Probably a really dumb question......

[Saul Levinson]

I've been using my new Grizzly G0555P 14" bandsaw on many new projects.... but I'm still a novice to woodworking. My question deals with resawing really thick hardwoods (8/4, 12/4 mainly ash and walnut). The books indicate that a good quality 3 tpi 1/2 in. blade should be used, and I've done that. However, the cut, while fast, is quite rough and requires lots of planing to get the resawed planks ready for use. I've recently changed blades to a 10 tpi 1/2 in. raker blade and find, while its slower to cut, the resultant cut is smooth almost to the point that light sanding or a fast pass through the planer is all that is needed to have acceptable planks to work with. Is there anything wrong with using a 10 tpi raker blade to resaw? The difference in speed in resawing with the raker blade is not that bad, and overall saves lots of time and wood in that not much planing is needed. Why do the books recommend a 3-4 tpi blade? Is there something really bad/dangerous in using the 10 tpi blade?

Saul

[Jamie Buxton]

The problem with high tooth density is that the gullets fill up with sawdust on their way through the cut, so the teeth kinda ride on the sawdust, away from the wood you're trying to cut. The result is a slow cut, and maybe overheating of the blade. Lower tpi blades can cut thicker wood.

[glenn bradley]

Is there anything wrong with using a 10 tpi raker blade to resaw? The difference in speed in resawing with the raker blade is not that bad, and overall saves lots of time and wood in that not much planing is needed. Why do the books recommend a 3-4 tpi blade? Is there something really bad/dangerous in using the 10 tpi blade?

Saul

The lower tooth count is more appropriate for resawing in general. There is no safety issue I can think of in using a higher tooth count blade to get a smoother, but slower result. The blade will wear faster so you will have to change them out more often. That is not a safety issue although it is a trade off.

I have run higher tooth count blades for just that reason on occasion. I do not do it habitually. It is more of a "fix" or "recovery" maneuver for me when I cannot spare the extra 1/32" to remove the tooth marks on some matched pieces.

I guess that brings up a good point, if you are having to remove large amounts of material to eliminate your milling marks you may want to resolve that first. After resaw with a 2-3 blade I can eliminate milling marks with very little material removal so I opt for speed and longer blade life. Again, your method does not cause a safety concern that I can see.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> Is there anything wrong with using a 10 tpi raker blade to resaw?

The biggest issue is that it will tend to run hotter. Running hotter can result is the blade dulling more rapidly. If you are happy with the slower cutting and perhaps more frequent replacement of the blade, go ahead and use it.

However, I don't know what blade you are using for resawing. There is a lot of difference in the resaw blades from different manufacturers. I use a Lenox BiMetal 1/2" resaw blade on my G0555 bandsaw. It works very well.

[Jim Rimmer]

I have a G0555X (bigger motor) and I had a Timberwolf 3 tpi blade and was getting rough resaws, too. I got a Woodslicer from Highland, also 3 tpi, and now am getting cuts smooth enough that they just need a little sanding or a very light planer pass. They cost a little more (I think it was around $39 but not sure; maybe $10 more thatn the TW) but in the overall scheme of things a $40 blade on a saw of that price and the offset cost of wasted wood and time, it's not a big deal.

[Van Huskey]

If you are willing to go slow enough there is not an issue. In general in the long haul it isn't very time efficient, particularly if you have a drum sander. This is just like ripping on a table saw with a 80T plywood blade, you can do it but the efficiency is very low.

[bob hertle]

Try a 6/10 variable pitch bi-metal; I use the Lenox. This is my go-to blade for tenons. Zero degree hook, modified alternate set (every 7th tooth an unset raker). I get glue ready tenons at a repeatable thickness, all day long. I've cut tenons up to 6 inches wide with this blade, and the performance has been amazing. The blade never seems to run hot, but even if it did, the hss teeth won't care (up to about 700 deg F or so). I won't go so far as to recommend it for resawing, but for the resawing type cuts that tenon cheeks require, it's a wonderful choice. If you want a higher tooth count blade to resaw up to about 6 inches or so, a Lenox 1/2 inch 6T hook bi-metal is a good choice. Feed it hard enough to keep it busy (assuming you've got enough motor), and you'll get a good finish at a reasonable feed rate in up to 6 inch stock, especially in harder species like maple. Bi-metal is the sweet spot in the price/longevity/performance game! I have a Trimaster, but I think the bi-metal is a better deal.

Best regards

Bob

[Jim Rimmer]

I ordered another Woodslicer today and they are only $29 rather than $39 as i said earlier. With this blade and the saw tuned and aligned well, you should be able to get nice, smooth resawn wood. I was pretty disappointed with the results from my first blade and am so glad I got the WS.

Do you have Duginski's book yet? Or have you bookmarked Van's thread on bandsaw blades. Tremendous amount of good info in both.

[Saul Levinson]

Thanks, all.... for the advice. I did bookmark/print out Van's discussion on blades...very informative.

I ordered the woodslicer blade from Highland Woodworking tonight. Thanks again for the recommendation.

Saul

[Saul Levinson]

Well, I received the Woodslicer blade from Highland Woodworking today. Got it on my Grizzly G0555P, adjusted settings, and WOW... what a difference! The blade tracks straight, and the cut is so clean only a little sanding, and no planing is needed...... and this is on 8/4 10 inch wide Cherry (made 1/4 inch planks). It's hard to believe that a blade could make that much of a difference. With this resaw blade, there is no need to use the 10 tpi or 14 tpi blades that I was trying to use for resawing.
Thanks to Jim and Van, and all, for the advice.....

Saul