Brick Blanks for Laser Engraving

[Chris DeGerolamo]

Anyone care to share a supplier for laser engravable bricks? I searched the forums and wasnt' able to find any information.

As always, thanks for the help.

[greg lindsey]

I believe you will find that "engraving" bricks is a patented process, it has been discussed here many times. From what I've read they are pretty hard on it too. I am certianally not telling you what to do, or not to do. But I wouldnt advertise it. personally.;)

[Chris DeGerolamo]

I did see the patenting thread and disregarded the fact that you can patent that type of thing (like the denim...what a joke). Thanks for the heads up.

[john passek]

Hi Chris
You can get a Cermark tape from most suppliers that is used for bricks, you stick it down and laser.
I've never used it or seen it being done so can't say how well it works.
Good luck.


Laserbits sells it and has a fact sheet about it.

[Brian Fiore]

May be the process of engraving bricks is patented, but what about "paper weights," which might happen to be made of a stonish material about 6"x3"2"...., or uncut pavers? :)

There are ways around the patent process's description. If you find it (public record) and post it, we can figure out a legal way around the patent, which you can double check with your attorney of course.

[Martin Boekers]

May be the process of engraving bricks is patented, but what about "paper weights," which might happen to be made of a stonish material about 6"x3"2"...., or uncut pavers? :)

There are ways around the patent process's description. If you find it (public record) and post it, we can figure out a legal way around the patent, which you can double check with your attorney of course.

You can apply for an improvement on an existing patent (not sure
on the process or cost)

I believe the main thing is they have to be a clay based paver.

Marty

[Gary Hair]

Back to the original question... I did a lot of research and testing a lot of materials for laserability, well before I knew it was patented to laser bricks, of course. I had varied success with clay bricks and not anything I'd try to make money doing, it took too long and the results weren't consistent. What I discovered after all that was that the bricks that are laserable are what I think are called "dry stack" or "dry" something. It has to do with the ingredients in the brick as well as the mixing process and maybe the firing process as well - I don't know for sure. What I do know is that if you look at the bricks done by the company that has the patent, it's much different than anything you'll be able to do with a laser, or at least one similar to mine. Maybe more power would do the trick, again, I don't know.

I gave up on lasered bricks a long time ago and, instead, use my laser to cut the stencil for sandblasting them. It's MUCH faster, more reliable and I can make way more per hour that way. Plus I can sandblast virtually anything, I'm not limited to what can fit in my laser. I have a 6' x 8' blast room I built in my garage and have a gas compressor that delivers almost 30 cfm - I can blast anything that gets in my way.

If you do find the right bricks that laser well, send me a pm, I'd like to be able to do one-offs with the laser but I'll never do more than 2 or 3 that way.

Gary

edit: here is something I just read on a site that offers lasered bricks, obviously a galvo laser and probably why my co2 wouldn't work on anything I found... "While engraving a message, the laser beam is moved across the brick’s surface by two computer-controlled mirrors and focused onto the brick with a 12″ diameter flat-field lens."

[Michael Hunter]

Do they have to be bricks?
Terracotta tiles (just fired clay, no glaze) work really well.

[Dan Hintz]

Chris,

To answer your question, you want to look for anything made of clay. Michael's terracotta tile is a good example. You're looking for a substrate that goes through the process of vitrification when you blast it.

[Chris DeGerolamo]

I have a possible job where the client has bricks they want etched but here's the thing: they are from a historic building that is being renovated and I'm thinking that due to their age they will be significantly softer. I should be getting a sample brick for testing, but if that falls through, I wanted to have an alternative engravable brick to fall back on. The Cermark tape is an interesting idea, though I personally have had inconsistent results in the past. I am wondering if using the plaster of paris solution posted a while ago will allow the brick to get "hotter" and engrave better.

Dan- I remember you having some lengthy balanced equation for that...I can tell you [all] for sure that the plaster of paris did allow for "better" engraving on steel and aluminum. Any thoughts on applying this to a brick?

I'll post any results I have...

Thanks.

[Dan Hintz]

Chris,

That old-time discussion was about marking stainless steel, and essentially making Chromium Sulfate via the Chromium content of the steel. Here's the equation again (I had a copy on my desk as I write my book):
3(CaSO4) + Cr2O3 + heat + 12(H2O) --> 3(CaO) + Cr2(SO4)3 * 12(H2O)
A proper clay brick has all you need for marking. A cement brick will need some extra "oomph".

[doug cornett]

A great place I have found is Lasersketch. They provide directions on how to engrave their clay brick also. Captain Jim is the best.

[Keith Outten]

Don't bet on old bricks being softer than new ones. I have had to drill holes in bricks in very old buildings to hang signs and most of the old bricks are harder then Chinese Arithmetic.
.

[John Frazee]

About a year ago in a neighboring town they demolished an old high school. We had a group come in wanting us to personalize a few hundred for them to sell for a fund raiser. They wanted an old B/W picture from the 20's and a color from the 90's plus text. We sublimated metal for them to silicone to the bricks. I know it's not the same as an etched brick but may be an idea for you. It was cheaper and quicker than lasering them.

[Jeff Belany]

Someone has patent on lasering bricks and, IIRC denim. Can I get a patent on lasering wood? How about glass? Where do you draw the line? Way too many lawyers in the world.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

[James McCreary]

Anyone care to share a supplier for laser engravable bricks? I searched the forums and wasnt' able to find any information.

As always, thanks for the help.

Laser Engravable Bricks come from LaserSketch.com

[Clark Pace]

How about these bricks.

http://www.lasersketch.com/

[Scott Shepherd]

Y'all do realize this post is 4 years old, right?

[David Somers]

Ahhhhhh. Scott......Some conversations are simply timeless, like fine wine!

Besides, the concept of patenting the burning of a brick or denim is counterintuitive enough that no one new to the forum would ever imagine it. I am still in awe of the concept.

I am currently waiting on the acceptance of my patent for exhaling, and my second patent for inhaling. I was gonna do both inhaling and exhaling as an entire process but figure if I do them separately I have the process bottled up with some flexibility built in on my part. They are patent pending so far and looks like smooth sailing!!! Once it goes through, Katy bar the door!!!! <grin>

Dave

[Mark Sipes]

I attempted to test the validity of your process which you are attempting to patent. I does not work! the pump must first be primed prior to exhaling. so your patent is incomplete and thus will be rejected.

[Bill Munroe]

I have had success engraving letters in bricks and then re-lasering with black powder coat fill.

[Jim Good]

How messy is it with your laser, Bill? Do you get a lot of debris? Any pics?

[Bruce Hoffman]

Someone has patent on lasering bricks and, IIRC denim. Can I get a patent on lasering wood? How about glass? Where do you draw the line? Way too many lawyers in the world.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

Jeff, Dave and the rest of you:

Is anyone here interested in a patented procedure for laser engraving lawyers?
Sort of a modern scarlet letter only on their forehead for a start.
Warning: they tend to squirm a bit when the head is put in the engraving field.
OSHA specifications are followed: eyes covered with safety glasses, no anesthesia required,
just play a recording of your state's ethics code, puts them out for hours.

[Bill Munroe]

Wasn't bad mess wise. Took forever to get a decent depth. I had to run it at 1% speed 100% power. Then I applied powdercoat twice at 100% speed and 10% power (I believe). Gave the test piece away before taking any pics. Will try to do another in the next few days and post.

[Paul Phillips]

How messy is it with your laser, Bill? Do you get a lot of debris? Any pics?
At first I thought you were responding to Bruce's post, but still a valid question, how about it Bruce? I imagine the satisfaction outweighs the mess! :-)

[Jim Good]

Bill, at that speed could you possibly make a decent wage selling these bricks as a fund raiser? Seems like you'd have to sell them at a retail cost to recoup your laser time. I bought a few pavers from Laser Sketch to give it a try. I thought I might try to push a fund raiser towards my church. We moved into a new church this past weekend and have some plenty of acreage for some walking paths. Perfect for some engraved bricks. I see some fund raising possibilities for me (if it's worth it).

[Bill Munroe]

292333 As promised, here's one I did with powder coat. This is one of those 1/2" thick (or so) fascia bricks. I'm using it for a larger project. Ran this one twice at 5% speed, 100% power, 600 dpi. Wound up having to apply the powder coat twice. No patent applied for yet :)

[Keith Colson]

Have you tried using coloured glass powder? My friend suggested I try it, I just need to get my hands on some.

Cheers
Keith

[Bill George]

Powder coating powder is very fine, kind of like dust. Wonder if you mixed with water and applied as a paste? I recall it sets at about 400 degrees F. Harbor Freight used to stock in the stores.

[Robert Walters]

mixed with water and applied as a paste

Maybe even DNA (Denatured Alcohol) if water didn't work.
Would have to make sure fully dried/evaporated before lasering of course.

[Dan Hintz]

Wonder if you mixed with water and applied as a paste?

My guess is you'd get a film on top of the water and big clumps of toner "balls" rather than a paste.

[Luann Brainard]

LaserSketch.com

[Bert Kemp]

You forgot to ask a question :D