Fluted Columns

[Mike Goetzke]

I was routing some stopped flutes on some tall stiles (first time a tried this). They came out great except for the burning at the start and end of the flutes. Is there a way to avoid this or a special way to sand out the burned ends?

Thanks,

Mike

[Josiah Bartlett]

I can't remember where I saw this, but if you build a ramp jig so your router lifts out of the cut at the end instead of just stopping the router, you avoid burning and you get a better looking flute.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Mike,

I take it you were using some type of a jig?

If so could you start in the middle of the flute....work to one end and then back to the other end...then back to the middle and lift it out of the jig?

By doing that, your router bit might clean up any burning that might occur.

[Mark Bolton]

Are you hanging at the start stop? We do quite a bit of fluting with routers at times and I find when we get burning its because there is a slight pause at the start/stop of the flute. I find you need to be pretty swift and deliberate on getting in and out of the cut in any type of stopped routing operation that is going to show. It only takes a split second.

Mark

[Mike Goetzke]

Are you hanging at the start stop? We do quite a bit of fluting with routers at times and I find when we get burning its because there is a slight pause at the start/stop of the flute. I find you need to be pretty swift and deliberate on getting in and out of the cut in any type of stopped routing operation that is going to show. It only takes a split second.

Mark

That was my problem - spent too much time trying to get the locations just right.

[Forrest Bonner]

I agree with Mark that starting the plunge and exiting the plunge quickly should stop any burning. I have fluted 18 stiles (that's 36 flutes) for bookcases out of poplar using my plunge router and have not burned anything yet. Just don't hesitate at either end (or in between!). But Josiah's suggestion is going to be used next time - the gentle slope on each end sounds terrific.
Forrest

[Paul Greathouse]

Ken and Marks suggestions are really one in the same. The technique that Ken describes is the easiest method to achieve what Mark suggests.

The biggest problem I had making flutes was the initial plunge. If I did the plunge at the exact location that the flute starts, I would get a burn there and if I hesitated too long at the end of the flute I would also get a burn.

I have also done what Josiah said, if you use a ramp, you will get a bullet tip shape at the end of the flute. It all depends on the look you want.

[Mike Goetzke]

I agree with Mark that starting the plunge and exiting the plunge quickly should stop any burning. I have fluted 18 stiles (that's 36 flutes) for bookcases out of poplar using my plunge router and have not burned anything yet. Just don't hesitate at either end (or in between!). But Josiah's suggestion is going to be used next time - the gentle slope on each end sounds terrific.
Forrest

The other thing making matters worse is that I'm using a hardwood that seems to be sensitive to burning. I was able to remove the marks with a ball cutter on my Dremel but this would be impractical if I had many to do. BTW - the stiles are 2-1/2" w x 8' tall.

Thanks for the help for next time,

Mike

[Mark Bolton]

Something to consider though is that the ramp technique will give you a bit of a pointed end to your flute. If you are looking for a bull nose or semi-circular end to your flute you just about have to plunge.

The best way that we have found to be swift is to simply setup stop blocks. This way you don't even have to think about starting and stopping. You just set your router base against the start block, plunge and start moving right away, the instant you hit your stop block trip the release getting the bit out of the cut.

I really like the look of the pointed flutes you get with the ramp but we seem to get a lot who like the bull nose look.

Here you can see the bull nose style:
http://www.dewalt.com/Blogs/image.axd?picture=finished.jpg

Here you can see the style you usually get with the ramp:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/flute_size_and_spacing_2.jpg

Mark

[mreza Salav]

You've got good advice so far.
I've done this in a few projects, one of which is the one below (actually the first one). It also shows the progress pics including the jig and how it's done (e.g. see post #9):

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=83398

What I've found helps to reduce this is to start in the middle and go towards the ends (in a few shallow passes) and don't wait at the ends.
If you take shallow passes it allows you to move quickly. The last pass gives you a smooth result without needing a lot of sanding.

[Chris Fournier]

We all struggle with the problem that you are having.

I will assume that your set up is very rigid and that everything stays registered before, during and after your first router pass.

After your first burnt "hogging" pass set another depth stop on your router to remove say 1/64". Take a final pass with this very light cut and it will pretty much get rid of the burnt portions as long as you move swiftly and don't dwell.

[Frank Drew]

A plunge router with depth stops is ideally suited for this kind of start/stop work, and would really suit Chris' suggestion to make a final very light pass.

But some amount of final sanding is probably inevitable, no matter how good your technique and how sharp your router bit -- because of grain direction, it's not uncommon for one side of each flute and half of each bullnose end to be a bit more roughly cut than the other.