Repairing misplaced biscuit cut.

[Brian Penning]

This is all purely hypothetical of course...:o
But IF it were to happen, how could one repair/fill the round bottomed cut made. Cross-grain also. (just to make it more complicated)
I...uh..might even try the solution on a test piece. Yeah, that's it, a test piece made of walnut.
TIA for any and all replies.

[Peter Pedisich]

Trace a bisuit on some walnut offsetting the pencil line a little, continue the shape out to the theoretical intersection points of the ends, bandsaw it out, glue and flush-cut.
Oh, and make sure the walnut is the thickness of the slot!

[Neil Brooks]

First thing that came to my mind: fill it with a mix of epoxy and sawdust from the same wood species.

But ... I'm guessing, because ... I've never done anything even _remotely_ close to that, myself ;)

[Brian Penning]

Trace a bisuit on some walnut offsetting the pencil line a little, continue the shape out to the theoretical intersection points of the ends, bandsaw it out, glue and flush-cut.
Oh, and make sure the walnut is the thickness of the slot!

Don't think that would work using the biscuit as a template because the biscuit is shorter than the made cut, even with extending the biscuit curvature, no?
Might make it close enough though.
Will try that,,,on the test piece.

[Jeff Bratt]

You should be able to get the radius of the cut from the biscuit cutter blade. I'd make a repair piece from similar stock to fill the slot - protruding slightly, glue it in place, then plane the repair piece down to the original surface. Small interior gaps should not make a big difference.

[Walter Plummer]

In another test piece cut a slot with the biscuit cutter then cut off the "sides" on the band saw and keep the curved center for your template. Hope this makes sense. Good luck.

[Howard Acheson]

Is the repair to be made in end grain or long grain? Will the area being repaired be in an area that will show?

Long grain is relatively easy to repair. End grain is slightly more complicated.

[Brian Penning]

Is the repair to be made in end grain or long grain? Will the area being repaired be in an area that will show?

Long grain is relatively easy to repair. End grain is slightly more complicated.

It's more like cross-grain, as in the side of a bookcase. The face frame will hide it somewhat.

[mreza Salav]

It's more like cross-grain, as in the side of a bookcase. The face frame will hide it somewhat.

Route out (using 1/4" bit) the length of it but don't go too deep and then make
a filler piece (like a loose tenon).
If you want to match the orientation of the grain (in case it is visible) it is doable too
(but more difficult).

[Kent A Bathurst]

Route out (using 1/4" bit) the length of it but don't go too deep and then make
a filler piece (like a loose tenon).
If you want to match the orientation of the grain (in case it is visible) it is doable too
(but more difficult).

Bingo - the Voice of Experience, I'm guessing. Square off the rounded router bit slot with a chisel to make what amounts to a mortise, make a filler strip out of similar-grain scrap - maybe even bevel the chiseled "mortise" so it is a bit longer at the surface, and bevel the filler strip also. When you tap it in place, it will fit tightly. Glue it. Plane it. Finish it. With a tight-fitting filler strip, it should nearly disappear - only you and your closest 10,000 friends on the Creek will ever notice - don't tell the neighbors - they'll hound you. Just one more step on the [lifelong??] journey of learning to repair mistakes.