Cabinet questions....

[Clisby Clark]

I'm starting soon on some kitchen cabinets. I want to use inset drawers with Blum Tandem slides. I'm planning on an applied beaded faceframe to add a little character. After saying all that, there are a few details I'm not sure on and would appreciate informed comments.

1. On drawer base units, do you use horizontal dividers like one would use on overlay drawers? Why or why not? I've seen it done both ways.

2. On very shallow doors (silverware, etc) do you use solid drawer fronts and then use frame and panel drawer fronts on the deeper drawers?

3. When using inset drawers with the Blum tandem slides, do you find it necessary to use the special locks Blum recommends for insets or are the standard locks adjustable enough?

4. Is the Blum Tandem drilling jig necessary or worth the extra money or do you just drill by eye?

Thanks for all comments.

[Steve Griffin]

I'm starting soon on some kitchen cabinets. I want to use inset drawers with Blum Tandem slides. I'm planning on an applied beaded faceframe to add a little character. After saying all that, there are a few details I'm not sure on and would appreciate informed comments.

1. On drawer base units, do you use horizontal dividers like one would use on overlay drawers? Why or why not? I've seen it done both ways.

2. On very shallow doors (silverware, etc) do you use solid drawer fronts and then use frame and panel drawer fronts on the deeper drawers?

3. When using inset drawers with the Blum tandem slides, do you find it necessary to use the special locks Blum recommends for insets or are the standard locks adjustable enough?

4. Is the Blum Tandem drilling jig necessary or worth the extra money or do you just drill by eye?

Thanks for all comments.

1)this is both a style and function question. Dividers look better for more traditional styles--more like furniture. But they also add construction time and cost storage space. If you are beading your faceframe, I would for sure use horizontal dividers. They can be as small as 1" with the bead and still look nice. I always back them with a 3 or 4" plywood stretcher for strength--you don't want a toddler or drunk to crash into a cabinet and break an unsupported face frame member.

2)I often use solid drawer faces entirely. If framed, never on drawers less than say 6", and that is if you use narrow rails. Depending on your frame design, you probably will have a "no mans land" of drawer height which is too small for framing, but too big for solid...personally I like solid faces with an already busy beaded face frame...

3)those "special" locks will save you some adjustment time, but I don't usually bother with them. Build your drawers well, build your cabinets square and locate your slides perfectly with a home built jig using two screws. Worse come to worse, you can always move a slide in or out a little, since they give you about 40 mounting holes to work with...

4) After hundreds of tandems installed, I still haven't bothered with the jig, though I really should get it someday. Insert the drawer, give it a tap, and you will see a nice little mark in the back where you need to drill. I use a 5mm bit with a stop to drill this hole.

-Steve

[Matthew Bradburn]

1. I like to use at least one divider, I like to think it helps keep the plywood in line. It's also about the look you're going for, of course.

2. I use solid drawer fronts for anything 6" or less in height.

3. I really like the specially-for-inset locking devices. You could get by with the regular ones if you were pinching every penny.

4. You can live without... I've drilled for the locking devices using a vix bit, and I've drilled the holes in the drawer backs by pressing the drawer back against the... "fingers"... to make a mark and then drilling on the mark.