Jointer question

[Milind Patil]

I recently got a real sweet deal on local Craig List for a brand new (I mean, the box in shrink wrap) Ridgid 6" Jointer JP0610. Just assembled it and ran a piece of 2x2 and got amazingly smooth flat surface. I never used a jointer before. So this was a very thrilling experience !

Anyway, I just decided to check how accurately parallel is the cutter. So mounted the dial indicator on magnetic base, placed the magnetic base on the outfeed table and checked the the cutter at both ends, and found that the cutter is 6 thou off from front to back vertically (over cutter length of 6 inches, so about 1 thou per inch). Meaning, the back end is 6 thou higher than the front end (with respect to outfeed table). The question I have is, is this acceptable runout ? How much runout a good jointer can have ?

[Tom Hintz]

I also use a dial indicator and can get my jointer knives within 0.001" of perfectly parallel to the tables. I would try to get them down to 0.002" of even across their full length. You can live with a bit less accuracy than that but you have the indicator so take your time and get it as right as you can.

I know we are talking very small increments here but being able to dial the knives in (all of them is very important) has made my jointer's work way better. Also the knives live longer because they are all working equally.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Congrats on your CL score! I just got that same jointer, and it looks like everything is well adjusted except for the blades (I have at least one blade that looks to be a little higher thanthe others). that type of "runout" should be easily adjustable so that the blades are better aligned with the outfeed table.

[Pete Bradley]

It's not runout, blade height adjustment. It's doubtful that you'll notice .006, but .004 or less is considered ok for a 6" jointer and you can probably get it better than that with a lot of fiddling. Take a look at the manual on how to adjust blade height.

Before you start, verify that you can repeat your measurement method (for example if you need to move a mag base. Otherwise you could drive yourself crazy chasing measurement variation.

Believe it or not, the "straightedge just ticking the knife" method is also extremely accurate.

Pete

[Ted Wong]

Sounds like it would be a bit much for me. I usually dial down to within .001.

[glenn bradley]

For my dad's knifed jointer we took a piece of glass about 5" x 12", super-glued 3 rare earth magnets about 1/2" back from one 5" edge. Set the glass on the outfeed table, magnets up and magnets near the cutterhead. Loosen the knife enough to be adjusted, slide the glass (and therefor the magnets) over the knife. The knife is pulled to the glass and you carefully tighten the retainers. Repeat for all knives and yo will probably be much closer than you are now with very little effort.


Here's a very quick and inaccurate pic ;-) HTH

[Chip Lindley]

It's not runout, blade height adjustment. It's doubtful that you'll notice .006, but .004 or less is considered ok for a 6" jointer and you can probably get it better than that with a lot of fiddling.

Pete

In bygone dayzz, the fiddling got really tedious trying to adjust knives to within .002" or .003" of each other. With the advent of "jack screws" the process is painless and a no-brainer. The use of a dial indicator is really not necessary except to quantify measurements in your own mind.

You can adjust each knife within .001"-.002" of each other with the jack screws, the knife edge just brushing a straightedge held across it from the outfeed table. This insures all knives are same height and perfectly parallel to your outfeed.

Do it this way, then measure with your dial indicator. See how close you got! Once knife height is set, press down on the knife with a block of wood to keep it from "squirming" as you tighten the gib bolts in a criss-cross pattern.

[Milind Patil]

Thank you very much guys. I will follow these instructions, and will get the knives closer to 1 thou. The glass & magnet method sure sounds genius and got my attention.

[Pete Bradley]

In bygone dayzz, the fiddling got really tedious trying to adjust knives to within .002" or .003" of each other. With the advent of "jack screws" the process is painless and a no-brainer.
I'm familiar with jack screws. I'm also familiar with jointers equipped with jack screws lifting the knife off the screw when you tighten the gibs. Don't know if this one will do that but I wouldn't say fiddling is guaranteed to be bygone, especially for a newbie.

For those playing along at home, the solution is to hold down the knife with a block of hardwood while tightening the gib., and not to back of the gib screws much at all when adjusting.