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View Full Version : Elbo tool vs. Monster -hollowing system



Roger Chandler
11-22-2010, 9:15 PM
With the economy being what it is, and there is always a necessity to think about how one lets go of the dollars they have for a hobby.......

I have a question as to the Elbo Hollowing system and how it may rate up against the Monster system?

Pluses for the elbo...it attaches to the quill, so no stand needed, and it now comes with a 3/4" boring bar that is 13" long and will accept several type cutters.

The monster is highly spoken of here.......cost is over $300.00 more with the laser than the elbo with the laser.

I wonder if it is better by far than the Elbo system? Anyone who has used both on this forum and could lend some objective information?

A hollowing rig is definitely in my crosshairs in the near future.

David E Keller
11-22-2010, 10:12 PM
No experience with the elbo, but the tailstock attachment is a potential downside for me... I use the monster set at different angles on the ways to allow for more versatility while hollowing. I'm not sure that's possible with the elbo. With that said, I doubt you'd be disappointed with either as they're both likely a huge improvement over handheld tools.

Richard Madden
11-22-2010, 10:19 PM
What about making your own hollowing rig? With the help from William Bolen, I made mine. Works good and the price was hard to beat.

Roger Chandler
11-22-2010, 10:19 PM
[QUOTE=David E Keller; I use the monster set at different angles on the ways to allow for more versatility while hollowing. I'm not sure that's possible with the elbo. [/QUOTE]

David,

That offset on the ways to increase the angle is something I never considered. Something to think about though.......Thanks!

Roger Chandler
11-22-2010, 10:23 PM
What about making your own hollowing rig? With the help from William Bolen, I made mine. Works good and the price was hard to beat.


Richard,

I'm all ears........if someone has a picture and maybe a parts list, or instructions.........I would be happy to look at them. It does not look that complicated, but my metal working capability is small, but it may not require much in the way of tools????:confused:

charlie knighton
11-22-2010, 10:47 PM
i have not used both

the elbo is normally placed 24 inches from end of hf to tailstock, ocassionly i might move it forward to get a sharper angle

the end of the quill's surface will get scartched and sort of rust a little, it would be nice to have a set screw to tighten to the quill because the wider your hf is the more torque you will have......5 and 6 inch wide hf help the lift your form will have.... John Jordan did a 9 inch hf....but he does not use the elbo or the monster.....he has his own brand of tools :D:p

Bill Bolen
11-22-2010, 10:47 PM
Roger: Making your own elbo style rig is pretty simple. All you really need to be able to do is drill some straight holes and tap some threads. I'd LOVE to have the monster but the $$ saved is going for more turning related goodies. I posted a pic of my home made "steel snake" and have photo's of several other versions. If you would like more info let me know.. By the way just google steel snake and you can find a bunch of threads about them...Bill..

Bernie Weishapl
11-22-2010, 10:58 PM
Roger I used the elbo at a demo and didn't like it being hooked to the tailstock. The monster with it's stand can be moved around and is more versatile. IMHO being able to move it around for more angles to work on a piece.

Roger Chandler
11-22-2010, 11:00 PM
Roger: Making your own elbo style rig is pretty simple. All you really need to be able to do is drill some straight holes and tap some threads. I'd LOVE to have the monster but the $$ saved is going for more turning related goodies. I posted a pic of my home made "steel snake" and have photo's of several other versions. If you would like more info let me know.. By the way just google steel snake and you can find a bunch of threads about them...Bill..


William,

Thanks for replying.......how does it attach to the quill? From the picture it looks like it might have some sort of morse taper in the quill? I will do a google search as you mentioned.

Maybe you could tell me where to find the metal......is it hollow or solid?

Richard Madden
11-22-2010, 11:14 PM
As Bill said, it's not that difficult. I made mine a little different from Bill's, instead of using the tailstock quill, I made a post that clamps to the bed ways. I have a Nova 1624-44 without additional extensions, so I have about 24" bed length. I wanted to be able to cantilever beyond the bed length if necessary.
168054

Roger Chandler
11-22-2010, 11:16 PM
Roger I used the elbo at a demo and didn't like it being hooked to the tailstock. The monster with it's stand can be moved around and is more versatile. IMHO being able to move it around for more angles to work on a piece.


Thanks for the info Bernie........I appreciate it, it may help me decide which way to go. :)

Roger Chandler
11-22-2010, 11:19 PM
As Bill said, it's not that difficult. I made mine a little different from Bill's, instead of using the tailstock quill, I made a post that clamps to the bed ways. I have a Nova 1624-44 without additional extensions, so I have about 24" bed length. I wanted to be able to cantilever beyond the bed length if necessary.
168054


Richard,

I like the looks of this with the post and clamps. I do not have a welder, so it might prove a little beyond my ability........I do know someone who does however, and I am sure he would rig up something for me, if I asked.

Richard Madden
11-22-2010, 11:21 PM
Roger, I just sent you a PM.

charlie knighton
11-22-2010, 11:22 PM
how does it attach to the quill


Roger, it clamps to the quill and you just tighten the bolts up, it does slip some when you have a wide diameter hf, but you just retighten, its not dangerous or anything

it is possible to hollow say 10 inches, but the normal hollowing depth is 6 to 8 inches, otherwise you do not have anything to grip

Bill Bolen
11-23-2010, 11:45 AM
Roger I was helping Larry Wood make a setup similar to the monster mount. Larry simply used a 5/8 threaded rod held in place by two bolts to a bed mount plate. No welding required. I believe he also used solid 1" aluminum stock for the arms although I used solid soft steel avaliable thru fastenal. These are a few photo's he sent me after completing his system...Bill...

Steve Vaughan
11-23-2010, 1:08 PM
I've learned a lot from this thread - thanks to all!