Router Table Question

[Galen Nagen]

I would like to make a router table with an mdf top. I am going to skip the insert plate. I have read about persons build a router table and used cross rails/ stretchers to support the router top. I would use threaded inserts or steel dowels to attach the table top to the rails/stretchers.

Would it be best to build the cross rails/stretchers out of 3/4 inch baltic birch as long as it is very flat on the edge or use a hardwood?

I hope I have written this clear enough so you folks can understand.

Thanks

GN

[Steven J Corpstein]

Take a look at Pat Warner's site and in particular the link below. Pat very much subscribes to the "no cutout school", and he should know!

http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html

[Galen Nagen]

Wow. Somewhat like what I was thinking. Ha. He uses hardwood. Seems like baltic birch would be better (used on edge) but I certainly don't know as much as this fellow.

KR

[glenn bradley]

I have used hardwood in the past and am using baltic birch now. The main supports are 3/4" baltic birch on edge as you describe but, two layers thick. I have had no issues with either material. The problem I once had was inadequate support. I currently do not allow an unsupported span of more than 8 to 10 inches. I had a span of 16 inches on a previous table and that is where the table sagged.

[Jim O'Dell]

I used 3/4" Oak ply for the grid for my RT. Grid is 6" X 8" roughly. Very stable and has worked well. The top is 2 layers of 3/4" MDF, so when I cut in for my lift, I had plenty of meat under it to hold it and the PC7518 router and stay flat. I've had no problems at all. Laminate on top and the sides, 3 coats of water based poly on the bottom. Jim.

[Galen Nagen]

How do you attach the grid/ supports? Screws through the top?

Thanks

GN