Anchorseal 2 and Bowl Blanks

[Rob Holcomb]

I have some log sections (Cherry, Locust, Ash, Elm, White Oak, and Rock Maple) that were given to me and used latex paint on the ends until I could get some Anchorseal 2 at Woodcraft. This weekend, I plan on cutting the logs into bowl blanks (6" to 10" diameters and 3" thick at most). My question is, 1 coat or 2 over the whole blank and how long can I store them like this before roughing them out? I will be making more than 20 blanks and thought I could rough turn them throughout the winter when I have time to work on the lathe. Can I expect the Anchorseal 2 to slow the drying process long enough to work with them several month's from now? Thanks in advance for your answers.

[Nathan Hawkes]

Rob,it really depends on a number of different variables. I am on my 2nd bucket of anchor seal 2, and like it; it's different than others, but I think its a good compromise between the characteristics of the other formulations. You really need to make it a very thick first coat; its somewhat difficult to make subsequent coats even; even though it is wax on wax, the second coats of anchor seal tend to bead up if the coat underneath is completely dry.

Regardless of how thick or two vs. one coat, it is important where you store your coated blanks. Make sure they get NO sunlight--even in cooler weather, this will make checks happen. In addition, if you keep the blanks in a heated, very dry environment, this will also hasten check formation. They will absolutely have dried out quite a bit compared to freshly cut within a few months time, but will still be very wet compared to a kiln dried blank.

Edit; I meant to add; keeping bark on your log sections will keep moisture in the logs longer. Just make sure that they are up off the ground during this time--whatever you have to do-cinderblocks, etc. work. I have pallets up on blocks and put my log sections on the pallets then cover the pallets with a tarp. Hope this helps.