grit sand paper i no longer need to apply anymore sand sealer)

once you have it sanded to your satisfaction then move on to finish of your choice HTH :)

[Art Kelly]

I just brush it on quickly. On small pieces like stoppers and ornaments, I use an acid brush. It dries so quickly it seems like it would make a mess if you tried to work it with a cloth or paper towel. (Since I never tried that, I can speak freely.;))

Anyway, after it dries for an hour (to be safe in my humid climate), I sand it or use 0000 steel wool to make a smooth surface, leaving the sealer visible only in the pores of open-grain wood or remove it almost completely on closed-grain wood.

Then Beall or lacquer or WOP. I think sometimes I may even use Danish, then Beall over the sanded-out Mylands.

The point is, most of it is removed before I finish.

Art

Mylands SS also works well to prevent CA from staining the surrounding wood if you are making a repair. I finally learned to coat the entire piece, even if I am making just a local repair, to keep the treatment of the piece uniform. (Complete coating is also a good idea for me because I think thin CA actually runs uphill in my shop:mad:.)

[Bernie Weishapl]

I don't have any problems with Mylands. I do pretty much as Don does but the first grit which is generally 150 grit I apply the sanding sealer that has been thinned 50/50. After that grit it goes on straight with no thinning sanded with 220. I don't much go above this grit. I have never seen a need to.

[Michael Mills]

I have had the same thing happen with their friction polish (shellac). I just dampen a paper towel in DNA (lacquer thinner in your case) and apply with the lathe running. It immediately melts the "rings" and eliminates that step of sanding. I then go over it with steel wool and recoat. I believe it is caused by leaving the application cloth too long in one spot, if I keep it moving the rings usually do not appear.

[Bill Buchanan IN]

Gerald: My only negative result w/ Mylands sealer was a result of too much applied, then trying to rub it in while it dries, Beacuse it dries quickly, try a quick rub in then leave it alone until it dries. Rubbing it around while it is drying is probably causing the streaking.