How do you use a sheetrock screwgun???

[Greg Urwiller]

I'm not having good luck today putting up sheetrock. Been years since I put any up and I'm trying to finish my new shop today. Couldn't find my old drill type dimpler that I used to have, go I bought a new one. Only doing a 24'x28' room so I figure $9 would be better than $90. I absolutely could not get it adjusted to work reliably. So...went to HD and picked up the Ridgid screwgun for $80. And the same thing happens. One screw will go in perfect, the next one ratchets out just proud of the surface. Can't seem to get any in right along the bevel edge, might as well use my drill. I'm having a heck of a time here!! Whats the secret? I try to drive the screws in straight with my body right behind the gun. That works the best, but my gosh, you've got move for every single screw. What do I need to try?? Thanks. Greg

[johnny means]

Unfortunately, it's one of those tools that requires finesse. Like using a framing hammer, it takes a little time to get the hang of it.

[Dave Zellers]

Set the tip to the recessed depth you want and push hard when you are driving the screw. Let the clutch do it's job.

[jason margeson]

yep . gotta push hard. And make sure to hold the drywall tite to the strapping, or youll get weird sink depths and/or pops later

[rick carpenter]

You don't necessarily have to push hard, just very firmly and right in line with the bit. I have a Senco unit that I like but I have to use it zackly right. I have to start the trigger before pressing into the sheetrock, so a rhythm in using it works well. Even then, it's easy to spin the bits and dull/burn them, so I keep some spares handy.

[Jerome Stanek]

I start and lock my trigger on and just feed and push with the palm.

[Tom Rick]

It's tough when you don't use one all the time.
I used to hang enough rock that it was a no brainer- 'just do it'!

Ha- 20 years later I have to rock the shop and buy a nice Rigid dry wall gun and think I am good to go.
Nope- frustratingly few sink in with that satisfying pop of a perfect set.....
Off angle, too low, too high... dialing the nose in and out to no avail.

A couple of things-

-Start slow till you get the mechanics right.

-Hold the gun square to board.

-Drive the fastener with firm pressure and give just a little shove when it hits the rock.

-Lock the trigger.

-Don't start with the overhead work. It's really tough to get the swing of things while balancing yourself on a step latter with a sheet of rock on you head while you are trying to find out which pocket has the drywall screws....

[Ed Labadie]

Always found a drywall screw gun to be a pain, as others have said, "If you don't use it everyday...."
I use one of the special drywall screw holders for a cordless drill, DeWalts version is the most easily found. Much easier & cheaper for the diy'er.

http://www.dewalt.com/tool-parts/fastening-accessories-screwdriving-drywall-depth-setters-dw2014.aspx

Ed

[Larry Fox]

As others have said, takes a while to get the hang of it. However, I think part of it is the gun you are using - it is a bit of a pos. I can say that because I also have the exact same one. I had to hang 75 sheets for the basement remodel I am currently doing and I experienced pretty much exactly as you describe with inconsistent depths and other issues no matter how careful I tried to be. That said, the biggest single issue that I had with it was if you were at all off square from driving it would make this aweful noise and the bit would spin in the head of the screw. Many times during the job I wondered to myself if the person who designed it had ever tried to use it.

So, I guess what I am trying to say is that 1) it isn't just you and 2) it might not be due to your technique.

I carried my Dewalt cordless in my nail pouch the whole time to "adjust" the results left by the screw-gun should they be left to shallow.

[Les Heinen]

I have the same gun. Same problem. Toss it in the corner and use nails. That's what I did on our kitchen remodel.

If you only have a little drywall and are not going to do more in the near future, it is hardly worth the learning curve. I suspect it would work better on metal framing. The metal framing is consistant; wood is not.

[Chris Tsutsui]

I had no luck at all with a Milwaukee dry wall gun either that I have. It was giving me inconsistant results. I also hate the noise of the gear grinding in it when that clutch part slips.

If I had a lot of drywall to do I would definitely buy a "collated" drywall screw gun.

Home depot is closing out their collated cordless 18V ridgid models. I saw one at my local HD for $44 this weekend.

I didn't buy it though because I don't usually do drywall and when I do work with drywall I just use a regular drill/driver or impact driver.

HD and Lowes for some reason don't carry the Senco collated drywall guns anymore.