G1023 modified for better dust collection

[Kevin Gagne]

I recently upgraded the dust collector in my shop to a G0548 so that I can run 6" lines. The G1023 only has a 4" port on the left side of the saw and I still end up with a fair amount of dust that does not get sucked up. I was wondering if anyone has made any modifications to increase the dust collection of this saw. I don't think there is room to increase the diameter of the current port so I would have to add an additional 4" port on the back. I know that an overarm collector will help a lot and that is on the list but I am looking make the base as efficient as I can right now. If the dust is building up below the saw it seems like there should be a way to collect it better. Thanks -Kevin

[Neil Brooks]

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:_DAstW4DhuM5ZM:http://www.cyclonefanatic.com/gallery/files/3/0/1/1/1974.gif&t=1

[Lance Norris]

Not on a 1023, but I did exactly the same to my Delta cabinet saw with dramatic results.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=76571

[Mark Duksta]

I have a 1023. I enlarged the hole so I could run a 6" diameter flex hose to it.

[Ed Hazel]

I have a 1023. I enlarged the hole so I could run a 6" diameter flex hose to it.

Same here, I also made a 1/4 ply floor so that it slopes to the duct.

A blade shroud would be nice,

[Kevin Gagne]

Could you post a picture of your modified port please. Did you remove the existing metal bottom inside the cabinet to make the 6" port fit? Did you seal up the gaps where the top meets the base and around the slot in the front and back for changing the blade angle?

[Lance Norris]

Did you seal up the gaps where the top meets the base and around the slot in the front and back for changing the blade angle?

This is a common mistake people make. Do not seal these areas. You need air flow into the cabinet.

[Chris Padilla]

This is a common mistake people make. Do not seal these areas. You need air flow into the cabinet.

It is not necessarily a mistake.

You want to roughly match the area of your duct to the area of all the holes that air will flow into through the TS.

Theoretcially, you could seal up the TS good n' tight and then adjust the holes in the throat plate to match the duct area. In that case, you focus all the air flow through the throat plate (where your wood is making the most mess) and into the cabinet and hopefully into the duct.

On my 1023, I simply cut a larger hole where the 4" duct was. I did a few additional things to create a spot that a 6" hose could attach to. It was nothing terribly brilliant or difficult.

[Bruce Wrenn]

It is not necessarily a mistake.

You want to roughly match the area of your duct to the area of all the holes that air will flow into through the TS.

Theoretcially, you could seal up the TS good n' tight and then adjust the holes in the throat plate to match the duct area. In that case, you focus all the air flow through the throat plate (where your wood is making the most mess) and into the cabinet and hopefully into the duct.

On my saw, the wood I'm cutting covers the throat plate, hence no air flow trough it.

[eugene thomas]

if only my 1994 1023 had a 4" dust port on it when came from factory.....

[Mark Duksta]

Here are pics of how I ran 6" flex to the saw. If you want to cover the opening where the crank is you can do it like I did. I found a lot of dust was coming through the crank opening. The for sale sign is magnetic. I have it stuck to the right of the crank in this picture because the blade is tilted.

[eugene thomas]

anyone still use the orignal fence or guard that came with the 1023. three years ago finally got into big shop and first thing did was install biesmeyer fence and in process of installing overarm guard with and biesmeyer splitter.. now should beable to not have to keep nudging the guard back and forth to make in line with blade. whoever designed the guard / fence system at grizzly for my 1994 era saw should be fired.

[Curt Harms]

Here are pics of how I ran 6" flex to the saw. If you want to cover the opening where the crank is you can do it like I did. I found a lot of dust was coming through the crank opening. The for sale sign is magnetic. I have it stuck to the right of the crank in this picture because the blade is tilted.

and got some scraps. One piece was big enough to cover the cutout where the elevation wheels comes through. I also stuffed enough foam insulation between the cabinet and top to get decent airflow through the blade opening. Dust collection is very good though not perfect. I have a 6" line just like Mark has. With the necessary turns, I'm sure the 6" flex isn't moving anywhere near its theoretical maximum so 4" would be pretty much useless.

[Jim O'Dell]

The only way I'd fill in all the gaps like that with my cyclone is to make a bigger intake on the motor cover. I've thought about taking the cover to a car shop that does the cut louvers in metal and have some more cut into it. I think there are 6 in it from the factory. I also thought about cutting a 4" hole and ducting the air flow to the blade area to "direct" the dust to the pick up opening. But my G0691 stays pretty clean inside the cabinet, and if I'm cutting something flat that I can use the over head 4" pick up head, I get very little on top of the saw.
Mark, your pictures above are the first time I've seen how the 1023 dust pick up was set up. It is very similar to the 691, but on the back and a smaller plate. Mine has a lot more sheet metal to play with for enlarging for the 6" pick up. Jim.