What should I use for a Router table plate?

[Bob Schulz]

Just finished up on my NYWS Router table. Since my PC 690 is sort of underpowered for a table mounted router. I am looking to pick up one of those 3 1/4 Freuds this Black Friday. Im not finding any plates that are drilled for the 3000 so it looks like I may have to buy a blank.

What are some good suggestions on what to get for a plate on a Freud
3000vce?

Just a newbie
Bob

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r30/Baalz/IMG_0185.jpg

[Lee Schierer]

I would avoid aluminum as the weight of that router may bow the plate. I have a Freud FT200 and use a phenolic table insert. It doesn't seem to sag.http://www.woodpeck.com/media/main_tlrphenolicplate.jpg I like the adjustable insert capability and ability to used my Freud router collars.

[glenn bradley]

Our preferences come from our experiences. Not to be contrary but, I would recommend aluminum. I guess because I have never had a problem with one. I have had a few things sag but, never an aluminum plate. My Milwaukee 5625 was enough of a load to make my 3/4" MDF router top sag but the 1/4" Rockler plate stayed true.

Many of the items we use come in varying quality levels. I've had the The Woodpecker phenolic plate Lee shows in my hands and it appears to be top notch. The ones from Harbor Freight, not so much :D. I have only used the smaller (8" x 11" or so) Rockler 1/4" aluminum plates. The larger ones may have issues at 1/4" (?).

[David Thompson 27577]

..............What are some good suggestions on what to get for a plate............

For several years, I used a router table that I made myself -- including the plate. One of the biggest frustrations was that both the table and the plate would sag after a few years of holding a heavy router (mine was the Hitachi M12, but any of the beefy 3HP routers would have the same problem, even though my table was 1-1/2" thick).

So, my suggestion is to get/make/use two separate plates. One with the router in it. Mount that one in the table when you need it. And another that is just a substitute -- a flat plate that can be in your table, while the router-and-plate sit on a shelf in the corner of your shop.

This eliminates the possibility of the router causing any sagging, regardless of the construction of your table.

[Wayne Hendrix]

For several years, I used a router table that I made myself -- including the plate. One of the biggest frustrations was that both the table and the plate would sag after a few years of holding a heavy router (mine was the Hitachi M12, but any of the beefy 3HP routers would have the same problem, even though my table was 1-1/2" thick).

So, my suggestion is to get/make/use two separate plates. One with the router in it. Mount that one in the table when you need it. And another that is just a substitute -- a flat plate that can be in your table, while the router-and-plate sit on a shelf in the corner of your shop.

This eliminates the possibility of the router causing any sagging, regardless of the construction of your table.

Thats basically what I do. I use an aluminum plate and pull the motor out of the fixed base when not in use.

[Chip Lindley]

Aluminum for me! The 9.25"x11.75" plate on my JessEm lift is 3/8" aluminum, supported on all four sides by the table's lip. (I would not trust those corner brackets sold for router inserts) If incorrectly supported, a particle board table can easily sag, but No Way I can see 3/8" aluminum sagging over time--even with the big P-C 7518 hanging beneath.

[Josiah Bartlett]

You can always take an aluminum plate to a machine shop and have it surfaced flat on their cylinder head grinding machine if you need to- if you do it with the router bolted onto it it will be better than just about anything else.

[Dave Houseal]

I just went through this exact same process. I needed an insert plate and ended up with a router lift. I actually found a used Woodpecker PRL for $100 so I consider myself lucky very lucky on that front.

However, a plate is going to run you anywhere from $60 to $100 anyway, and Woodpeckers has the PRL on sale for $199. If you can afford it, those lifts are fantastic!!! For only $100 more, I'd at least think about it.

[Neil Brooks]

I just went through this exact same process. I needed an insert plate and ended up with a router lift. I actually found a used Woodpecker PRL for $100 so I consider myself lucky very lucky on that front.

However, a plate is going to run you anywhere from $60 to $100 anyway, and Woodpeckers has the PRL on sale for $199. If you can afford it, those lifts are fantastic!!! For only $100 more, I'd at least think about it.

Ayyyyyyy-men.

I'm on about day eight with mine.

It's a thing of wonder, joy, and beauty.

To short-circuit the eventual (and very reasonable) comment ... if I were doing it again (and didn't already have the router table and Milwaukee 5625-20 router), I surely would consider a shaper :)

[Victor Robinson]

I have tried a couple different plates for my router tables, including Rockler's aluminum plate, Woodpecker's phenolic and aluminum, and the Incra aluminum magnalock plate.

All were good plates, but the main difference between them is the mechanism for changing the inserts, which can be an issue if you are frequently changing between general bit sizes.

Rockler uses two small screws to hold the plastic insert in place. Woodpeckers uses a twist-lock system to hold its plastic rings in place. You use a special "spanner wrench" to tighten and untighten the ring.
Incra uses a magnetic system to snap its metal rings in place. I found this to be by far the quickest method of the three.

It's probably splitting hairs, but it made a difference for me... :)

[Dave Houseal]

Oh, and btw, you're router station looks fantastic Bob! Well done :D

[Neil Brooks]

Oh, and btw, you're router station looks fantastic Bob! Well done :D

Oh, ... yeah :o

Amen to that, too. There may be better designs for a router station than Norm's, but ... probably not by much, and ... his is just a classic.

Very nicely done !

[Jay Allen]

I have the black "Bench Dog" plate on my Triton router. It has been there for more than 2 years 24-7 365.

I have never heard of an aluminum plate sagging though?
Phenolic or Acrylic? yes, never aluminum

[Jaze Derr]

Don't have any suggestions on the router plate, as I've been wondering the same thing myself, but that cabinet sure looks nice. good job!

Now, come make me one? :)

[Jim O'Dell]

Except for the 2 weeks my plate was in for repair, my PC7518 motor has hung from my Woodpecker PRL (version 1) in the table for a little over 3 years now. No sag at all, in the wood or the plate. Phenolic may do just as well, but for me, 3/8" aluminum works just fine. Jim.

[Darcy Forman]

I have the Incra master lift 3/8" aluminum plate. Never take my makita router out of it and it has never sagged. Never heard of a 3/8" aluminum plate sagging. I am building my own table. The top is made of 1 1/2" MDF with laminate top and bottom. Under this I built a cross brace frame out of 3/4" x 2" oak cross braced at a min of every 10". Extra cross braceing around the router and mounting plate. Yes EVERYTHING I build is over built. The cabinet which is not done yet is very heavy duty as well. With my router the top and cabinet less drawers and not quite all the sheeting it weights in at about 100 pounds. The top and cabinet is fairly large at 32"x48"

[Lewis Cobb]

I have the Incra master lift 3/8" aluminum plate. Never take my makita router out of it and it has never sagged. Never heard of a 3/8" aluminum plate sagging. I am building my own table. The top is made of 1 1/2" MDF with laminate top and bottom. Under this I built a cross brace frame out of 3/4" x 2" oak cross braced at a min of every 10". Extra cross braceing around the router and mounting plate. Yes EVERYTHING I build is over built. The cabinet which is not done yet is very heavy duty as well. With my router the top and cabinet less drawers and not quite all the sheeting it weights in at about 100 pounds. The top and cabinet is fairly large at 32"x48"

Darcy -

Greetings from out east in New Brunswick. If you have a chance to shoot some pics and pop them up here, I'd like to see your progress. The size you have is close to what I have been thinking about as well as the lift.

Cheers,
Lewis

[Brian Libby]

I work in the aluminum industry and the only way a piece the size of a router plate could sag is #1. the plate was too thin (a 1/4 inch or less) or #2 it was supported from the 4 corners only.

[hank dekeyser]

3/8" polycarbonate is my standard plate of choice. I have yet to "buy" a router table plate. c'mon now I just don't get it. Look in the yellow pages for someone that sells plastics locally - walk in the door and ask if they have any drops or scraps of 3/8 polcarbonate. while you're at it get some 1/8" high density pvc or similar. Tell them what you need it for and they can recommend something suitable they have available. The 1/8" stock is for zero clearance inserts. Cut your plate to size and hole saw the center to the throat diameter of your router. Use a 3/8 rabbet bit set to 1/8 thickness for the inserts. machine the inserts to fit- done. I have 4 plates for 4 different routers. saves me hours of set-up time.

[Bob Schulz]

Thanks for all the comments. I am sort of a perfectionist when I do things.

I decided on a Kreg insert plate. Dont ask me why I choose that particular one. Maybe because it didn't have holes all over it. Haven't installed it yet, hoping to do it this weekend.

Bob

[Dave Houseal]

Thanks for all the comments. I am sort of a perfectionist when I do things.

I decided on a Kreg insert plate. Dont ask me why I choose that particular one. Maybe because it didn't have holes all over it. Haven't installed it yet, hoping to do it this weekend.

Bob

Don't forget you'll have to post the after pictures of the completed cabinet and top too :D

[Darcy Forman]

Lewis here are the pictures you requested. I still have lots of work to do. Hopefully I can get the cabinet finished after Christmas.