Show me your Shark Guard DC

[Matt Meiser]

I got my splitters last week so I got the Shark Guard another creeker sent me set up over the weekend. I still need to get the DC set up. Its got the 4" dust port option so I'm going to connect it to my DC plumbing instead of to a small shop vac like I had done with my previous overarm guard due to its small port.

I know I want something easily moved out of the way. That was a problem with my overarm guard. I've got a router mounted in the extension table and the overarm got in the way when running things vertically (trimming edge banding for example.)

My DC pipe heads up to the ceiling at the back right corner of the saw.

[Prashun Patel]

I no longer have mine, else I'd post a pic. Here's my lesson learned:

Run a 4" flex drop off yr ceiling straight down down to the guard. That's the only way to keep the 4" properly supported.

The guard fits a 4" flex hose but only with a lot of effort (for me). So, disconnecting it real-time was not an option. Better is to make a quick-connect blastgate decoupling point half way up the drop pipe. When not in use, just remove it, and let the pipe hang, and put the guard (with it's 1/2 pipe) out of the way. When in use, the guard will hold the drop ridgid enough not to require any external strap or support (if yr drop is vertical, that is).

Since the SG decouples with a thumb latch, removing/installing the guard is really cake.

Even if this means you have to add some more bends or distance than optimal from the guard to the dc, don't worry. My system was cobbled together and surely underpowered, and I still rate my dc with the SG as super.

Hope that helps.

[Ed Hazel]

I have a 4 inch flex drop down from the ceiling to the shark guard the blast gate is overhead so when I need to remove the guard I just take it off and hang it up on a hook that hangs down from the ceiling.

[Robert Reece]

+1 on what Ed did. I have about 5' of flex dropped from the ceiling above. When I need the guard removed, I just remove the guard with flex still attached and drop it into a big (36") cable tie that I have looped over some plumbing in the ceiling above. The shark guard just hangs there above the table until needed again.

[Jim Tobias]

Matt,
I've had the Shark Guard for a few months now and it really does the job on tablesaw dust collection. I can rip a piece of MDF and only have a few specs of dust not get sucked up. Mine is connected to the Oneida dust collection system with 4". I ran it overhead and bought a wye and connected into the main trunk line near the collector. I used square aluminum tubing and it supports the weight. If I ever had to, I can swing it out of the way. I did this just in case, but so far have not needed to do so.
The connector sleeve above the Shark Guard makes it fast and simple to disconnect. I don't use a clamp there and do not need one, plenty of suction.

Jim

[Eric DeSilva]

Can you mount your router table on the other wing? I've got a Unisaw w/the 52" Bies fence and the Bies overarm guard retrofitted with one of Lee Styron's plexi guards. But, the whole Bies set up is to the right of the blade, and my router extension table is mounted on the left side. I actually had to do it this way, since the cabinet door on the Unisaw is under the right wing and there was no space. But, it means I don't have to fuss w/my overarm guard hardly at all, and certainly not for using the router. The 4" DC port on the guard goes straight up to a 6/6/4 wye off a DC trunk on the ceiling.

I'm happy to take a pic if it sounds like something that might work for you.

[Matt Meiser]

Eric I could have but its there now and I don't want to redo it. Its no longer my primary RT but I'm keeping it for when I need multiple setups. Bringing it in from up high will actually be easier where I need to tap it in so no problem there.

Do you guys still use a pickup underneath or does the SG get everything?

[Jim Tobias]

I can't tell a difference whether I open the underneath collection or not with the SG.

Jim

[John Coloccia]

+1 on what Ed did. I have about 5' of flex dropped from the ceiling above. When I need the guard removed, I just remove the guard with flex still attached and drop it into a big (36") cable tie that I have looped over some plumbing in the ceiling above. The shark guard just hangs there above the table until needed again.


I have a 4 inch flex drop down from the ceiling to the shark guard the blast gate is overhead so when I need to remove the guard I just take it off and hang it up on a hook that hangs down from the ceiling.

There was just enough room between the DC plumbing and the ceiling that I just wedged mine in there when not in use. :)

[Steve Peterson]

I have a 4 inch flex drop down from the ceiling to the shark guard the blast gate is overhead so when I need to remove the guard I just take it off and hang it up on a hook that hangs down from the ceiling.

I have the same setup. The main 6" PVC line is overhead. I tapped off a 4" line for about 5' of flex hose. The SG hangs on a hook when not used.

I am reminded that it is hanging there because the loop of flex hose twists and changes size every time I turn on the DC. It is a visual reminder that I should be more diligent about using the SG.

Steve

[Matt Meiser]

Here is what I came up with. There's a guy wire to the ceiling that supports the drop since it would have been more difficult to cut in a wye to run it along the ceiling.

Lee says the 4" port might be too big and I think he's right. Even with the 6" gate to the bottom of the saw open, the SG will still suck up any offcut that will fit. Though the nice thing is I can modulate that easily with the blast gate and with just the 4" open on a quick cut there's 0 dust.

[Brad Gobble]

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/sites/forums.finewoodworking.com/files/attach_images/116573/ducting.jpg

this is how i solved the problem ... shop is cleaner now, too!http://forums.finewoodworking.com/sites/forums.finewoodworking.com/files/attach_images/116573/sawfront.jpg

[Art Mulder]

Brad, doesn't that riser on the left get in the way? I think I'd bump into that regularly :confused:

[David Hostetler]

It will have to be later this weekend. Tonight I am taking LOML out for her B-day dinner. (She was in class on her B-day so we opted to do it tonight...).

My setup is really simple though. Ceiling run drop, blast gate approx 6' off the ground, short jumper of flex hose (enough to allow free movement of the SG) connecting the SG to the drop. Connecting the SG to the hose was a bit of a pain, but not horrible. I have yet to do it, but on my to do list, is to build some sort of hook to the drop to allow me to simply unhook the SG and hang it up while still connected to the hose. I need to cut a few dadoes, and the SG is without a doubt in the way...

[Brad Gobble]

Art got me thinkin' so over the holiday season I updated my pickup (and made some cabs, and cleaned the place up)

179749

[Art Mulder]

Holy CleanUp Batman!

You call that "some" cabinets? I call that an immense amount of work, and it looks realllll nice.

[David Hostetler]

Not sure if the pics make sense, I ran a 4" run overhead that drops to the Shark Guard right over the saw, and a 4" below to pick up at the blade shroud and belly pan.
The drops being run...
179819

And the Shark Guard connected to the dust hose...
179818

All in all, with both blast gates open, I am running more or less dust free unless I do something stupid...

I can fairly easily simply hang the guard off of the blast gate to get it out of the way for non through cuts like Dados and such... No problems with connecting / disconnecting...

[Rick Moyer]

How does the Sharkguard attach to the saw?
I have a Grizzly G0691 and just finished up my dust collection plumbing, etc. and I know I will want better collection at the blade. The Sharkguard seems to be one of the best, but I don't want something "permanently" attached. I know it can come off relatively easily but the pics I've seen of user's don't show me how it is fastened.

[David Hostetler]

How does the Sharkguard attach to the saw?
I have a Grizzly G0691 and just finished up my dust collection plumbing, etc. and I know I will want better collection at the blade. The Sharkguard seems to be one of the best, but I don't want something "permanently" attached. I know it can come off relatively easily but the pics I've seen of user's don't show me how it is fastened.

The SG replaces the riving knife, with one that has a series of holes. There is a clamp that binds to the knife, and in turn provides connection for the guard itself. Read Lee's writeup on installing the 8.0 version and better clamp.

http://www.leestyron.com/sharkmount.php
http://www.leestyron.com/newpawls/splitpawlsparts1.jpg

[Erik France]

Looks like the OP got his figured out, but there seems to be some sustained intrest. I don't have any pics here at the office, but I have my ducting coming from above suspended by 4" duct hooks on bungee cords. I like keeping a small amount of tension on the hose going to the guard. I find it easier to pass material underneath it. The long bungee cords allow me to hook the same hose drop onto my extension wing router fence, or just vacum off the top of the table.

[Brad Gobble]

Holy CleanUp Batman!

You call that "some" cabinets? I call that an immense amount of work, and it looks realllll nice.

Thanks Art! You shamed me into it!!! LOL Two sets of cabs: (2) 70" x 30" on the North wall (photo left) and on the East wall I did 92" x 23" and 70" x 23". [side note: also built 12ft of 39" cabs for the LOML's sewing room, which had the result of quashing any complaints about new tools] It was a busy holiday season for sure.

I am getting ready to build custom uppers and lowers in our TV/Entertainment room (over 50 ft of cabs) and I wanted to make sure my process and methods were on track. Made some moderate improvements to how I do things, upgraded a tool or two, still kept the entire shop cabs project under $1k in materials. I have it now down to 1.4 hours-per-foot for uppers, and probably faster for lowers (that includes installation).

I'll post more pics in an appropriate thread soon, but thanks for the support and encouragement.

[Andrew Howe]

Nice shop!

[michael osadchuk]

How does the Sharkguard attach to the saw?
I have a Grizzly G0691 and just finished up my dust collection plumbing, etc. and I know I will want better collection at the blade. The Sharkguard seems to be one of the best, but I don't want something "permanently" attached. I know it can come off relatively easily but the pics I've seen of user's don't show me how it is fastened.


Rick,

The splitter/support column for the shroud is anchored by a racheting handle like this:

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/KNOB-HANDLE-ADJUSTABLE-2IN.-X-5%7B47%7D16IN.-X18-TPI.html

The initial installation is a bit finicky - to line up the splitter with blade, position the handle portion of the racheting handle so it doesn't catch on part of the tablesaw - up once setup, it only takes a an eighth or quarter turn of racheting handle, done by your hand to either loosen or re-tighten the splitter/support column. It's very quick; pop off the zero clearance insert, loosen the rachetting handle, hang up the whole unit, with flexible ducting attached on an overhead hook, replace the zci; takes less time that to type the last two lines.

Lee will provide the correct size rachetting handle for your ts; Busy Bee in Canada, similar to Grizzly, carries it 1/4-20, 3/8-16, 1/2-13 thread size.

good luck

Michael

[Rick Moyer]

Rick,

The splitter/support column for the shroud is anchored by a racheting handle like this:

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/KNOB-HANDLE-ADJUSTABLE-2IN.-X-5%7B47%7D16IN.-X18-TPI.html

The initial installation is a bit finicky - to line up the splitter with blade, position the handle portion of the racheting handle so it doesn't catch on part of the tablesaw - up once setup, it only takes a an eighth or quarter turn of racheting handle, done by your hand to either loosen or re-tighten the splitter/support column. It's very quick; pop off the zero clearance insert, loosen the rachetting handle, hang up the whole unit, with flexible ducting attached on an overhead hook, replace the zci; takes less time that to type the last two lines.

Lee will provide the correct size rachetting handle for your ts; Busy Bee in Canada, similar to Grizzly, carries it 1/4-20, 3/8-16, 1/2-13 thread size.

good luck

Michael
Thanks Michael, but I've has mine on a few years already!:), (see thread post dates)!