First attempt at Dovetails

[Paul A. Clark]

Here is my first try at dovetails.
Japanese pullsaw and a sliding bevel

[Tri Hoang]

Very good for a first try...my was much worse. Congrats!

[john brenton]

That slope is so minimal it's more like a finger joint. You might benefit from a dovetail marker, you can spend money on a fancy one or just make your own.

10,000 times better than my first dovetail. I think I used a whole tub of wood filler on my first project...but of course it was a small desk with drawers, every joint dovetailed. I just decided to learn how to do dovetails while working. You can definitely tell where I started.


Here is my first try at dovetails.
Japanese pullsaw and a sliding bevel

[Paul A. Clark]

Thanks, Tri.

John your right, it does look like a finger joint. I was watching a Cosman video, and said "I think I will give that a try."

My wish list includes a LN DT saw or a Cosman. I have used an LN but not a Cosman. Not sure the Cosman is $120 better.

How would you go about making a marker?

[John A. Callaway]

the 1:6 is a 90 degree intersect, the horizontal is one inch long, the vertical is six inches long. connect the two ends to make a triangle, and that angled line is the 1:6 dovetail angle... the 1:8 is done the same way. just draw them on your bench and set your bevel gauge to the lines.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=149785

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I am impressed Paul...

[bradley strong]

Paul,

I recently started hand cutting dovetails as well. I learned from Rob Cosman's videos. I wanted to eliminate as much of the trial and error process as possible, so I bought his saw, marking gauge, dovetail marker, etc. I'm glad I did because it eliminated wasted time and money buying tools that don't work well. I follow his method exactly as well. Using proven tools and methods provides the quickest path to success with the least frustration.

Rob's saw is hand made and is designed so that beginners can use it successfully. The composite handle may not be pretty, but it gives the extra weight and, more importantly, the balance necessary to control it. I can see from your first joints that the saw you used wandered while cutting. A quality saw won't do that.

Cutting dovetails takes some practice. Using the right tools and methods from the start eliminates variables like a saw that wanders while cutting and ensures that all you need is practice.

Good luck,

Brad

PS: The picture is of my 6th or 7th practice joint. Not quite perfect, but it's not too bad if I do say so myself. It was made saw cut to saw cut with no repairs or filler.

[Josh Rudolph]

Here is my first try at dovetails.
Japanese pullsaw and a sliding bevel

Paul,

DT looks great for a first! Keep your chisels sharp and cut to the line and they will get even better.

I am on my 12th of 30 practice dovetails I hope to do before Christmas. I had done a few before this practice 30, but I decided to draw the line and say this is where I am serious and started practicing. It is amazing to see the transformation that comes so quickly. I tried Cosman's method and it works fine. It is ideal for the show dovetails. It just takes a while to dial it in and lay everything out.
I have since switched over to Klausz' method of pins first. Minimal layout and great results. I was chopping out all of the waste, but tried cutting out the waste with a coping saw last night. My result was the best joint yet. So I will try using the coping saw on the next couple to determine which approach I like better.
So for drawers I will likely stick with pins first. For a box or carcase I will likely layout and use the tails first method.
I have even tried a few different saws from stuff from the borg to a LN...all have given me the same results. So I can't say a premium saw is needed to cut good dovetails. I personally now use the LV DT saw. I believe the most important aspect of a saw is the grip. As long as the steel is not complete junk, it can be filed to a different profile to work better for you.

Keep up the good work and keep practicing!

Josh