Garden Shed Foundation

[Josh Rudolph]

I am clearing a spot to build an 8' x 12' garden shed to house my garden tractor and other yard type tools. I plan on building a lean-to off of both sides to house my yard implements on one side and the other will be a lumber air drying rack.
I have a JD 318 garden tractor, so it is a bit heavier than a lawn mower. So my question is what type of foundation do I need for this shed?
Building on a cement pad is not an option. As soon as I put down concrete it requires a permit. I wouldn't mind going the permit route if it wasn't $100. That money could buy a decent bit of quality lumber!!:D

So do I need to go with a skid foundation or build on concrete piers?

Thanks for your help.

Josh

[Carl Carew]

Be careful concrete piers may also put you in the permit line, i our area the difference in being taxed on the shed is the total squae footage I believe over 8 X 10 or a permanant foundation and any size. I have a John Deere tractor in mine and I used pressure treated 2 X 4 on 12 inch centers with 3/4 plywood floor, its about 20 years old and still solid no sagging.

Carl

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Around here a permit is required for anything larger than 100 sq ft (8x12 is safe) and I think there is something that it needs to be considered "moveable" - i.e. not secured to, or on top of, any sort of permanent foundation.

My 8x12 shed has either 2x8 or 2x10 floor framing (16" OC) that sits on some concrete blocks on each corner. Definitely 'moveable' as it's been moved once. There has been some slight settling of the blocks that needs to be fixed, but that's because where it's sitting now was backfilled a few feet deep (by the contractor during some major landscaping) for the express purpose of putting the shed there - so I'm not too upset that it settled. It holds my Husqvarna 48" cut lawn tractor just fine.

[Don Bullock]

Josh, if you plan to include electricity for lights, etc. that may require a permit as well.

[Josh Rudolph]

Carl - I mis-spoke when I say concrete piers...they are really the concrete blocks you buy and set a a floor joist on...not sure how to explain what it is...just have to see it I guess. I would almost bet you have seen what I am talking about.

100sq.ft. or more, plumbing, or electrical requires a permit.
John - like you said...movable is the key here also.

The shed will have 2 windows in it which I hope should give me my needed light when I actually need something out of there.

I am back and forth between the concrete block foundation or the skid. The concrete blocks puts all of the load on the corners and the skid distributes it pretty evenly. Deep down I think I want to do the skid foundation, but am not excited about that much ground leveling work.

Concrete block would likely require 2 x 10 joist
Skid - I would likely go with 2 x 8 joist
Either would be at least 16"OC and may even consider 12"OC just to be anal retentive about it.

[Dan Rude]

I would consider going to 10 X 12, I regret not having the extra room on the sides when I built my 8 x 10. Also look at where your windows are if you are going to use the wall for storage. I put mine on the sides, but loose wall hanging space for tools. Consider Skylight roof Vents for extra light.
As for the foundation, a sled on concrete blocks is what I used, leveled them and let the grass die. Pressure treated 3 4”x 4” x 10’ with 2” x 4” x 8’ crosswise on top, 12” spacing. Topped with ¾” Pressure treated ply. I have never had a problem with the floor and I’m sure it would hold a tractor no problem.

[Thom Sturgill]

I am back and forth between the concrete block foundation or the skid. The concrete blocks puts all of the load on the corners and the skid distributes it pretty evenly. Deep down I think I want to do the skid foundation, but am not excited about that much ground leveling work.

Do both. Use solid concrete blocks to support and level the runners. Use 4x4 treated runners and 2x6 @ 12" on center and it would support your heaviest WW machinery much less a garden tractor. This site (http://shedsdonerite.com/) has some good info on spacing and framing options.

[Josh Rudolph]

I would consider going to 10 X 12, I regret not having the extra room on the sides when I built my 8 x 10. Also look at where your windows are if you are going to use the wall for storage. I put mine on the sides, but loose wall hanging space for tools. Consider Skylight roof Vents for extra light.
As for the foundation, a sled on concrete blocks is what I used, leveled them and let the grass die. Pressure treated 3 4”x 4” x 10’ with 2” x 4” x 8’ crosswise on top, 12” spacing. Topped with ¾” Pressure treated ply. I have never had a problem with the floor and I’m sure it would hold a tractor no problem.

Dan,

I would love to go bigger, but really don't want to fool with the county and permits. The $100 permit is the real hangup. I already have 2 windows that I had purchased 2 years ago for an eventual garden shed. I think they are 24" wide. I should still have around 9' of wall space on both sides and then the entire back wall. I don't really have that much garden tools to hang on the walls either.

I am pretty set on doing the skid foundation. I will run 3 - 4" x 4" x 12' PT beams length wise and then build my joist on them with 2" x 6" x 8' at 16"OC.




Thanks for the input everyone, getting ready to head out and continue clearing to prep for the gravel base.


Josh

[Rick Moyer]

I didn't build one, I bought one, just recently, too. I put down about 6-8" of 2B stone compacted, and they brought the shed and manuevered it spot on. It has 4x4 runners under the sub floor, every two feet. I went with 12" centers for the floor joists and 3/4 plywood for the floor as well. Also housing a JD tractor (jealous of your 318 though!), as well as lumber, push mower, chipper, misc other garden stuff. I love it. I had to get a zoning permit but no building permit required up to a certain s.f.

[Rick Moyer]

Here is the new shed. It seems to be quite sturdy. I think you will be fine with your plans.

[Don Bullock]

Josh, have you priced prebuilt sheds such as Tuff Shed? I'm serious. Several contractors here in Southern California have told me that they can't build a shed for themselves cheaper than buying one from Tuff Shed. They claim that they can't buy the materials locally for what one costs. One of them has two Tuff Shed buildings in his back yard. Perhaps in your area material costs are lower or you don't have a local supplier of prebuilt sheds, but you might want to check into it. Caution -- Some prebuilt sheds only have 24" on center studs.

[Dan Rude]

Josh,
Here a couple of Pictures of my shed. I still haven't gotton to the trimwork. I would make the doors lighter though. Have fun building.

[Josh Rudolph]

Josh, have you priced prebuilt sheds such as Tuff Shed? I'm serious. Several contractors here in Southern California have told me that they can't build a shed for themselves cheaper than buying one from Tuff Shed. They claim that they can't buy the materials locally for what one costs. One of them has two Tuff Shed buildings in his back yard. Perhaps in your area material costs are lower or you don't have a local supplier of prebuilt sheds, but you might want to check into it. Caution -- Some prebuilt sheds only have 24" on center studs.

Don,

I did look at pre-built and the cost for a basic shed is the same...then it is just my time. Since I enjoy these types of things...I don't mind the time investment. For the more "deluxe" versions...I can put in the features I want and not some of the extra fluff that they tend to upcharge you on. $110 for a shelf is a bit much in my opinion. I got 2 small windows at a yard sale for cheap, I have bracketing and lots of spare/scrap lumber that I can build shelving and pegboard (I am not going to build pegboard :eek: - wow would that be a tedious task). I have never built a shed, and have only framed a few walls. So I am building more for the learning experience than anything. I will also be able to guarantee that things were done correctly and if something is wrong...I am the one to blame.

I cleared the spot today and will likely have 3 ton gravel delivered tomorrow. Bad thing is, they can't get the truck to where the shed is going. So it will be dumped in the driveway. Distance from driveway to shed site ~120 yards!! 3 ton is a bit extra than what is needed, but I have some uneven spots and I hope to go ahead and spread gravel out far enough for the lean to's I plan on building off of each side. So I figure I will be pretty worn out tomorrow.

Josh

[Charlie Stone]

My wife wants me to build her a garden shed that looks like the TARDIS from Dr. Who. She especially wants the part where it is bigger on the inside.

[Don Bullock]

It sounds like you're on your way. Enjoy the build. In my case my time is more valuable to me. Besides, my skills are in furniture, not carpentry.

BTW -- Yes, places like Tuff Shed do have "large" upcharges for windows, etc. That's one reason when we wanted a second shed on our property to use as a kennel for our dogs I called in one of my contractors.
167024

The 10'x12' kennel is fully insulated and is finished on the inside with melamine sheets instead of drywall to make it easier to clean. It has a HVAC unit, two skylights, two windows and a regular style door with a window that opens. Four dog doors connect the kennel to three dog runs and the adjacent yard.