Bevels on the table saw.

[Aaron Hancock]

I'm in the process of making a small jewelry box. I want to bevel the edges of the top.. So, set the blade to 15 degrees, move the fence a 1/2" away from the blade, set the height and run the top through up right. Easy enough. But, I'm getting nasty burn marks. Relatively new combination blade.. Any ideas on how to avoid burning or how else to do this?

[glenn bradley]

Burning is generally an alignment problem although some woods, like cherry and beech, burn more easily that others. If you are cutting long grain (and I think you are) a good 24T rip blade will help a lot (assuming your alignment is good). Your combo blade is going to leave you with a surface that needs some attention anyway. If you go after the burns with a card scraper right after cutting, they should clean up pretty quick. That's my preferred method when I get scorched ;-)

[Joseph Tarantino]

you have a blade alignment problem. that or the blade is dull. personaly, when i got burn marks previouisly, my fence wasn't aligned to the blade/miter slot. if the fence is aligned properly for a 90* rip, and the blade is sharp, there could be 45* alignment issue. this thread on the ridgid forum contains an explanation of the problem and the author describes, quite thoroughly, how to calculate the amount of the misalignment, if present, as well as a way to correct for it.

http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836&highlight=4511+alignment

this will affect hybrids and cabinets more than contractor saws, but the theory is applicable to all kinds of saws. HTH

[scott spencer]

Burning could be caused by several things... a dirty blade, dull blade, too many teeth, a blade with a very tight side grind, alignment issues, technique, etc.

How far is the blade buried into the wood, and what specific blade are you using?

[Rod Sheridan]

Aaron, due to the grain orientation of the wood, you are making a rip cut.

The suggestions about saw alignment are well worth investigating, however I wouldn't go further without switching to a rip blade.

Regards, Rod.

[Forrest Bonner]

If your box is buried under the blade (i.e., the box is between the blade and the fence with the blade tilted towards the fence) this could cause burning. Try the other way where the box is not buried. And all the other good advice here, of course.
Forrest

[Jeff Duncan]

Even if your alignment is right on you can still get burn marks by moving the wood too slowly. I'll echo the advice for a good rip blade and make the cut in 2 passes. The first to remove the bulk of the waste and the second to skim and remove any burning left by he first.

good luck,
JeffD

[Prashun Patel]

+1 on switching to rip blade. This will allow you to move the lid through a little more 'swiftly'.

To that end, running thru stuff on edge can be a little scary. If it were me, I'd run it thru using a tenoning jig: Basically a saddle that rides the saw's fence with a tall fence on the blade side. You can clamp your lid to this aux fence and then push the jig thru with yr hands safely out of the way on the other side of the fence.

Such a jig - besides being safer - may also assist in pushing the piece thru straight and smoothly - not fast - just smooth and swift.