Donut chuck. Anyone have a Step by step guide?

[Ron Bontz]

I did a quick search and did not see a step by step on making one. Is there one out there? Do you leave the face plate fastened to it? Can multiple sized hole inserts, similar to router table inserts, be used? :confused: Thank you.

[Jim Sebring]

The one I made about a year ago was a very simple affair. I dedicated a Don Pencil faceplate to it. The base is made from 3/4 inch Finnish plywood for stability. Each of the 'donut' rings is made from 1/4 inch Finnish ply. I started with a 4 inch ring and added three more rings, in one inch increments. I glued thin tool chest liner (from Harbor Freight) to the base plate and added rings of the same stuff to each of the pressure ring openings. I went overboard and used 8 bolts to hold it all together. Four is probably enough.The system works well.

[John Keeton]

Ron, Jim has listed some good material choices - though I used 1/2" all over. I think the pressure plate needs stiffness. Let me add some ideas gleaned from using mine.

I used a 3" faceplate from PSI - works great.

Use only three bolts - much easier to get tightened down and plenty of holding power. I haven't had a piece slip.

Bandsaw several "rounds" to bolt up to your base, and true them all up at one time on the lathe. Place a mark all along the edge at one of the bolt holes so that you always mount the rings the same each time.

Set the bolts in a little way from the outside edge to allow room to true up the discs. Make sure to get the bolt holes in a concentric circle. I was not careful enough with this and mine is a little out of balance.

The length of the bolts is limited by the distance your faceplate is from the headstock of the lathe. You may want various sets of bolts in different lengths depending on the application.

I turned my holes, and made the sides sloping so it would conform to the form/bowl, and provide a wider bearing surface.

I used "T" nuts on the back of the faceplate, but wish I had countersunk nuts, and put a dab of epoxy to hold them in place. My "T" nuts come lose a lot when the chuck is disassembled.

If you are going to use a threaded MT spindle adapter with you chuck mounted in the tailstock for alignment in the donut chuck (and you should), remember that the hole in the donut ring must be large enough to go over the chuck.

I use the drawer liner as well, except on the hole. It would work there, but I have used foam tape.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=166782&thumb=1&d=1289346620 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=166782&d=1289346620)

[Thom Sturgill]

I used 3/4 ply for the back and 1/2" for the fronts ( I made 4). I used 6 bolts (sometimes I only use three of them) and my main expense was buying a range of bolt lengths. I like to use carriage bolts and find that I can tighten them sufficiently by hand, and they do not have sharp edges to catch on your hand while turning. Flat head machine screws would work well too.

I used tee nuts on the back plate, but I recessed them and expoxyed them in place because, like John, I had problems with them coming out on the one I made for the midi lathe. Like John I bolted all of the face plates down and trued them all up at once and marked a line next to one of the holes so that they could be put back on in the same orientation. Turn the openings in the plates with a slight bevel and cover the bevel with self-stick craft foam. Draw concentric circles (I used 1/2" spacing) on the back plate to help you center your bowl.

Unlike those listed above, I used a Beall tap to thread a maple block which is glued and screwed to the back plate. My first one was made with MDF and sealed with shellac. It has held up well for about 2 years since I made it for my Jet 1220.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Ron, try this. These are great tools to have.:)

http://azwoodturners.org/DoughnutChuck.pdf

[Thomas Canfield]

The chuck I made uses 1" plywood 15 1/2" D (largest scrap I had at time) with closed cell foam (really too soft) from McMaster Carr on 3 1/2" Pencil faceplate. I have 6 bolt holes on diameters from 8" to 14" and typically only use 3, and one set of 3 on 6" BC. I have 3 large holes (1 1/2" D) on 5" D angled to allow shining light inside workpiece (suggested by Kelly Dunn). My donut plates are made from scrap 1/2" and 3/8" plywood with the holes cut on taper to give better fit, and carriage bolts hammered to fit flush and hold bolts. Poly tubing (1/2" D or so) is slit lengthwise (drill hole in board and pull out across razor blade) to wrap the tapered opening and provide cushioning for workpiece. I made a rack to hold the 5/16" carriage bolts in 2" length increments from 2 to 6", washers, and wing nuts. I also have some all thread and coupling nuts for longer lengths.

I plan to make a larger one to make full use of the 20" on Powermatic. Only change I know of now would be to use a firmer foam. It has worked well. You do need several different plates to have the different hole sizes to fit the contour of the workpiece. I try to install bolts as close as possible to workpiece and use opening size to get a solid fit on the slope and provide most access to bottom. Donuts are handy, and sometimes require an insert (PVC pipe or similar) inside a natural edge workpiece, but imagination is limit.

[Jim Burr]

Watching this in earnest...because I need one badly!...could one of you gentlemen post a picture or several on the faceplate side? I had in mind an aluminium faceplate, but have a lack of knowledge on attaching it to the backing of the plywood. Massive photos and experience would be appreciated!

[James Combs]

I used 1/2" ply for mine with 4 carriage bolts and wingnuts. I have one master plate that has the largest hole I thought I would need. As I need new sizes I make them out of smaller OD 1/2" ply and screw them to the front of the master plate to reduce the hole size. That way I can use what ever piece of scrap plywood I have that is just bigger then the master plates hole to make it smaller. I screw the new hole piece onto the master plate using existing holes in the master then bolt everything up tight to the backing plate and then true up the new plate and also make the new hole in it at the same time by gouging through the new piece in the diameter that I need.

Works great for me. BTW I do the concentric circles on the backing plate too except my are at 1/4" intervals.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Watching this in earnest...because I need one badly!...could one of you gentlemen post a picture or several on the faceplate side? I had in mind an aluminium faceplate, but have a lack of knowledge on attaching it to the backing of the plywood. Massive photos and experience would be appreciated!Jim I don't know if this will help or not but here is an old link of one I made. The extended block is only there to clear the motor on my old 1442 Jet Lathe. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=40779 :) Expand the photos all the way as they are pretty big.