Paint for MDF

[Jim Baker]

I am making a desk for LOMLette out of MDF and Poplar. This is my first time working with MDF.

Do any of you painters out there have any recommendations for priming and painting the MDF? Someone earlier mentioned using oil, rather than latex for interior painted furniture projects. I can get whatever is needed, but typically buy all of my paints from Sherwin Williams.

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Jim, I have used Latex on MDF, and had excellent results. I prime the surface first, using a Latex Based Primer. I follow the prime coat using Latex Enamel, and I usually apply 2 finish coats. With the advance in Latex Finishes, I find them more than suitable for MDF applications, especially is using a good quality paint, like Sherwin Williams. The only difference I can see would be that the Oil Based Primers are thicker, but that can be offset with 2 primer applications, or an application of another finish coat. Besides that, I much prefer Latex over Oil when it comes to clean-up. The last MDF I painted, I used a Rustoleum Product, Latex Enamel that was just awesome to use. The color was a bright red, gloss enamel, and it flowed out just like it was sprayed, and dried glass smooth. (I used a Purdy Brush, and brush quality makes a ton of difference when applying any finish. The place not to skimp when painting furniture projects is the brush..........get a good one, and properly cared for, it will last a lifetime.)

[Phil Phelps]

Am I going to spray or brush? If I'm brushing, I'm using a china bristle brush for oil (alkyd) paint, and a nylon (synthetic) bristle for water base paint. MDF is porus, so you must fill, or build, the paint for a smooth finish. I use a broad knife and spread on joint compound and scrape it smooth. Dries in minutes, then sand off the residue. That alone saves two to theree undercoats. If it is a large area and you are brushing, you're going to have a tough time with latex. I prefer oil because the strokes lay out much better and, it is a tougher product. However, you can build a color with latex, sand it really smooth, and clear coat with poly for added protection. And, a much smoother finish. Sanding latex is tricky. Too much pressure and it balls up. It's rubber, you know. When I use latex for this purpose, I use flat, no enamel.

If I'm spraying, I'm using lacquer or polyeurethane. I'd still fill with joint compound, but I'll use automotive primer for the undercoat.

Also, because I'm in the exhibit business I buy direct from the laminate distributors. Therfore, when using painted finishes on furniture, especially a desk top, I'll choose a laminte for the top and have a paint mixed to match the laminate. Home centers can order any color from whom thy buy.

[Paul Dwight]

I don't like latex paint for furniture projects. Its big advantage, flexibility, means it never really gets hard. For my painted furniture projects I've used oil-based enamel, which works well. I thin it with acetone and spray it with an HVLP unit. 'Course, it can be brushed, too.

One of these days I'm going to try the acrylic paints Jeff Jewitt sells on his website, www.homesteadfinishing.com. He says they're especially well-suited to furniture projects.

Hope this helps. -- Paul

[dntsdad]

This is all MDF and poplar sprayed with Sherwin Williams CAB Acrylic Lacquer sprayed from a Binks Mach1 sl HVLP

<img src="http://pages.sbcglobal.net/dntsdad/pictures/poolroom3">

[Dave Avery]

Nice work Jason...

[dntsdad]

thanks Dave.

That was a fun project.

jason