Tablesaw Burn Marks

[David Cefai]

I've been ripping 2" thick European Beech on my 2HP tablesaw. This is probably the toughest job I've thrown at it in its relatively short life.

I get slight burn marks on the piece next to the fence and much more marked ones on the other one.

Can anybody suggest what is causing this? Not so much the burn marks as the difference in intensity.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Not sure what's causing this, but the best way to remove the burn marks is to cut the piece maybe 1/8" oversized, then move the fence to the final position and skim cut the burned edge off. The skim cut keeps the blade cool. because one side is exposed and the chips clear easily.

[Caleb Larru]

I am assuming you are using a ripping blade so try speeding up your feed rate a little bit and see how that does.

[Jon McElwain]

The two things I would look at first would be the blade and the splitter. A low quality or a dull blade will tend to leave burn marks - specially on hard wood. With a sharp, quality blade you should be able to stop the work piece mid cut, let the blade spin a few seconds, then continue the cut and have no burn marks. A splitter that exactly matches the width of the blade will help keep the wood from pinching together on the out feed side and pressing the fresh cut edges into the blade. Again, the splitter should match the blade width.

[Neil Brooks]

In addition, is your fence parallel to blade/miter slot ?

[David Cefai]

Thanks for the input gentlemen! In fact the feed rate is slow - I can't go any faster without the motor slowing. I assume that the stock blade is not of the highest quality and I could do with a sharper one.

A thought: Is a 40 tooth 10" blade a ripping blade or should I be using something less toothy?

I'm still puzzled as to why the burning is more intense on one side of the cut.

[Maik Tobin]

I'm still puzzled as to why the burning is more intense on one side of the cut.

Neil hit the nail on the head....your fence and blade are likely not parallel

[Joseph Tarantino]

i'll hazzard a guess that the fence is, assuming it's to the right of the blade from the operator's position, toed away from the blade on the outfeed side of the blade. this would cause the offcut material to be pulled into the blade as the operator keeps the material against the fence throughtout the rip cut. at the same time, it could also cause the material against the fence to show burn marks if the front edge of the blade is slightly too close to the fence.

whenever i've had burn marks on rip cuts, it was either blade/fence alignment in nature and/or a dull blade. proper table saw alignment is critical to safe, accurate saw performance.

[Caleb Larru]

Thanks for the input gentlemen! In fact the feed rate is slow - I can't go any faster without the motor slowing. I assume that the stock blade is not of the highest quality and I could do with a sharper one.

A thought: Is a 40 tooth 10" blade a ripping blade or should I be using something less toothy?

I'm still puzzled as to why the burning is more intense on one side of the cut.


I would definitely get a ripping blade (20-24 tooth) for anything 8/4 and above.

The stock could also have some internal tension that is causing the burn marks but it is most likely because you are using a stock blade. Look into a good ripping blade like Freud or Forrest and a good combination blade like the Ridge Carbide or similar quality.

You will be amazed how well a ripping blade will perform compared to what you are using now. Like cutting butter with a hot knife.

[David Cefai]

your fence and blade are likely not parallel

As far as I can tell they are very parallel. Using a try square from the fence to the blade, the ruler just kisses the blade at both ends.

[Van Huskey]

First, I would definately want a ripping blade with 30 or fewer teeth.

Second, use the 5 cut method (search it here looking at only thread titles, there was a thread in the lst week or so) to set the fence. Be aware that some manufacturers suggest the fence be toed out away from the blade very slightly on the outfeed side.

There could be several other issues BUT until you are using a blade that allows proper feedrate with your thick stock you really don't know if you have a setup problem or not.

[Gary Curtis]

When making my workbench, I used my Sliding Table Saw to crosscut about 18 inches off the end of the top. It is 8/4 European Beech. Just like your wood.

Guess what! I got bad burn marks. And I was crosscutting. I had 4 guys help me maneuver and stabilize the 8 foot top and ran it through the blade too slow. As the other posters suggest, you naturally want a sharp blade. And clean off any residue. But you also want to feed the wood fast enough so that motor has a slight load on it. If you hear zinging it may burn.

Gary Curtis

[Harlan Coverdale]

I assume that the stock blade is not of the highest quality and I could do with a sharper one.

That's where I'd start. A rip-specific blade should help, as has been suggested. Also, if possible, when checking the fence and blade alignment I'd use something that can measure smaller increments than a square. A dial indicator held by a jig in the miter slot would be my choice.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

+1 for a new/sharp blade.
+1 for a rip blade (assuming it's a rip and not a cross cut)
+1 for checking fence || to the blade.

[Myk Rian]

Second, use the 5 cut method (search it here looking at only thread titles, there was a thread in the lst week or so) to set the fence.
The 5 cut method, (actually only 4 since a magazine got it wrong) works with the miter gauge, not the fence.

[Chris Parks]

i'll hazard a guess that the fence is, assuming it's to the right of the blade from the operator's position, toed away from the blade on the out feed side of the blade. this would cause the off cut material to be pulled into the blade as the operator keeps the material against the fence throughout the rip cut. at the same time, it could also cause the material against the fence to show burn marks if the front edge of the blade is slightly too close to the fence.

If I read that correctly then toe out on the out feed side will definitely not cause any binding, at least on my saw. I have never set the fence parallel as I think it is bad practice but I am not a professional so I just do what works for me. On the burn issue try using a sub fence which stops at the leading (in feed) part of the blade, end of problem.

[johnny means]

Burning on one side of the kerf is most definitely an indicator of an out of parallel rip fence. Also, the fact that the fence side is the side being burned makes it a particularly dangerous situation. IIf you don't have a riving knife you are at a real risk for kickback, even with one you run a high risk of material ejection. Adjust your fence immediately. If you don't have the tools to achieve true parallelism, toe your fence away from the blade slightly.

[Josiah Bartlett]

You definitely need fewer teeth for a cut like that- you are loading your blade up with sawdust.

[Lee Schierer]

+1 for a new/sharp blade.
+1 for a rip blade (assuming it's a rip and not a cross cut)
+1 for checking fence || to the blade.

I'm with John except I would invest $20 in a harbor freight dial indicator and check the saw alignment before doing anything. I set my fence exactly parallel to my miter slot and the blade is parallel to the same miter slot. Also check to insure that you drive belt is tight. If the pulley is slipping you aren't getting teh full 2 Hp from your saw.

[Matt Kestenbaum]

+1 for a new/sharp blade.
+1 for a rip blade (assuming it's a rip and not a cross cut)
+1 for checking fence || to the blade.

Two additonal adds, since they were not mentioned already:

1) use a square to ensure the blade is a true 90 deg. to the table -- don't rely on the saw's bevel markings alone.

2) make sure the blade is raised to the point where the bottom gullets almost about clears the surface of the stock.

[glenn bradley]

Beech is burn prone, DAMHIKT. 24 tooth blade and a good steady feed rate yield the best result for me.