I want to make a torpedo level

[Trevor Walsh]

I want to build a brass bound torpedo level. Does anyone here know where I can find the level vials, and how to set/calibrate the vials?

I have some antique mahogany and always loved the old torpedoes.

Thanks for any input,

[Jim Koepke]

Occasionally the vials come up on ebay.

The mounting for the vials use cams or set screws to adjust.

jtk

[george wilson]

It is possible that Starrett sells them. I THINK I read that on another forum.

[Deane Allinson]

I repaired an old rosewood Stanley. I bought a big box cheap-o with a glass vile for the replacement. The old one was set with plaster.
Deane

[Bill Houghton]

or http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/levels.html or Starrett.

My hardware store sells replacement vials. You should be able to find them at tool stores or lumberyards that sell to contractors, if your local hardware stores are dreadful; or the online sources I suggest above.

Vials come in "fast"/less precise and "slow"/more precise curvatures. The choice of vials depends on what you want: a level suitable for, say, kitchen counter or pipe leveling or one for machine leveling.

Traditionally, they're set in plaster of paris or something similar. This makes them non-adjustable, so you'd best get it right when you set them. The cast iron Stanley levels, and other brands, are adjustable.

I was tempted to start with, "First, you catch a torpedo," but that wouldn't have been much helpful.

[george wilson]

By the way,the best vials are straight,and ground barrel shaped on the inside. When I made the Brinkley surveyor's compass,I just took lab tubing,heated and bent it a little bit,melted one end shut,and drew the other end out to a neck. I filled the vial with liquids,finding that only turpentine would not burn or boil away while I melted the TINY neck shut. I didn't want to just putty mine shut,because the old vials frequently have leaked dry. You couldn't see the ends of the vials when they were installed under their brass sleeves.

[Trevor Walsh]

I may hunt around for some vintage vials, I like that better than a new replacement part. My intended use will be furniture, built-ins and finish carpentry try work, but if I can nail down a method of producing really accurate levels I'd shoot for as accurate as I can make...

George, I am not surprised you have some input here. By lab tubing I assume you mean glass tube, like test tube but smaller? Did you use a propane torch to do the heating? and how did you temper the glass so if didn't shatter? to melt an end shut did you heat the tube and roll it against a wooden/steel plate to shape it like they do in glassblowing?

I've found an article that talks about calibrating an engineer's level, which takes care of that end of it, now just to figure out how to make the vial and make it adjustable (if I didn't use plaster).

[David Keller NC]

You can get new-old-stock clear level vials in various lengths and diameters from Andrew Stephen at Inchmartine tool bazaar in the UK. These might be your best bet since Smallwood was a rule & level manufacturer, and their NOS would've been intended for levels. Here's the link:

http://www.toolbazaar.co.uk/Spares.asp#6

[Trevor Walsh]

Thank you David, this is perfect, I think I will go with these and attempt George's method later next year. I'd really love to be able to say I made my own level vials, in a very ornate brass bound mahogany level... Oh my dreams.

[Ken Pywell]

Hi Trevor, I have some old Stanley levels of various lengths. Original Stanley boxes, packed in sawdust. I can check later today. Do you know what size you need?
Ken

[Johnny Kleso]

I want to build a brass bound torpedo level. Does anyone here know where I can find the level vials, and how to set/calibrate the vials?

I have some antique mahogany and always loved the old torpedoes.

Thanks for any input,

Stanley had them for sale very cheap..
If you cant find any contact me..

http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/levels.html
I just checked the website and I see no clear vials listed but if you call them they have some still in stock..

Stanley Parts:
call Lori at Stanley. She can tell you of subsitute parts available which may not be listed on that website. Her number is 800-262-2161 ex 55839

[Mike Brady]

Look here: http://www.woodstore.net/torpedolevel.html
I have made two of these, which turned out quite satisfactorily. Sorry I can't post photos here. Probably one of the more beautiful forms in the hand tool world, and most anyone on this forum could readily build one. A kit containing the vials and brass material is available too, with full size plans.

[Trevor Walsh]

Cool Mike, I did see this kit. I'm going to put a lot more brass on it that that, so I figured I could get as much headway out of buying brass and parts separate than a kit and more brass. Did you use mahogany for yours as well or something else?

[Mike Brady]

Trevor, I used used zebra wood on the first one; which ended up looking like some form of exotic BB plywood. The second one was curly maple, which was very handsome. When you say more brass than the one I made, you muct be planning on forming the brass and perhapps soldering it to fit on the curved surfaces?

[harry strasil]

I want to make a torpedo level! I just can't let that opening slide past.

Adjust the internal gyroscope. LMHO,

Sorry!

FWIW, I think they used water glass to set the old vials. its much harder than plaster of paris and doesn't dissolve if it gets wet.

I reset a couple of old machinist level vials with water glass in the past.

[Trevor Walsh]

You got it, Mike. I'm not sure I'll solder, but I want brass wear inlays on the bottom, decorative brass on the top ends, decorative brass over the horizontal vial. And for good measure more dec. brass on the face ends. It will without a doubt be the most highly adorned tool I own. Which is out of character for me, but I'm just really take with the idea of some fancy brass on this thing.

Harry what in the world is water glass? Do you have a recipe or where is if found?

[Bill Houghton]

I want to make a torpedo level! I just can't let that opening slide past.

Adjust the internal gyroscope. LMHO

Or just prop up the low end.

[harry strasil]

Trevor, all hardware stores used to carry it, its a powder you mix with water.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate

[george wilson]

I should have kept track of this thread. The glass tubing I used on the Brinkley compass was just Pyrex glass tube. No need to temper,etc. just heat the end up. It will seal itself. You could help it shut a bit if you wanted to. You can put a gentle curve into it to make the vial,too. I necked down the other end to a small,thin neck. Put in turpentine,and heated the end shut. Every other liquid I tried(water,alcohol,etc.) evaporated from the heat too quickly while sealing the neck. Turps did to,but more slowly,and left a decent size bubble.

You could just seal the end with putty like most do. I wanted to make sure mine wouldn't leak dry over time,as many do.

[Trevor Walsh]

Ah, I get it George. I'm going to give this a shot sometime and post how it worked out. Though that may be on my 3rd level, how did this happen? I'm planning projects, and all the sudden I'm planning on making my own vials for the mysterious third level I'll build?

Boy do I feel carried away here. haha.