Assist request please - drying tree "slices"

[Mike vonBuelow]

Needing help with tree slices and the drying process recommendations

See my initial thread HERE (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=152372) if you can help - please & Thank You!

[Scott Hackler]

Mike, you have quite the challenge. Any crosssection of a tree will include the pith which is a bad thing. As a turner, as do most turners, I regularly turn green wood but the very first thing to do is to completely remove the pith to help with the origin of cracks.

Now knowing you cant do that with the sample picture, my suggestion would be to slice it thin. I would try 1-2" max and seal them completely with Anchorseal or parifin wax and store with spacers in a cool dry place. Somewhere like a basement, close to the floor. You are looking at a 9 month to a year drying time, but when the pith is included... slow is good. Any small cracks could be made stable with coffee grounds and epoxy or CA (superglue) and then sand the surface smooth.

Hope this helps

[Ken Hill]

Well, dont cross cut them, cut them on a 60 degree angle, this will help alot.

Id cut them and anchorseal them, maybe leaving the pith uncoated

2 inches would be the size I cut, infact i have to cut some for my wife and will be doing them as described above

[Dennis Ford]

That slice looked like red oak, I don't think it is possible to dry it without major cracking problems. Actually there are very few woods stable enough to have much success drying when cut like that.

[Mike vonBuelow]

So removing the pith is a good thing - ref: reducing/preventing cracking ?

Maybe I can do tree halves.... semi-circles..

Or 60 degree cut... like the pre-fab stuff at Hobby Lobby?

[Dennis Ford]

A 60 degree cut should work. You will still need to control (slow down) the drying rate. Coating both sides with Anchorseal would be one way.

[Mike vonBuelow]

Possible idea...

If I was to remove the pith with a 3" hole saw (or enough to encircle the pith), using the resulting gap as expansion room, and then fill it with something pliable - maybe like the consistancy of caulk, sand, buff, and then laser the design - might that work?

The gap might be disguised as a ring....

[Harvey Schneider]

There is a cedar oil based wood stabilizer that claims to stabilize wood, preventing cracks and minimizing distortion on drying. The product is sold under the name of Turners Choice.
I have used it on occasion and it seems to do what the manufacturer claims. The only down side of using this product is the overwhelming smell of cedar which does eventually dissipate.

[Barry Elder]

Perhaps after cutting out the pith and drying the slice, you could replace it with a contrasting piece of wood.

[James Combs]

Guys/Gals, what about the DNA drying process? Mike, many of us turners treat our green wood turnings with a DNA (Denatured Alcohol) drying process. We rough turn our item and then soak it up for hours to several days depending on it's size in DNA. Something like your slices would be a few days to maybe a week. After the soak we let the item flash-off for and hour or so then the item is put into brown paper bag or wrapped in Kraft paper to dry, typical time is until the smell of alcohol is gone. We would normally leave the inside of say a bowel exposed to the air but I would say in your case to wrap the entire thing in Kraft paper. I would say it is worth a try. Take slice and try it. You should know in 2-3 weeks if it works or not. Also do a google search for DNA wood drying to get more details on this method.

Edit: Also check out the current posting "DNA Container". You will see some pros and cons of the method.

[Bernie Weishapl]

If you do drill out the pith you could use as was suggested some contrasting wood or a similar colored wood. The old saying is it take 1 year per inch of thickness plus a year for drying. There are several methods that are out there but from you post those are some awful big pieces. Even if you did drill out the pith I still would coat it with anchorseal.

[Mike vonBuelow]

If I do DNA, do I still need anchorseal?

And where is the best place to get DNA - esp. in the OKC area, if anyone knows....

[Jim Underwood]

I believe you can get DNA from your local big box store - in smaller quantities. A coatings supplier could probably get you five gallons of it.

You might try using the liquid dishashing soak also...

[Scott Hackler]

Mike, although I am a big fan and practicer of the Dna process I dont think this is a good method for wood that still has the pith in it. The suggestion to go with 60 degree cuts and anchorseal coated, is probably the best idea. The only bad thing is getting the anchor seal off once the wood drys. For turners, its easy because we just turn it off, but for flat items your going to have to scrape it off and sand to get to the bare wood. FYI.


If I do DNA, do I still need anchorseal?

And where is the best place to get DNA - esp. in the OKC area, if anyone knows....

[Dale Winburn]

I've used Polyethylene Glycol [PEG 1000] to soak bowls turned end grain with the pith centered in the bottom. It takes about 2 weeks soaking then normal drying time. The PEG 1000 replaces the water in the wood cells so there is very litle srinkage of the wood. You can find PEG 1000 sources and how to use it on the web.

[James Combs]

If I do DNA, do I still need anchorseal?

And where is the best place to get DNA - esp. in the OKC area, if anyone knows....

I get mine from Lowe's, I have seen it at Walmart, and I am sure Home Depot carries it. Typically in the one gallon size. I have not heard or read of anyone that uses the DNA process also using anchorseal. It's possible but I have not heard of it with DNA. To keep the qty of DNA to a minimum use a heavy duty trash bag as detailed in the "DNA container" post. If it were me I would certainly give it a shot. Try a 60* slice in DNA and see how it goes. One of the advantages of DNA is you can have dry wood in a matter of 2-3 weeks if not days.

[Dale Winburn]

Lee Valley sells PEG 1000.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=20080&cat=1,190,42942

[Mike vonBuelow]

Scott,

I still plan to remove the pith and replace it later.

I'll have the next batch cut at the angle as suggested, but I want to try the 90 deg cuts with the "remove pith/DNA" method to see how that turns (pun intended) out.

[Mike vonBuelow]

James, I do have a Home Depot gift certificate, so I'll stop by there on my way home. I did see the bag thread, thanks!!!