crown molding dilemma

[Kent Parker]

I have been slowly, over a few years, been reframing the doorways in my house with crown molding.

The doorway openings have had enough space on either side to allow for the design in the first photo however, I have come to a few of the doorways with little space at either side of the opening.

Is there a traditional way to finish off the top? Run the crown out to the wall sides without the end miter? Seems funky. Perhaps do without the top crown?

I'm fishing here....

KP

[Norman Hitt]

You might try cutting a piece of crown to a length that gives you a spacing you would like at each end to the wall and hold it in place so the 45* on each end still line up with the top corners of the door opening like they do on the other doors, and then measure the width of the door molding that would fit between the crown and the setback and rip all three facings that width. Who knows, but it "MIGHT" provide an acceptable look in those Tight spaces.:confused:

[David Thompson 27577]

Cut all three pieces of crown -- the main piece, and both returns. Assemble them on your workbench. Use 23ga pins and glue, or use no metal fasteners -- just glue.

Measure the space available, and cut the assembly appropriately, cutting equal lengths from each end. Hopefully, you'll only be cutting a bit off of each return.

If you don't get the fit exactly right, you can eith cut it again, or use a bit of caulk in the gaps.

[Lex Boegen]

I agree with David--assemble the top piece on the workbench and install it in place as a finished piece. To get an accurate measurement of the space, I would put a pencil mark at about the mid-point of the top clamshell molding, then measure from each wall to that mark and add the two measurements together. Some trim carpenters even completely assemble the mitered casing on the workbench (where it's easier to clamp and glue the mitered corners), and then put it in place on the door and nail it in.

[Kent Parker]

I have been making the crown and parting bead section in the shop and priming it before installation. The returns stick out about 1 1/2" from the outer edge of the vertical flat molding. The available space I have to work with is about 3" (for return and vertical flat molding). I could lop off a bit of the return or not have a return and just run the crown out to the wall sides. I'll have to practice to see what works visually. Thanks for the ideas.

Cheers,

Kent

[Josiah Bartlett]

I have pretty much exactly the same design concept going in my historic house. Where there wasn't space to finish the wrap of the crown, the original carpenter made it look like the wall was installed and plastered after the trim was installed (in one case, it was).

[Thomas Bank]

Is there a traditional way to finish off the top? Run the crown out to the wall sides without the end miter?

My 1920s Bungalow has a narrow hallway where the crown molding runs flush into the walls on either side. So I guess that is a vote for the "traditional" way of doing it - or at least one "traditional" way of doing it.

177535

Also, the door to the basement stair is too near an outside corner - the crown molding would stick out past the corner. So the molding wraps around the corner.

177536