Difficult to loosen chuck

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I find it difficult to remove my chuck from the lathe after turning a bowl. I saw a "chuck washer" in a catalog today. It supposedly keeps the chuck from getting so tight it is hard to remove. Does anyone use a washer or perhaps have another remedy. My chuck is a Talon and I typically use a strap wrench around the chuck, lock the spindle and give it a tug.
faust

[Jack Mincey]

I don't use a washer and have used oneway chucks on many different lathes with no trouble. Just put your chuck key in the chuck, lock the spindle and give the chuck key a good thump with the palm of your hand and it will loosen with little effort. Make sure your set screws are backed out so that they clear the threads on your spindle.
Jack

[Doug Wolf]

I bought a couple of plastic ones for my Powermatic. Then after using them for awhile I made a couple the same size from some cherry I had laying around. To be honest with you the cherry ones work as good if not better than the plastic ones I bought.

[Alan Trout]

I do not use washers as this can be a point of run-out. Do like Jack says and you should be good to go.

Alan

[Steve Schlumpf]

I do the same thing as Jack - works every time!

[Fred Belknap]

I have the talon and when it gets a little tight I use a piece of board about 18"x2" and tighten it between the jaws and use it as lever.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I do like Fred does with a board between the jaws. Works every time. I don't like the washer because of run out that was mentioned.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Thanks for the voices of experience. I never considered the fact that the washer would have to be and remain perfect in order not to cause run out. In all truthfulness, I began by using the chuck key as a lever and stopped because I was concerned I would damage the teeth. I will go back to that method.
faust

[Christopher K. Hartley]

I'm with Jack. I too have Oneway and follow the same process. I do, however, use washers on my faceplate assembly and a pair of channel lock plyers to break it loose.:)

[Dave Carey]

I have some arthritis in my hands so use one of those strap wrenches on the chuck even when it's not "stuck." Works like a charm.

[Bill Bolen]

when doing heavy rough outs I use a home made washer from a piece of milk jug. Very thin and never noticed run out. Usually though one is not required. Insert chuck key and give it a tap...Bill...

[Wally Dickerman]

I don't recommend using a washer, but if you feel that you want to, you can make one from milk carton material. It's waxy and works well.


If you're having problems getting the chuck unstuck, it migh be because it's not screwed on tight enough. If it's a loose fit, starting the lathe will move it enough to jam it on. I learned that the hard way once with a faceplate. Had to rent a long heavy pipe wrench to get it loose.

Wally

[Scott Hackler]

Just curious as to why you fellas are removing your chuck all the time. I haven't removed my SN2 since it was mounted onto the headstock. And I cant think of a reason, other than swapping it out for a better chuck (permanently), to ever take mine off.

[Harvey Schneider]

I am not sure most turners would recognize a small run-out error. It would be noticeable primarily as vibration from the chuck's mass being off axis. Similar to a piece of wood that has a dense portion or a void. Of course steel is denser than wood so small errors are more noticeable.
I use an SN2 and the easiest way to remove it is a wrench on the threaded adapter. I picked up an old cast iron, S shaped wrench at a flea market and ground the working end of it, on a belt sander, to be thin enough to fit in the space between the headstock and the chuck. It's easy on the hand and makes it easy to break the chuck loose from the spindle. The wrench only cost me $1.50 and about five minutes to grind down its width.

[Allen stagg]

From my past experience. Do not spin the chuck fast to snap the chuck tight. Just slowly turn and tighten it as needed but not try to jam it by spinning the chuck. I saw a report from Lyle Jamieson that the washers will allow slight vibration in the chuck and the chuck is supposed to bottom out with metal to metal contact to get full thrength of the tightening process.

[Reed Gray]

I will swap out chucks depending on what I am turning or sanding. I have used a plastic washer for years, and have noticed no wash/run out. I do prefer the chuck to be fairly tight, and mostly the turning pressure will continue to snug it up. The key in the chuck will get it off most of the time. The only time the chucks tend to get sticky is because of dust/chips/debris in the threads. Usually simple to blow out or maybe a stiff bristle tooth brush.

robo hippy

[Prashun Patel]

Just curious as to why you fellas are removing your chuck all the time. I haven't removed my SN2 since it was mounted onto the headstock. And I cant think of a reason, other than swapping it out for a better chuck (permanently), to ever take mine off.

Scott, how do you turn with a faceplate? I don't like swapping my chuck out each time, but I know of no other way.

[Sean Hughto]

I use faceplates, four jaw chucks, spur drives, jacob chucks, donut chuck, etc. on my head stock. That's why I have to take my scroll chucks off. Indeed, I can't imagine how I would turn with a scroll chuck only on the head stock all the time. I suppose that with a center screw you could use less faceplates?

As for stuck chucks, I find that it is usually saw dust and grit combined with having left the chuck on for a few days that tend to cause a stick situation. I just use the key and spindle lock, sometimes juiced by a squirt of WD40. I then take care to clean things up(remove the gunk from the thread areas and elsewhere) to avoid a repeat.

[Wally Dickerman]

Just curious as to why you fellas are removing your chuck all the time. I haven't removed my SN2 since it was mounted onto the headstock. And I cant think of a reason, other than swapping it out for a better chuck (permanently), to ever take mine off.

Scott, depends on your turning habits. I usually have more than one project going at one time. Sometimes I use 2 or more chucks to do the various operations needed for a project. I change chucks because each chuck has a different sized set of jaws to be used as needed. I remove the chuck for spindle turning. I sometime use Double faced tape with a faceplate.

Also, I turn on both the inboard and outboard sides of my lathe.

I have 6 chucks, all are used.

Wally

[Scott Hackler]

I have a faceplate ring that is made for my 50mm chuck jaws. Works great and the chuck stays on the lathe 100% of the time. I have been meaning to buy a larger ring for bigger blanks but so far, this one works good enough to turn a tenon and flip it around!



Scott, how do you turn with a faceplate? I don't like swapping my chuck out each time, but I know of no other way.

[Don Watson]

Faust,
I cut a washer from the paper used to support the sticky labels that I print from the PC.
When you have printed out the labels the sheet you are left with has a shiny surface on one side where the labels were. This is ideal for a washer between chuck and headstock register

take care
Don W

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Don,
You must have been doing some catch up reading. Thanks for the tip. I will try it. We surely have that laying around.
faust

[Don Watson]

Yes Faust,
I only get on here every 2 weeks or so, and I find I have a lot to catch up.

take care
Don W

[Dennis Simmons]

Try applying a coat of Slick 50 one Lube, on the contact points with your finger.