Chamfer or Edge Tool of Choice

[Steve Friedman]

What tool would you use to put a chamfer or rounded edge on an odd-shaped piece? I have several irregularly shaped pieces where I want to create a rounded or chamfer edge. I realize I could just use a knife or some sandpaper, but I was hoping for something that would create a more even result.

I have tried spokeshaves, but never seem to get a real straight finish. Do I need a dedicated chamfer or roundover plane? If yes, any suggestions? What about those small model makers block planes?

Thanks

Steve

[Sean Hughto]

I think you need to be more detailed about the "irregular shaped pieces" in order to get good answers, but maybe these would work?

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=58664&cat=1,230,41182

[Tony Shea]

I was going to say a finely tuned spokeshave until I read on further. This is my tool of choice for rounding edges of odd shapes. I really enjoy using my spokeshaves, especially for this application. There is just a great satisfaction for me in creating this small detail with this particular tool. I look forward to this work every time it comes up. Sorry that this is not of much help to you but just what I chose every time. I like the imperfect edge that is really only noticable to my eye.

[Steve Friedman]

Thanks Sean,

They've been on my wish list for a while, but I'm not trying to do legs. I have chair parts cut from 1 x 6 and 1 x 8 stock and just need to ease the edges.

Steve

[Pam Niedermayer]

I think you need to be more detailed about the "irregular shaped pieces" in order to get good answers, but maybe these would work?

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=58664&cat=1,230,41182

Thanks so much for that link, Sean. I've been looking for a couple of those forever, all of them being way too expensive on the 'bay.

Pam

[John Coloccia]

I use Ibex curved finger planes. Really I bought them to shape guitar braces and things like that, but the small ones will get into just about anywhere. I have a 25mm one that's so tiny you wonder how to even hold the thing...and they make smaller as well. Considering their size and how cheap they are (less than $50), they're actually very well made tools, and when set for a light cut can be very accurate.

I have the LN model maker plane (flat sole) and I consider that to also be an indispensable tool. Again, extremely well made and works great for chamfering convex edges. Not so good for inside curves. It's very rare a day goes by that I don't use that plane, second only to my Veritas LA block plane.

[Bill Houghton]

It may be a matter of practice; or accepting that you won't get a machine like finish with a hand tool (although, with practice, you can get pretty darn regular edges).

[Andrae Covington]

What tool would you use to put a chamfer or rounded edge on an odd-shaped piece? I have several irregularly shaped pieces where I want to create a rounded or chamfer edge. I realize I could just use a knife or some sandpaper, but I was hoping for something that would create a more even result.

I have tried spokeshaves, but never seem to get a real straight finish. Do I need a dedicated chamfer or roundover plane? If yes, any suggestions? What about those small model makers block planes?

Thanks

Steve

I bought the chamfering attachment (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=46296&cat=1,41182,48942) for my LV low-angle block plane and used it on nearly every edge of my workbench. You can adjust the size of chamfer you want, lock the screws down, and plane away. When both sides of the guide are touching, the plane will stop taking shavings.

It works great on long edges, and is ok on short edges... the plane needs enough room to register on the work to maintain a consistent chamfer.

Even with long grain, I found that the far end wanted to blow out (but I was working with douglas-fir, which splinters if you look at it), so I would start against the grain going only a short distance, then finish off with the grain. It will tear out against the grain just like any planing so the trick is to take that end down enough to prevent splintering, then plane the whole edge down to depth going with the grain. Cross grain also needs to be approached from both sides.

I also have these cornering tools (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=45501&cat=1,230,41182,41200) from LV, but I've never used them. They are small enough that they could probably handle curved edges.

[Tim Sgrazzutti]

If all you need to do is ease the edges so they're not sharp, a drill rod rubbed against them works, and is fast.

[Steve Friedman]

Wow, some great suggestions. Thanks.

I have the LV cornering tool (actually have both versions of that tool), but find that my spokeshaves are easier to use. I've been eying the LN model maker plane for a while and it may be my next purchase. The LV version is a little less expensive, but the LN version has a much thicker blade.

Tim, not sure I know what you mean by using a drill rod - actually not sure what a drill rod is. Do you mean just using something to crush the edge so it's not sharp? That actually sounds interesting, since I'm really just trying to relieve the edges slightly and don't care if it's rounded or chamfered - just that it's not a sharp edge. I could even use sandpaper, just prefer not to.

Steve

[Andrew Gibson]

If I was looking to just ease the edge of a piece I would most likely just use some fine sandpaper, however I have used everything from a spokeshave to a rasp.

on my Hello Kitty rocker I drew lines with a compass and used my Gramercy saw handle makers rasp to create roughly an 1/8" round on all the corners. It worked very well and made it easy to get into the tight corners and keep nice lines going. that could not be done with a router.

[Brian Kent]

Inexpensive and accurate:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=46321&cat=1,50230&ap=1

[Steve Friedman]

Inexpensive and accurate:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=46321&cat=1,50230&ap=1


Thanks. I have seen those. Since the blade is straight, I assume it gives you a clean chamfer. What makes them different from regular spokeshaves?

Steve

[David Weaver]

They are a low angle spokeshave with a rosewood (or something similar) body. They're good quality and have a decent iron. If you have a low angle wood shave already, figure they work about the same - a little less tippy and with better reference than standard stanley BD shave.

If you've ever held a mujingfang plane or looked at one, I think those are probably made by muji. I have the large one.

There was some prep work in getting the cutter ready, but no more than you'd have if you got an old low angle shave.

[Dustin Keys]

I've used the shaft of a screwdriver before to do this. I'm not saying that's the best way, but it certainly has worked for me. This was mainly on guitar fretboards, but I've done it on other projects as well.

Worth noting, I'm a complete newb to woodworking so keep that in mind. This worked for me in a few applications, but without seeing what you're working on I don't know if it's a good idea for your project.

Dustin

[Jim Koepke]

My tendency is to use block planes for this task. Though bench planes up to and including a #8 have been used at times.

It all depends on the wood and how much is to be removed to determine which plane. There are a bunch of block planes in the work area and they are all set to different depths.

Most often lately the #102 gets the job. This is usually set up for an extremely light cut.

I also have a "Radi-Plane" that works well if the grain is cooperative. Any grain change and that will cause some splintering.

jtk

[Carl Carew]

For my money the cornering tool is the way to go. I was introduced to then in the early 1970's when I took woodworking classes in a night vocational school I still have my old stanley ones. I don't think you can buy stanley any more but Lee Valley has them. They come in two sizes with two edges on each tool the smaller has I believe 1/16 and 1/8 inch radius and the larger has 3/16 and 1/4 I tend to favor the 1/8 size and after you use the tool you can quickly dress it with sandpaper if you want it a little bigger. No need to buy a sharpening tool all you need is a section of dowel the size of your radius and some 320 or and 400 grit wet dry paper The tool is a pleasure to use and has a very short learning curve

Carl

[harry strasil]

I have a set of Stanley cornering tools that work perfect. Lee Valley has them and they are more or less inexpensive.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,230,41182,41200,32682&p=32682

[harry strasil]

You can also make your own using a card scraper edge. Drill a hole near one edge then cut out a V as shown and using a chain saw file file the round edge smooth, hone the front and back sides, and then round a bit of the 90° notch sides close to the edges as a stop, ( the rounded surface will skate on the flat surfaces and act like a depth stop), then just use like a card scraper on either inside or outside edges.

[Roy Griggs]

I'd recommend using a scraper; lay it across your edge at 45* and run your chamfer...about the same as using a drillrod except a little crisper. It's quite easy to make small scrapers to run beads, or quarter rounds and other simple shapes, and even more complex shapes in small quantities.

[Terry Beadle]

I use my Blue Spruce paring chisel for small pieces that need edge champhering. One of the practice drills Frank Klause demonstrates on his video is how to hold a chisel and champher edges. With practice the paring chisel is very controlable and can get into very small areas.

[Tom McMahon]

I'm with Terry once you get used to it champhering with a chisel it works very well and eliminates tear out due to grain changes.

[steven c newman]

The spindles on this little Quilt rack were done, not on a lathe, but with a spokeshave, and a block plane. Edges taper to a knife-edge, the "round' parts was done with a spokeshave. Rough cut to a profile in 1/2" thick stock. :cool:

[John Coloccia]

You know, I really like that you didn't go crazy making all the little curves and exactly the same. That would just ruin the look and feel of a piece like this. Just trust the eyeball and make them all nice but let each one have it's own story to tell. Nice.