How was this done before power tools?

[Andrew Gibson]

OK I have been searching the Internet on and off now for a couple weeks trying to absorb some knowledge about instrument making.

My question is how was the binding channel cut on instruments prior to electric routers. My thought is that some form of router plane was used, but I can find no information on the subject. Maybe a marking gauge could be used to score a line, then a router plane used to remove the waist?

George I bet you know more about this subject then my brain could absorb in a week.

I imagine when I decide to embark on my Uke build I will end up using the router, but I would like to know how it was done in the "old days".

[Bill Houghton]

I know almost nothing about guitar-making, but would a purfling cutter work?

[Andrew Gibson]

I know almost nothing about guitar-making, but would a purfling cutter work?

I would assume that a purfling cutter or something similar would be used to score for the channel (rabbit) my understanding is that the purfling cutter is used to create a groove for the purfling after the binding has been installed. I'm still trying to figure out how the waste is removed, and if there is a specalized tool to do it, or is it done with a chisle and or router plane.

[Gaz Palmer]

A purfling cutter can be used to for both purfling and binding. The waste falls away once the cut is to depth.

[Andrew Gibson]

A purfling cutter can be used to for both purfling and binding. The waste falls away once the cut is to depth.
That would make sense score from both angles and once the 2 scored lines meet the waste will fall away.

I was just thinking that there might be another method used in order to keep from potentially brusing the edge of the cut. I guess you just have to not attack it like you had way to much coffee.

[george wilson]

Every guitar we made in Williamsburg had the binding channels cut by hand. I made purfling cutters,but you can still buy them. They aren't hard to make. You cut the groove around the top or bottom of the instrument first,then re set the cutter,and scribe it around the sides,continuing to cut every stroke deeper until the rabbets for the bindings were cut.

Frequently the sides would just be cut through down to the liners and the top and back cut down to the liners. Then,the sides could be peeled away from the liners by separating them from the glue line. Additional rabbets for purflings inside the bindings would be cut with the purfling cutter using repeat cuts till the cut was deep enough. Then,the bottom of the rabbet would be removed with a hand chisel,or you could use a small hand router of the "old woman's tooth" type.

[Andrew Gibson]

Thanks George, It's all beginning to make sense to me. I am starting to get excited about starting this project.

[Gaz Palmer]

I was just thinking that there might be another method used in order to keep from potentially brusing the edge of the cut. I guess you just have to not attack it like you had way to much coffee.

Keeping the bevel of the blade to the waste side helps you avoid bruising exposed edges and - as George confirmed - waste can be removed via chisel, router or allowed to fall away as the two cuts merge. Waste removal depends upon the complexity of your inlay work.

The purfling cutter is simply a variation of the cutting gauge, but intended for use on radii/curved work as well as straight and comes in many shapes and sizes. Mostly shop made.

[Trevor Walsh]

If you go to St. Roy's site under watch episodes, then in season I think it's 2008 there is a violin maker on. He shows the tools of the trade, including cutting the binding groove.

[Andrew Gibson]

Thanks Trevor, I will see if I can find it .

[john brenton]

I'm no master in any sense (I have to say that to keep from being excoriated), but once i have my lines cut I just score straight down along one side with my bench knife and it just comes up. The thickness of the knife is enough to push the wood right out of the groove. It there is any waste on the bottom I scrape it out. My scraper of choice? The corner of my brass dovetail gauge by Kell..it is the exact same size as the purfling. I knew that thing would come in handy for something.

That would make sense score from both angles and once the 2 scored lines meet the waste will fall away.

I was just thinking that there might be another method used in order to keep from potentially brusing the edge of the cut. I guess you just have to not attack it like you had way to much coffee.