Crown Molding

[David Reed]

I need some help with crown molding on kitchen cabinets. What are the angles I should be cutting for the joint at the junction between the short riser and the horizontal segment with the 45 degree intersection of the cabinet face. I have glued the molding to machined lumber as shown to provide support for screwing the assembly to the cabinet case.
thanks
David Reed

[joseph quijas]

usually it helps if you cut the crown upside down and backwards. Not sure what the angles are, but it seems that it should be a small 45 degree angle cut to zero on the top (kind of a pie sliced shape peice).
Not sure, but I just usually return the crown and continue it on the top of the next peice. on the second level up I would return it to the wall.

[Roy Lindberry]

I need some help with crown molding on kitchen cabinets. What are the angles I should be cutting for the joint at the junction between the short riser and the horizontal segment with the 45 degree intersection of the cabinet face. I have glued the molding to machined lumber as shown to provide support for screwing the assembly to the cabinet case.
thanks
David Reed

Are you planning to run the molding up the corner cabinet and then across the top?

Also, without knowing the pitch/angle of the particular crown you are using, it would be hard to know the angle you need. Even then, I don't know that I could help.

But you are just down the street from me...I'm in Burley.

[David Thompson 27577]

{you said some stuff, then.......}

I have glued the molding to machined lumber as shown to provide support for screwing the assembly to the cabinet case.
thanks
David Reed

Adding support is a good idea.

But in the picture, it looks like you attached the crown to the door. Since I know that isn't right, I'll assume its not actually attached -- just laid there as a photo-example.


I also vote for the returns. There's a fair amount of very complex geometry in what you're asking, and it may not even be possible. Maybe if someone like Gary Katz were here, he'd be able to help out

[David Reed]

Joseph Quijas said
"It seems that it should be a small 45 degree angle cut to zero on the top (kind of a pie sliced shape peice).
Not sure, but I just usually return the crown and continue it on the top of the next peice. on the second level up I would return it to the wall."

I like this idea of the pie piece but not sure it is any simpler than the compound miter required to join the two pieces (two compound miters?). I thought of the return but want to look of the continuous wrap.

Roy Lindberry said
"Are you planning to run the molding up the corner cabinet and then across the top?"
Yes

"you are just down the street from me...I'm in Burley."
We'll have to get together and share lies. My current wood passion is turning.

David Thompson said
"in the picture, it looks like you attached the crown to the door. Since I know that isn't right..."

Correct, it is not attached to the door; it is currently screwed to the cabinet case on top.

[Steve Orbine]

my 2 cents - I don't like the vertical run of crown at all. If you must change height, I think I would do a full crown (3 sides) around the high cabinet. (You might have to add some nice plain sawn oak veneer to the side.) Then I would end the crown on the low section with a return into an oak block that would cover the gap. That is, add some height to the lower box just in the corner so you can return a crown into it.

Like I said, 2 cents worth.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

my 2 cents - I don't like the vertical run of crown at all.

I'm with Steve.
How about adding an oak box there. Kind of a valance thing, maybe for lighting?

[Todd Hoppe]

The problem seems to be that the face of the taller corner cabinet and the lower upper cabinets are even at the edge. Would it be possible to remount the corner cabinet, and build it out from the wall, say, with additional studs behind it?

That way, the crown on the uppers would just dead end into the side of the corner cabinet. Here is a good example:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/crown_molding_with_staggered_cabinets_1.jpg

[Craig Carpenter]

I've hung many pieces of Crown over the years and have always thought a vertical is an absolutely horrid look. In a situation like yours, I'd most likely use a couple of 22.5 degree cuts for any 90 corner. It gives a nice look overall as well. I'd then do a return in the area of the staggerd height with a 22.5 first, then a 45 for the return. You might have to stick a finished block behind the return to cover any portion that would otherwise not show wood above the cabinet.

[Joseph Tarantino]

The problem seems to be that the face of the taller corner cabinet and the lower upper cabinets are even at the edge. Would it be possible to remount the corner cabinet, and build it out from the wall, say, with additional studs behind it?

That way, the crown on the uppers would just dead end into the side of the corner cabinet. Here is a good example:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/crown_molding_with_staggered_cabinets_1.jpg

i have to ask...what was the thinking behind that one thin, tall cabinet being placed ~ 6" above the flanking thin, tall cabinets? thanks. oh yeah, and for the OP, never underestimate the value of an architecturally appropriate plinth block to help with trim ends and transitions.

[Doug Carpenter]

It looks to me like the cabinet door to the right is going to hit the crown.

I would vot to terminate the crown and start a new ren on the upper cabinet too.

Todd. That is the cutest baby ever!