Handle # 2 take 3

[Robert Culver]

Ok Im thinking Im getting really much closer now. I hit the areas George mentioned again and its getting better. Some have asked what finish I plan to use. Honestly im not sure yet thats still in the air. I did qualisole on #1 and while it is a great finish for somethings im sure I dont like the fel of it on a saw handle. The last 2 I just refinished I did with teak oil and buffed in a coat of bees wax like that alot better. I like the Idea of wet sanding with shelac to fill the pores but never hve done this is it trick at all. Do you need to work fast because of the drying of the shellac? Can you do a oil finish over the top of it? I included pic one to show the progress. I thought it was interesting.


http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/ac193/culverrp01/handle2.jpg



http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/ac193/culverrp01/take3.jpg



As always Im still open to c & c

Thanks

[george wilson]

Looking better every time. You still need to get the lamb's tongue to taper more evenly. It is still thicker about half way around the last curve than it is where it touches the cheek.

The cheek needs to be beveled all the way down,not just at the flat area at the end.

Lastly,make a smoother "U" shaped notch at the top of the handle. Yours has straight sides veeing inwards (is veeing a word ?) Should have round edges throughout.

I hope you haven't beveled the front edge of the handle too much. Don't bevel it any more there.

The handle IS getting better. You can look at the photo yourself and see what I mean about the needed corrections.

I feel bad that you don't have a decent way to clamp your work. As someone has said,2 wooden hand screws can hold the work. Clamp one on the handle,and use the other to clamp the first clamp to the table. Harbor Freight clamps will work just fine.

Have you been able to find my crosscut handle in FAQ ?

[Marv Werner]

Oh, yeah....that lamb's tongue really looks nice.

Too much of a notch up at the top though. That should only be about 1/8" cut max. However, if you are personalizing the shape, it's your own design and people can either like it or not.

For my taste, I like a more swept back upper horn. One that just sorta lays on the web between my thumb and forefinger. I don't like it digging into my hand.

I made a customized handle for a No.12 saw plate and actually tipped the back tip of the upper horn upward just a bit. I'll try to find a picture.

The angle you cut at the front looks good, but I prefer that angle to be more toward the back at the bottom with just a small radius at the bottom. And lots of radiusing around the edges of the cheeks.

You should always know where you will be drilling the screw holes and the medallion so you don't end up having the head of a screw too close to an edge. You should shape the cheeks according to where the heads of the screws will be.

I like how you have rounded off the hand grip so the radiuses blend with the flat sides. That makes for a very smooth feel when you grasp it and will move nicely in you grasp as you use the saw.

I have tried all kinds of finishes. I'm now using Deft brand clear spray-on Lacquer. Takes quite a bit of steelwooling to knock down the slight orange peel it produces, but it sure leaves a nice smooth finish. I usually give it about 4-6 coats. I apply paste wax using 0000 steelwool and work it right into the Lacquer finish. Then I hand rub it with an ordinary paper towel. The clear Lacquer does a good job of accentuating the grain and Lacquer is more durable. Think guitars. You can use Lacquer over BLO if you allow the BLO to thoroughly dry and that can take a week. I'm too old to wait that long, so I just go with the quick drying Lacquer. I can apply 6 coats in one day if I don't take too long a nap. :D

[Marv Werner]

George,

Right word, wrong spelling..... :)

"Veering"

Just a thought regarding how someone decides the shape of their handle. I'm not sure there is a specific right way or wrong way to do the shaping. What is appealing to the maker can very well be much different than to everyone else.

Here might be a good example. The maker of this handle might have been quite pleased with his/her masterpiece.:D

[Robert Culver]

I think the U notch at the top is a tad to deep as per the pictures I have seen. It dont look bad but... next time I will just put it in with a rat tail file instead of cutting it in with a saw, I will have more control that way. the bevel at the front should be fine with the hardware at least it looked like it would I will find out for sure whan I get holes in errr. thanks for the replys guys all very helpful Nice handle Marv.:)

[george wilson]

If necessary to save the handle,you can re drill the holes in the blade with a carbide tip masonry bit,but you need a drill press,and run the bit fast. The heat will take the temper out of the blade,and scoop the metal right out. Be careful you don't get the bit TOO hot,or the brazing will let the tip fall off.

VEERING ??? I don't think so,Marv. The side doesn't VEER off. Cars veer off the roar.

[Marv Werner]

George,

Oh I see, I miss read it. You meant V,ing. or Veeing. My spell check doesn't recognize it as a word.