band saw blade width for resawing

[John Pohja]

I've upgraded to a 19" band saw and have been reading a lot of info on blade width and the consensus seems to be, "for resawing, use the widest blade the machine is designed to handle."
Seeing the cost of wide blades (1") vs. narrower blades (1/2") was wondering if anyone has experienced,all things being equal, either a big difference (or not) when using one width over the other. Thanks. John

[John Coloccia]

I've gotten acceptable resawing with my 3/16" pattern cutting blade. I think 1/2" is fine. I'm currently using a 3/4" Woodslicer. My 1/2" Woodslicer was great too. I'm thinking a 3/4" Woodslicer would be very nice on your saw. I'm assuming it's one of the G0514s since 19" is an unusual size. I have a G0514X2 and it loves the 3/4" Woodslicer. Much better than the 1" Timberwolf I was using. The Grizz can properly tension the 1" Timberwolf with plenty to spare, but the Woodslicer just really works well for me at the moment. It's also FAR easier to install than the 1" blade. The 1" is a struggle for me on the Grizz. You need to do contortions to get it where it needs to go. 3/4" is no problem.

[Lance Norris]

I have a Grizzly G0457(14" steel frame) and have gotten good results with both 1/2" and 3/4" 3 tooth per inch blades. I have resawn 10" black walnut with the 3/4" and the cut was true with no bowing. I would use a 3/4" bi-metal blade.

[Van Huskey]

There is some info on the subject in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=149862&highlight=bandsaw

As you will see from the thread I am in the wider is better camp, but the point of diminishing returns starts to come in at 1/2"-3/4". The best way to save money in the long run is a bi-metal or carbide tipped blade over a carbon/silicon steel or especially a hardened spring steel blade (Woodslicer et al). The hardened spring steel blades have their uses, namely helping 14" cast clones tension a decent sized resaw blade (it was designed over 70 years ago for a 1/4" blade) or specialty resawing where waste needs to be kept at a minamum. This all said you will get better results from a 1 1/4" blade than a 1/2" blade (all other things equal) but whether the increase in quality balances the increase in cost makes YOU happy! The big thing you get with a wider blade is the very significant increase in beam strength (thing 2x4 vs 2x12) which increases the blades resistance to deflection.

[John Pohja]

I've gotten acceptable resawing with my 3/16" pattern cutting blade. I think 1/2" is fine. I'm currently using a 3/4" Woodslicer. My 1/2" Woodslicer was great too. I'm thinking a 3/4" Woodslicer would be very nice on your saw. I'm assuming it's one of the G0514s since 19" is an unusual size. I have a G0514X2 and it loves the 3/4" Woodslicer. Much better than the 1" Timberwolf I was using. The Grizz can properly tension the 1" Timberwolf with plenty to spare, but the Woodslicer just really works well for me at the moment. It's also FAR easier to install than the 1" blade. The 1" is a struggle for me on the Grizz. You need to do contortions to get it where it needs to go. 3/4" is no problem.

John,thanks for the comparison. The G0514x2 is what i just purchased. Not a big fan of the Woodslicer,however. Used one on my 14" Jet and while very sharp at the outset, it seemed to dull quickly. I'm looking at the lenox carbide tipped and bimetal blades for more longevity. John

[Van Huskey]

John,thanks for the comparison. The G0514x2 is what i just purchased. Not a big fan of the Woodslicer,however. Used one on my 14" Jet and while very sharp at the outset, it seemed to dull quickly. I'm looking at the lenox carbide tipped and bimetal blades for more longevity. John

If you you are looking at Lenox carbide blades you may find the 1" is as cheap as the 1/2", also I do not think Lenox makes a variable pitch 1/2" Trimaster. If you are spending that coin get the VP! The other great Lenox carbide blade for resawing is the Woodmaster CT which doesn't come more narrow than 1". The Lenox bi-metal I like for resawing is the Woodmaster B which is also only available in 1" or greater, the Diemaster 2 is also good but I prefer the WM for resawing.

[John Coloccia]

If you you are looking at Lenox carbide blades you may find the 1" is as cheap as the 1/2", also I do not think Lenox makes a variable pitch 1/2" Trimaster. If you are spending that coin get the VP! The other great Lenox carbide blade for resawing is the Woodmaster CT which doesn't come more narrow than 1". The Lenox bi-metal I like for resawing is the Woodmaster B which is also only available in 1" or greater, the Diemaster 2 is also good but I prefer the WM for resawing.

+1 I don't do enough resawing to justify that kind of blade, but if I was going to spend that kind of money on a blade, the Lenox blades are awesome.

[Pete Bradley]

I've ... been reading a lot of info on blade width and the consensus seems to be, "for resawing, use the widest blade the machine is designed to handle."

Bogus. That gets quoted on forums a lot, I suspect mostly by people who heard it from someone else.

What you really need for a best resaw is a band that runs extremely stable in tall cuts. That of course can't be defined in a sound bite and depends on the machine. Generally a 1/2"X3TPI band will do well on almost any midsize machine like yours. As for what's optimal, that may take some experimentation. Advice from other people with actual experience on your make and model of machine or similar machines is helpful too.

[Chris Padilla]

If you you are looking at Lenox carbide blades you may find the 1" is as cheap as the 1/2", also I do not think Lenox makes a variable pitch 1/2" Trimaster. If you are spending that coin get the VP! The other great Lenox carbide blade for resawing is the Woodmaster CT which doesn't come more narrow than 1". The Lenox bi-metal I like for resawing is the Woodmaster B which is also only available in 1" or greater, the Diemaster 2 is also good but I prefer the WM for resawing.

I'll provide my usual shout-out regarding this:

I have the following blades and have resawn a fair amount of walnut into 3/32" veneers (later drum-sanded to 1/16"):

1" Lenox Trimaster with the 2/3 variable pitch, carbide, 1/16" kerf
1/2" Lenox Diemaster2, bimetal, hook style, 6 tpi, ~0.035" kerf

The above two are equivalent in my eyes for resawing on my 20" Minimax bandsaw.

I have a 1" Lenox WoodmasterCT as well: carbide, 1.3 tpi, 0.051" kerf and I didn't care for the surface finish it left...I felt it required more sanding than the finish from either of the two above blades.

Regarding "wider is better". I think that is probably true in a commercial shop but as Van said, where most of us weekend whackers are, the 1" and below width, it doesn't matter. Bandsaw set up is at least half the story and likely more, then perhaps the blade, then tensioning (and the ability of the BS to tension "nicely"), then operator. Something like that. :)

[Nick Lazz]

Bogus. That gets quoted on forums a lot, I suspect mostly by people who heard it from someone else.

What you really need for a best resaw is a band that runs extremely stable in tall cuts. That of course can't be defined in a sound bite and depends on the machine. Generally a 1/2"X3TPI band will do well on almost any midsize machine like yours. As for what's optimal, that may take some experimentation. Advice from other people with actual experience on your make and model of machine or similar machines is helpful too.


I am no expert re-sawer by any stretch of the imagination but I can say I agree with this post because of my experience.
I have the Laguna 14SE and was unable to get consistent results with their 1" resaw king. (I bought that blade under the recommendation that wider was better.)
That could have been me, but I had a difficult time tensioning the large blade. I ultimately switched to a 3/4" Woodslicer and have had much better success.

[Jon McElwain]

I have the Laguna 14SE.....

That could have been me, but I had a difficult time tensioning the large blade. I ultimately switched to a 3/4" Woodslicer and have had much better success.

Dito. I have the Laguna 14" 3000 SUV and get great resaw results with a 1/2" 3tpi blade.

I will say that the thinner the blade, the more important your saw set up is though. Getting the correct tension, getting your guides lined up just right, and adjusting the fence for blade drift is probably more important that the type of blade you are running. Also, a sharp blade will make the whole experience much more satisfying! When my saw is tuned up well, I can resaw thin 1/8" to 3/16" strips quite easily. Whenever I have had problems, a sharp blade and a good bandsaw tuneup has solved the issues.

[David Weaver]

I also have had better results resawing with a 3/4" timberwolf blade (probably similar to a woodslicer) than with a 1" resaw king.

The resaw king leaves a nicer finish, but it has more tendency to bow despite resetting the guides tight at the tooth gullets.

That's on a Jet JWBS-18x.