Router on right or left?

[Bruce Seidner]

I am refurbishing a contractor saw and building a table saw extension table for the uber long Vega Pro 50" fence I have picked up. Given the size of this puppy I want to include my router in this development project. I am replacing the left and right extensions. The right extension will be 27" x 54"(it rips to 50") and I am undecided on the left but it will likely be 27" x 24" (or 36").

My question has to do with where to mount the router plate. I plan to use the table saw fence as the back bone for the separate and removable router fence that will mount to it.

It makes sense to me to mount it on the left of the blade, on the shorter end of this mobile aircraft carrier. It is closer to the business end of things. But I can mount it anywhere I like really. I don't have a rationale and would appreciate any advice.

[Myk Rian]

If it were me, the router would be to the far right side. Being on the left, it would be in the way most of the time.

[Harlan Coverdale]

Mine is on the left side. I also attach my router fence to the TS fence, and it's just easier for me to work off the same side of the fence as I do with the saw. The router is not in the way at all as long as I don't have a bit in it, and I don't have a bit in it when I'm using the saw.

[Jaze Derr]

If you are going to use the table saw fence as part of the router fence, then I would mount the router on whichever side you normally have the fence, otherwise you are going to have to lower the blade and move the fence down to the other end all the time.

Every table saw I've seen has the fence to the right of the blade, so I could put the router at that end.

[Josiah Bartlett]

It depends on the fence, I guess. If you have a Biesemeyer style fence its easy to lift the fence up and over any obstructions.

I have mine in the middle of the right table on my Unisaw, which is 50 inches wide. I don't really like it over there all that much. It still interferes with stuff. It's too far away from the T slot to do anything useful, and I didn't build the extension table deep enough to add a new Tslot by the router. Since I tend to use my rip fence on both sides of the blade, but also tend to do my crosscutting and mitering on the right side of the blade, in the next iteration I'm going to put it on the left and get a new blockoff plate, so I can just take the router out and cover the hole when I don't need it. Or, maybe I'll just have a cutout on both sides.

I like to have the T slot close enough to the router to use it for coping stuff.

[Harlan Coverdale]

If you are going to use the table saw fence as part of the router fence, then I would mount the router on whichever side you normally have the fence, otherwise you are going to have to lower the blade and move the fence down to the other end all the time.

Every table saw I've seen has the fence to the right of the blade, so I could put the router at that end.

I lower my blade when I'm not making a cut, so that's not an issue for me. I don't set up to use the router and saw at the same time.

[Curt Harms]

I have my router on the right because there's no room on the left side of the saw to stand. I also thought I'd use the T.S. fence for a router fence as well. I did for a while but didn't care for it. I'd have had to make some sort of sub-fence in order to have dust collection. I had to move the T.S. fence if I wanted to use the other function, then try to get it reset repeatably so I can rip another rail or stile 'cause I messed the first one up:o . I made a second stand alone router table fence that uses the T.S. fence front rail and a second clamp on the rear. That way I can use the router and still rip up to about 12" wide without moving the router table fence. If I had a wider table to the right I'd be able to rip wider. Bear in mind that a router table fence doesn't require being parallel with anything like a T.S. fence does. It only has to be straight, have movable faces to be able to adjust for different size bits and have dust collection(for me at least).

[Ruhi Arslan]

With the TS-LS system I have, my router table is on the left side. I keep the both the blade and the bit below the table if not in use therefore no interference. I could not recall at any time router was in the way. Having it on the left side was a needed for me because I use the same fence for both. Also, having the table surface extended on the left provides the extra support for the long pieces to the left of the blade. The rails are shifted towards farther left then normal to support the router table too.

[Dave MacArthur]

I like it on the right, if you have a wide extension table on the right. I also use the biesmeyer fence as the base for a router fence that fits on top of it. With the router over to the right, it is totally out of the way for all TS cuts except sheets, which aren't happening when I'm routing. It also gives me a "dedicated table end" for each function, left for TS, right for router. More importantly, if you are going to build some sort of dust collection/router table cabinet under the router, then it usually needs to be out under the extension to avoid the motor cover. I actually DO find I use both saw and router at the same time, particularly when I'm making small trim molding--I run a bead or edge on a board on the router, walk around table and rip the molding clear on the saw. I also found that I can just clamp my "over-fence" for the router down and still use the biesmeyer for the saw.

Here's a pic of my setup from my old Delta Contractors saw, you can see the router fence on top of the Tsquare. I don't have it set up in my PM66 now (selling it) but that's how I had it there, and haven't gotten it built for my SawStop yet.

[Will Overton]

[QUOTE=Bruce Seidner;1556424] But I can mount it anywhere I like ... [QUOTE]

Then that's exactly what you should do.

It doesn't matter what others do, because we all have different shop set ups and different work habits. If the router will be mounted to a drop in plate or lift, you could cut a hole in each extension and drop the router in wherever/whenever. The side without the router can have a drop in filler, or leave it open with a trash can under it as a place to toss off cuts.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

To what ever side your table saw blade does NOT tilt in. I've got a left tilt saw (R4511) and did my extended table to the right and filled out the space between the rails.

I often use both the table saw and the router in the same steps and being able to slide the fence hither or yawn for what ever I need to do is nice. I've yet to have either get into the others way.

[glenn bradley]

My extension is on the left. Same feed direction suits my floor plan and work flow. Jigs and fixtures can be used on both machines. I spaced my RT miter slot the same as my TS in distance from the cutter; tenon jig and other slot dependant fixtures move back and forth easily.

My motor cover of my left tilt saw is on the right. My overarm guard's mast is on the right, my DC path exits to the right. In the end it is a personal choice but, having an RT on the right would not work for me and would be a concession. For someone else, the RT on the left would cause feed path issues or be a comprimise in some other way. There is no correct answer; just what is right (or left) for you ;-)

[Dan Karachio]

This can be like religion or politics with no right answer. I have mine on the right - way on the right. The disadvantage is you have to support it with legs or a cabinet because it is hanging out too far from the main table of the saw. Some say feed direction is a disadvantage to right side, but I don't see that as relevant to me and my shop. I have the Bench Dog unit and it is the one to beat out there. I used their fence and not my table saw fence for the router. The advantages are that unless you are ripping something over 20ish inches, you can have BOTH your table saw and your router table up and running and switch between them any time you want. Imagine having your router fence and bit height set up perfectly for some cut, but then you need your table saw. Left side, you are screwed. Right side, you are golden. Some people here are, I am certain, so skilled and organized they can plan out all their steps in any project, but I don't have that rank! Also, there is plenty of room underneath it on the right so you can build a nice little router table type cabinet for dust collection and bit storage (so now you negate the disadvantage of support mentioned above).

[Jim O'Dell]

One thing that kept me from building my RT into the table saw is the cyclone duct. It is in the way on the right side. I don't use the left side of the blade at all, thus both saws have the rails moved far right for cutting sheet goods. So I built a separate RT. Now, if I was more space challenged than I am, and I'd love to have more space as it does get pretty tight in there, I guess I'd have to go put it in the contractor saw right side as that is farther away from the ducting. No comfortable way to put it on the left side of the cabinet saw in my set up. Jim.

[Bruce Wrenn]

My vote goes for the left side. Build a separate fence for the router. This way, you can profile edge of stock, and then rip it free from original board. Plus feed dir3ction is the same as saw. But the right side of my saw is against a support column.

[Dan Karachio]

Okay, why hasn't anyone thought of this yet. What all really need is two router extensions, one on each side!

[Bruce Seidner]

It is reassuring to know that when I am bumfuzzled and ambivalent, I am in good company. I am building up one of those air craft carrier mobile TS centers on casters for my garage shop. It has to fit under a tall work bench, out of the way when not in use. But it will be long given a 50" Vega Pro fence. I have liked the plans that combine component or individual boxes for the saw, router, storage, that then screw to each other and to a mobile base. Since I will be using the Vega fence across the whole table it makes sense to attach a router fence, with dust collection etc. Rather than having a separate fence. But time will tell. I will have to see how this plays out but with the TS dust collection and motor, etc. There is likely going to be more room down on the right side of the extension table. Although given a 6" dust port under the TS it might be more efficient to keep the router to the left and need less ducting. I admire the people who can draw out a project or use sketch up. I don't "see" a project until I have begun assembling it. Not the most efficient or productive method but most everything is one-off and it gets interesting to see how it evolves.

I was looking for phenolic plywood and you would think I was asking for cheese in China. I tried all the advise I previously received on this forum but no one in the concrete forms business or any of the specialty plywood people in East TN had any supplier. We have a Woodrafters but the phenolic ply they sell is only 24 inches wide and it is about $50 a sheet. I did not like the Formica I was finding, also around $50 a sheet, so I went to a Piedmont Plastic store they have here and found a 4'x8'x 1/8" sheet of HDPE that I am experimenting with. There is expensive specialty glue that is said to bond to HDPE, but i will be using a flat head carriage bolt called an elevator bolt, countersunk to keep the top in place. The only force on it will be the sheer of wood passing over it so I don't think it will need many bolts to keep it in place. An engineer friend expressed concern that I not cinch the bolts tightly because that might deform the HDPE over time and introduce wrinkles. New material to me but it is really tough and really slick. Should be interesting.

Lots of great ideas and experience from one and all. Thanks so much.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Okay, why hasn't anyone thought of this yet. What all really need is two router extensions, one on each side!

Actually... I'd seen someone do just that before.

Bruce: I demand pictures of what you do with that HDPE... :)

You might find that the glue is only meant to bond it to itself, so trying to lam it to a sheet of plywood might not work at all. Your plan for the carriage bolts is much better and you'll only need four. Just be mindful of compression warping.

At any rate, sounds like you're onto a plan.. Looking forward to seeing what comes of it. :)

[Rick Davidson]

Not to hijack, but I have been thinking of putting my router on the left. I have a right tilt saw with 50" rip capacity, but the right of the saw is against a wall. Rather then add a table to the left for the router though I was thinking of having the left wing of my saw machined any reasons not to do this?

[David Thompson 27577]

[You said a bunch of stuff, then you said.....]
It makes sense to me to mount it on the left of the blade, on the shorter end of this mobile aircraft carrier. It is closer to the business end of things. But I can mount it anywhere I like really. I don't have a rationale and would appreciate any advice.

Mine's on the left.

In addition to the available space, you need to think about bit-rotation-direction, and workpiece movement direction. When a router is mounted upside down in a table, the workpiece needs to travel on the left side of the router bit.

Certainly, that's possible with the router mounted left or right. But it's something you need to think about.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Put it this way... Router on the right? Feed direction is from the BACK of the saw forward... Router on the left? Feed direction is from the FRONT of the saw backward, just like the table saw.

Me? I don't mind working from the back forward and my shop space doesn't inhibit it. But which ever side you choose, you still need that open work space flow on that side to ensure you have safe work movement.