Best Way to Remove Burnd Marks

[Mike Goetzke]

I made a ton of face frame components and a few had burn marks on the off cut side (that got used for the next piece). This is the first time I've gotten so much burning. My blade is within 0.001" front to rear of the left slot and the fence is 0.002" to the right at the rear. I did notice since day one that the fence is about 0.004" concave right at the blade. I messed with the fence but the burning seems always to be on the off-cut. I'm using euro steamed beech for the first time but if it were residual stress wouldn't I expect to see some burns on the right of the blade too?

Now how to remove the burns. Do I just sand, stack/run through the drum sander, taks a small cut at the jointer....etc

(any help with the saw alignment appreciated too)

Thanks

[Craig D Peltier]

It could of been tension causing the burn in the wood. As far as removing it , simplest is to either belt sand or side stack on drum sander even quicker.

[Jamie Buxton]

Jointer if edgegrain. Sander if endgrain.

[Chip Lindley]

If your faceframe pieces are still straight after ripping, a stress-related problem is doubtful. Misalignment of your fence to the blade should show burning on all pieces; not just some.

Sounds like your blade needs cleaning, or could be getting a bit dull. Degrade in blade sharpness is such a gradual thing. Really hard woods make it more obvious. Hard maple is the worst for me. Beech would be right up there too.

As to cleaning up the burned edges, use a fresh card scraper. It will remove just the area you need to remove.

[Shawn Christ]

As to cleaning up the burned edges, use a fresh card scraper. It will remove just the area you need to remove.

+1 on the card scraper. I used to sand out burn marks and had no idea what I was missing!

[Mike Goetzke]

If your faceframe pieces are still straight after ripping, a stress-related problem is doubtful. Misalignment of your fence to the blade should show burning on all pieces; not just some.

Sounds like your blade needs cleaning, or could be getting a bit dull. Degrade in blade sharpness is such a gradual thing. Really hard woods make it more obvious. Hard maple is the worst for me. Beech would be right up there too.

As to cleaning up the burned edges, use a fresh card scraper. It will remove just the area you need to remove.

Thanks to all for the help. Chip may have something with the blade. I was ripping and I had my WWII blade in then I swapped it out for a Freud glue-line rip and it significantly reduced the burning.

[David Weaver]

Now how to remove the burns. Do I just sand, stack/run through the drum sander, taks a small cut at the jointer....etc

(any help with the saw alignment appreciated too)

Thanks

A smoothing plane.

[Karl Brogger]

For me, I don't care if there is burn marks, you still gotta do something to remove the kerf marks anyway. I run all face frame stock through the planer on edge to do just that, also ensures consistent sizing.

[Don Dorn]

A smoothing plane.

+1 Set it to take about .001 and give three or four strokes and your done. If I don't have any room to move on width, I use a scraper.

[glenn bradley]

+2 on card scraper; quick and area specific.

[Lee Schierer]

When I cut multiple narrow pieces from a wide piece, I run the off cut side across the jointer before making the next cut. This gives me one good side on every piece.

I would try shimming the center of the fence to make it straight or build a shop made cover to go over the fence that is flat.

[Mike Goetzke]

When I cut multiple narrow pieces from a wide piece, I run the off cut side across the jointer before making the next cut. This gives me one good side on every piece.

I would try shimming the center of the fence to make it straight or build a shop made cover to go over the fence that is flat.

This is a Biese fence on my 2-1/2 year old Uni. Doesn't look like an easy way to shim the current face (l assume the fasteners are burried under the face veneer).

[Chip Lindley]

This is a Biese fence on my 2-1/2 year old Uni. Doesn't look like an easy way to shim the current face (l assume the fasteners are burried under the face veneer).

Sheesh, Mike! The original Bies fence faces were held on with double-sided tape. I can't believe Powermatic's AccuFence and "others" have trumped Biesemeyer/Delta by providing wrench slots in the bottom of their T-square fence tube. Those make it easy to adjust the faces by loosening the 1/4" bolts held in T-slots in the plywood faces.

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If your fence tube has no adjustment slots, perhaps a putty knife can be shoved behind the face to insert a thin shim.
~Chip~

[David Cefai]

I had exactly the same problem over the weekend and posted here. European Beech, burned mostly on the side away from the fence.

Like others I plane away the burn marks before the next rip.

Beech seems to burn easily, even when routing it.