Help me Configure PM66 Layout

[Ruhi Arslan]

I am trying to decide the best possible arrangement to utilize the space around the table the most suitable way with what I have available. I do not want to corner myself with unforseen obstacles rendering the the setup not so "user friendly". I had my setup with a 28x21" router table add-on and 72" long rail Incra fence system around a PM64A. I had the RT on the left side, between the rails on the RHS empty. I had plenty of right to the blade cutting capacity and large enough support to the left of the blade with PM64. I was surprised to see PM66 top is narrower than the 64 top.
I came up with few configuration options with what I already have and what I could get to add on. I also have to take the Excalibur overarm guard into account attached from right hand side. PM66 is left tilting with the motor cover on the left side. Because I have the Incra, I am not considering to use OEM rails and the fence.

1) Additional Cost: $0 - RHS 28x21" RT and 72" rails with a gap between the table and RT. Can attach the Excalibur but RT doesn't have room to use the Incra fence. If I were to slide the RT to the left closer to the table top, I couldn't use the Excalibur with fence/rail system I am using. (Pic 1)

2) Additional Cost: $0 - LHS 28x21" RT with 72" rails and RHS PM extension table. Seems like enough support from the rails with the help of support legs on both ends which I already have. There is few inches of gap between the RT DC box and the motor cover. How often and under what circumstances you need to remove the cover? If it won't be a too much on the way, I can live with this arrangement which also allows me to use Excalibur. (Pic 2)

3) Additional Cost: $165 - LHS 28x21" RT with 92" rails and RHS PM extension table. Additional 20" of rails provide full support across the length of the both RT and the PM extension table. Still have the problem with the motor cover. (Pic 3)

4) Additional Cost: $145 - RHS 28x32" RT with 72" rails. If I were to get a new RT and place it on the RHS with the existing 72" rails, I can make it work. Only drawback is that I will have little surface/support to the left of the blade. (Pic 4)

If I were to place the RT on the left, there would be enough room not to interfere with the motor cover but I won't have enough rail to the right to have wide enough capacity to the right of the blade.

5) Additional Cost: $310 - RHS 28x32" RT with 92" rails and 21" additional surface to the left. Left hand side RT top is just as a surface not as router table with the DC box underneath. This would provide me plenty of work surface and allows everything to work together. (Pic 5)

6) Additional Cost: $310 - LHS 28x32" RT with 92" rails and RHS PM extension table. Only drawback to this one that I can think of is it is just too wide at 105". My workshop is about 15' wide and I rotate the TS as needed. It will leave little room to get around. And, I'll have a 28x21" RT that I would not know what to do with it. (Pic 6)

I am sure there are may other combinations but this what I could come up with. Any suggestions, other options that you could recommend, negatives? I like the #2 the best because I can use what I already have. Thanks.

[Ruhi Arslan]

Sorry for the self bump. I waited till the post slipped down to the fourth page. No comments, no, suggestions? Mybe the answer is "what floats your boat" but let me try one more time... Thanks and sorry for wasting your extra "mouse clicks". ;)

[Larry Rasmussen]

I went through a less complex lay out process last year with the fitting of a Jessem sliding table and a bench dog cast iron top to a smaller jet table saw so I read your post over coffee and cereal. Even looking at clearance under the saw for a dust box under the router mounted to right of blade and allowing shop room for using the left mounted sliding table , considering for both tools where a feeder might be mounted was a challenge for me. I always think I will realize I painted myself into a corner the first week I try a new set up.

So anyway, to your post.

1. It seems from reading here that the Incra involves some sacrifice in capacity for rip width as it is set up partly on the table top. Is this correct? If yes where on the table does it go and what impact on capacity does it make?

2. What do you use the saw for? Cut much plywood? Do you break plywood down on table saw or start it with circular saw guided or not?

3. Was there a problem with the old set up that you particularly wanted to design out of the new one? If yes how well does each of your choices accomplish this?

I keep thinking of more questions like does the incra control a separate router fence, stuff like that.

Regards,
Larry R
Seattle

[Frank Martin]

I went through a less complex lay out process last year with the fitting of a Jessem sliding table and a bench dog cast iron top to a smaller jet table saw so I read your post over coffee and cereal.

Hi Larry,

Not to highjack the original question, but I am also pondering how to fit the Benchdog cast iron router wing to the right side of my right tilt Unisaw with unifence and install the Jessem slider on the left. So, would appreicate if you can post some pictures of your setup.

My rip fence capacity is 32" and I have no need to increase it. The best solution I have come up with so far is to put a ~8" spacer on the right side of the saw table (already has a cast iron wing) then add the Bench Dog to the right of it....

Thanks in advance..

[Chip Lindley]

Ruhi, I hesitated to answer, because this setup is such a personal one. Everyone has their own preference.

But, since you asked, I have found that anything to the left of the saw blade is usually VERY in the way; especially a router. A router hanging in front of the motor cover would have to be removed to access inside the saw for any internal adjustments. My PM66 has the 36" extension table to the right in the traditional form. My JessEm router lift is centered about 14" from the right end of the table. I have a separate PM AccuFence to use with the router. With my router lift to the extreme right, most of the saw table is clear to use for incidental assembly work, etc.

If your Incra fence system includes that center beam, it will limit you as to your possibilities. Takes up lots of real estate. I would find that unacceptable. The Biesemeyer-type fences lift off easily and leave a clear table surface when needed.

I got rid of the flimsy HTC stand that came with the 66, and built my own heavy-duty stand of 3" welded channel. The new stand provides a solid platform for the saw, extension table and legs. A storage unit was fashioned to slide into the open space beneath the ext. table. It leaves room to access the tilt wheel, and the router at the end of the table.

http://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=162803&d=1285690655

Sorry, the storage cabinet wasn't included (yet)!

[Ruhi Arslan]

1. It seems from reading here that the Incra involves some sacrifice in capacity for rip width as it is set up partly on the table top. Is this correct? If yes where on the table does it go and what impact on capacity does it make?
Yes, indeed, it does. It occupies about 13 1/2" of the rail capacity to the right of the blade compared to 10" Accu-Fence does. I can live with 3 1/2" additional loss in exchange of "repeatability" Incra fence would provide. When the "Wonder Fence" added for the router table it takes an additional 2 1/2" but it is only relevant if the RT is placed on the RHS. There is plenty of room if the RT is on the LHS of the table.

I am experimenting now with the #2 arrangement. It gives me 25" capacity to the right with 72" rails. I could slide the rails a bit more in the expense of loosing support for the RT on the left. Or I could add about 20" by getting 92" rails.


2. What do you use the saw for? Cut much plywood? Do you break plywood down on table saw or start it with circular saw guided or not? Mostly plywood at least for a long time while building many many built-ins and library system I am planning now. I break plywood with on the floor over a 2" foam with a home made guide.


3. Was there a problem with the old set up that you particularly wanted to design out of the new one? If yes how well does each of your choices accomplish this?My previous TS was PM64A which has about two inches wider table top then 66. I had the RT on the left with rails sticking out to the right without the table extension in between. I continuously ran into them getting all bruised up (I wear 32" inseam pants, you do the math where they hit first... :o) Since I couldn't attach the table insert safely/securely, it seemed like I always ended up looking for a surface to place things in my hand (measuring, marking thingies...) without that extra surface.


I keep thinking of more questions like does the incra control a separate router fence, stuff like that. I think Incra router fence is great. It is one of the main reasons I have the Incra fence system and trying to get a good use out of it. All I have to do is to slide the fence carrying bridge to the left side to a predetermined location with fixed stop blocks. Then slide it back to the TS operation location again with stop blocks.