Tapered legs

[Ed Calkins]

Simple question I hope. I have three legs for a table I am trying to make that I want to taper. The legs are (or will be) 17.5" x 4" x 4". I want to taper them (from about 6" down from the top) from the 4x4 dimension to 2" x 2" at the bottom of the leg. I have a good bandsaw with a 1" blade and was going to mark the taper and cut by hand and then run the tapered surfaces over my jointer. I think this will work. I also have a 10" table saw and have read about taper jigs -- but being I am cutting a full 4" I would have to run each taper through the saw twice. What would you pros do to cut this taper. One added thing, the wood is Ash and I only have three legs (each with three pieces of Ash laminated) so I can't make trial runs unless I make up some fir legs or something. thks, Ed

[Frank Drew]

Ed,

Do you plan to taper just two faces -- the traditional approach for tables with four legs -- or all four faces?

Sometimes when cutting tapers it's necessary to tape the offcut back on the leg in order to provide a level surface for riding on your saw table in order to make the next cut; alternatively, cut the taper almost all the way, leaving the offcut hanging on by a sixteenth or so, for the same reason, then finally finishing and cleaning up the cuts. I hope that makes sense; maybe doing a tapering trial run (doesn't have to be in 4x4 material) will give you a method you like.

[Prashun Patel]

If it were me, I'd bandsaw and joint. I find that safest. You'll be amazed how accurate it turns out even freehanding it.

Also, off the jointer, the surfaces will be much cleaner for finish prep. Make sure yr knives are sharp; ash isn't too fussy, but can chip out.

[Don Dorn]

My method use to be a taper jig on the tablesaw, but now I use the bandsaw and then use a hand plane on the rough edge. The problem in my opinion with the jointer is that the more you run the taper edge on the jointer, the higher your flat area where the apron will become. Be sure to give yourself enough room there. I find more control keeping the leg secure and using the plane.

If you cut with one taper toward the blade and the other on the cast iron of the bandsaw or tablesaw, you only need to turn the leg to the right and run it again. That way, there will always be a flat edge against the fence and on the table. Anyway, my .02.

[Roger Jensen]

I haven't tried it, but I think a long tapered leg would be a perfect use for a table saw 'out fence', as shown on the Rough Cut episode. You would just double-stick tape a straight board to the leg at the proper angle. Here is a video someone posted about use of an out fence: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qmf3WpnRAbQ .

Roger

[lowell holmes]

You can use a jig on the bandsaw as well. Much safer and requires much less horsepower.

I've made a throwdown jig with scrap plywood, stapling or nailing a 1X2 fence to the plywood. Make a small block perpendicular to the fence. It worked well for me.

[steven c newman]

For the size you are looking at, I'd just mark out the tapers, cut the tapers on the bandsaw, and then run them over the jointer. That said, when cutting on the bandsaw, just leave the line, don't go for a "final" cut. Just get it close. On the jointer, start at the "top" of the leg, and push through to the "foot". That way, you are not fighting any grain in the leg. Those legs will be a bit short in the tapered area (about 12" or so), and the angle will be a bit steep. It might be a bit safer to bandsaw to shape, and hand plane smooth. The legs I taper are a bit longer, and a lot thinner ( 1-1/2 down to 3/4", on two sides) so I usually just do the whole taper with a handplane. When I do,I start at the foot, and work back up the leg's taper, until the last pass. The last pass is usually all that is needed, since the taper is now smooth.

[Ed Calkins]

thanks for sharing your experience/expertise -- I think I will carefully mark the tapers (all 4 sides will be tapered) and use the bandsaw and then possibly the jointer but likely a handplane. The wood is more important to me than my time and I will only be making one set -- not production. Thks again, Ed