It's Alive!!!!

[Sparky Paessler]

I finally got the motor mounted on my old 12" jointer and fired it up last night. It's a monster. Smelled like old oil so I took the bearings apart and cleaned the oil resievors out put in new wicking and refilled it with Turbine oil. Run great now and no smell. It takes a second or so for that massive cutterhead to get up to speed but it cuts great. I think that I may go to a double belt and pulley setup. Now I need to make a guard!

[Dan Mages]

WOW!! That is a beast of a machine! Is there a cutter guard for it?

[Dave Right]

Nice job on keeping that old monster alive. That will serve you great for a long time. Great accomplishment!

[Sparky Paessler]

Dan

I plan on a guard over the cutterhead, behind the fence, and over the belt. I have stuck my fingers in a jointer before and it's not a lot of fun! That thing is scary without a guard. The cutterhead looks to be 4" in diameter.

[Thomas Prondzinski]

Sparky
Does it have a two blade cutterhead? What speed are you running your cutterhead at? I have a two blade running at 3600 rpm and cuts fine. Looking good. Where did you get turbine oil and why did you chose that?

Tom

[Chris DeHut]

it's an aircraft carrier! Great job keeping it alive.

Chris DeHut

[Rob Russell]

Looks great. What will you do for dust and chip collection?

[Tyler Howell]

Another old warship back on line. Nice Job Sparky

[Jerry Baldwin]

Looks great. I like the "mobile base" you have there.

[Jim Becker]

Looks great, Sparky. If I may, I'll suggest you consider a different switch, however, as you work to complete this restoration project. A magnetic switch is what I'd recommend as the first choice, but if that's not possible for you to do, at least switch :) to a pushbutton unit that has a protected separate "on" switch and an easy to hit "off" switch; usually they are green and red respectively. The advantage to the magnetic switch is that if you lose power while using the machine, it will NOT come back on all by itself when the power to the shop is restored. 'Kinda a safety thing...

A dual belt is a great idea, too, especially if you have something like 2+ hp on that motor. You "should" get even smoother running!

Great tool...thanks for the update!

[Jim Dunn]

I know it's more expensive, but what about a link belt set up also? Should give you a smoother running machine, or would it as this thing is as big as a tank?

[Sparky Paessler]

Thomas
It is a 2 knife cutterhead and I'm also turning it at 3600 rpm. I just ran across the turbine oil at True Value. I used it because it said it was low odor. I was getting some odor from the old oil that was going up into the house. It also seems to run smoother and with less heat now. (not that it was getting hot before. Just a little warm.)

Rob

For chip and dust collection some one has already installed a plate under the tables with a 4" hookup. I will increase that to 6" for my cyclone.

Jim

A magnetic starter is in the works. I just wanted to see if the thing ran first. That is a 30 amp 240volt switch but I do like the fact that a magnetic starter will not restart on you.

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Sparky,

If you come accross a good gaurd design please let me know. I just got a 16" Cresent running and need to cover those scarry blades. :eek: I was thinking about the euro style like I have seen in picture on the combo machines but have never seen in person to get a good idea on how they attach and adjust.

Do you know what your machine weighs? Mine comes in about 1300 pounds and runs quite smoothly without the link belts. :D

[Norman Hitt]

[QUOTE=Charles McKinley]Hi Sparky,

If you come accross a good gaurd design please let me know. I just got a 16" Cresent running and need to cover those scarry blades. :eek: I was thinking about the euro style like I have seen in picture on the combo machines but have never seen in person to get a good idea on how they attach and adjust.




Charles, for you and Sparky both, you should get Jim Becker to shoot you some closeups of his after market (from MiniMax) Euro Blade guard he has on his FS350. I saw it in operation at Austin, and really liked it because it is so infinitely adjustable to give good easy use, yet really protect you from the blade. You could probably make one similar, or even adapt one like his to your machine.

[Jim Becker]

Geepers, Norm...I was out in the shop taking pictures and then saw your reply...

Here are some pictures of the Euro guard. Please note that technically, this format guard is not accepted by OSHA because it leaves the knives exposed (slightly) while edge jointing...they prefer the "pork chop" type guards, but the one I had prior to getting the Euro guard was driving me nuts, especially on the combo machine during switchover to planer mode. (It was getting damaged because I don't have three hands...)

Pics:

1) Face jointing. Material flows under the guard which is raised just enough to provide clearance

2) Edge jointing. Material flows behind the guard. The guard needs to be moved away from the fence enough to clear the thickness of the board...this is where our US safety folks have issue since the adjustment isn't automatic and it doesn't close the gap automajically

3) The mounting end. Knob on the top near the mount point controls height adjustment

[Brian Buckley]

Jim Becker, will this Euro guard fit my 410 Elite? If so what is the MM part number? My 410 should arive any day now.

Thanks in advance

Brian

[Chris Padilla]

Brian,

I have an FS-41 Elite and I have the same style guard Jim does. Just call up MM and ask them to order it for you. When they tell you the cost, moan and groan a bit and they might throw in some freebie knives for you...go ahead, ask me how I know this! :D

[Sparky Paessler]

Jim

Thanks for the pictures they give me some ideas on what I could make for a guard.

[Jim Becker]

Jim Becker, will this Euro guard fit my 410 Elite? If so what is the MM part number? My 410 should arive any day now.
As Chris says, Mini Max can take care of you...the Euro guard for the 410 Elite will be similar but a different part number than my FS350. Of course, the part numbers will be in the manuals that come with the machine, but you need delivery to look it up!! (I suspect yours is in the same shipment as Charlie P's, but you might check with him in case his already arrived...he could then give you the part number)

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Jim,

Thank you for the pictures.

[Jerry Olexa]

Sparky Nice job of restoring...