Best Stone for a Hand Crank Grinder

[Mike Olson]

I finally found a hand crank grinder for use in my little shop, but it didn't come with a stone wheel.

Since these turn slowly i'm not concerned with getting those expensive low heat wheels that everyone talks about.

So, which stone should I get? I plan on using this for my Plane Irons mostly, but also my turning tools, and maybe my chisels.

Thanks,
Mike

[David Keller NC]

Mike - You can still burn a steel tool on a hand-cranked grinder. It's quite easy, in fact, particularly if you're grinding to the very edg of the tool. The only type of grinder that is totally immune to this problem are water-cooled wheels (whether a Tormek or the giant, hand-cranked stone wheels).

For this reason, I'd think you'd be better off going with one of the coarser wheels. Another reason is that with hand-cranked power only, a coarser wheel will get the work done more quickly.

[john brenton]

Let us, or just me, know how you like it once you get it all set up. I really don't need an electric grinder, but occasionally I do need a little more than just the stones. I've thought about the hand crank grinder, but have never found one cheap enough (shipping costs...you know) to experiment.



I finally found a hand crank grinder for use in my little shop, but it didn't come with a stone wheel.

Since these turn slowly i'm not concerned with getting those expensive low heat wheels that everyone talks about.

So, which stone should I get? I plan on using this for my Plane Irons mostly, but also my turning tools, and maybe my chisels.

Thanks,
Mike

[george wilson]

I would SUPPOSE a white wheel,as coarse as possible,would be the most effective thing to use,just as it is in an electric bench grinder. Cuts faster than others.

[Bill McDermott]

It's my first and only grinder. I have a general purpose, grey wheel on it. Folks with electric grinders can be so careful about their delicate movements. I need to work quickly. Some jobs can be done while cranking slow and steady. But often, I need to crank it up and let it wind down while using two hands to control the blade. That leaves precious little time.

So... what others say about coarse wheels makes sense to me. ON a related note, I can also validate the ease of over-heating near the edge.

Still, it's a fun tool to use. Enjoy.

PS - Sandpaper on glass with a honing jig quickly makes everything perfect on tools that deserve better that what I can get right off the grinder.

[Johnny Kleso]

I would say a ***-46-H-*** 46 grit H hardness H,I or J should be fine..These are the most common wheels for a surface grinder in a machine shop..

For bench grinders most have a N hardness but on your slow hand cranker I would use a softer wheel that exposes more sharp grit quicker..

Look on eBay for some good deals..

[Gaz Palmer]

It's my first and only grinder. I have a general purpose, grey wheel on it. Folks with electric grinders can be so careful about their delicate movements. I need to work quickly. Some jobs can be done while cranking slow and steady. But often, I need to crank it up and let it wind down while using two hands to control the blade. That leaves precious little time.

So... what others say about coarse wheels makes sense to me. ON a related note, I can also validate the ease of over-heating near the edge.

Still, it's a fun tool to use. Enjoy.

PS - Sandpaper on glass with a honing jig quickly makes everything perfect on tools that deserve better that what I can get right off the grinder.

Invest in a spare pair of safety glasses and enrol a "volunteer" to crank whilst you grind, or remove the cranking handle and chuck an electric drill to it, but be sure to have it set at elbow grease speed. :D

[Johnny Kleso]

PS:
You may need to use some GRINDING WHEEL BUSHINGS
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=255&PMCTLG=00

This are a short section of plastic tubing to fit different size wheels on to grinder shaft..
Its OK to use two bushings, say a 1/4" wide in a 1/2" wide wheel..

[Mike Olson]

I would say a ***-46-H-*** 46 grit H hardness H,I or J should be fine..These are the most common wheels for a surface grinder in a machine shop..

Wouldn't 46 grit leave the surface rather rough? would i need to touch up with sand paper every time?

I found 46 grit at woodcraft, and a 60 and 80. which would give me the best general use? also, white, pink, or Norton 3x?

Thanks,
Mike

[Steve Branam]

I found a nice hand-cranked grinder at an antique shop in Berea, KY, this past summer for $40. I got a 6" 60-grit white Norton wheel for it from SharpeningSupplies.com. Took a little fiddling with the included plastic bushings, but it turns smoothly.

I use it strictly for coarse hollow grinding, to be followed up with honing on oil or water stones, per David Marks. So I don't worry too much about the coarse grind pattern or precision shaping, and I stay away from the edge enough that I don't worry about burning.

This is just one of several sharpening methods I'm using. But especially for quick removal of large amounts of metal (like when grinding back from a chipped edge), it's great. Doing the same heavy task on flat stones or sandpaper would easily take 3-5 times as long. The hand cranking isn't too much work.

[Steve Thomas]

On mine i have a white 80 grit 6" stone.

It does get hot if you are really going for it but after the first month of using it I have realised that you don't use a handcranked grinder if your in a rush... I pull the saw horse up and slowly crank, working with one hand, touching the blade on and off in shortish bursts to maintain momentum.

It takes about 2 - 4 min to restablish a hollow ground blade. then on to the stones about a minute.

Calm and controlled. a nice way to work.

Yes you still get heat so i quench in my water stone container.

[Dave Beauchesne]

On mine i have a white 80 grit 6" stone.

It does get hot if you are really going for it but after the first month of using it I have realised that you don't use a handcranked grinder if your in a rush... I pull the saw horse up and slowly crank, working with one hand, touching the blade on and off in shortish bursts to maintain momentum.

It takes about 2 - 4 min to restablish a hollow ground blade. then on to the stones about a minute.

Calm and controlled. a nice way to work.

Yes you still get heat so i quench in my water stone container.

x2

One trick that made a big difference for me is to blacken the entire bevel with a Sharpie, tweak the platform to the right angle and stay away from the edge.Turn the crank a bit and touch the blade to the stone to see where the material is coming off = GO SLOWLY TILL YOU GET IT BANG ON!! I shoot for the centre of the bevel, and in a controlled manner, work the hollow grind deeper and deeper till there is close to the same amount of untouched bevel on the heel and toe - say a 1/16'' or less.

Then, take it to the finishing medium of choice - in my case, 1000, then 8000, and finally 16k Shapton Glass Stones.

Good Luck - - - - -

Dave Beauchesne

[Johnny Kleso]

My opinion is no matter what git you buy you will need to stone the edge...

I would go for faster and cooler grinding over slower and better finish..

A few swipes on a hand stone and which ever wheel you used will make no difference...

PLAIN WHITE WHEEL WILL WORK FINE..