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View Full Version : Drawer Lock Router Bits- Worthwhile?



Rick Hubbard
12-26-2004, 8:21 AM
As part of what seems like an endless effort to discover the ultimate drawer construction solution, I’m now pondering whether to try drawer lock router bits. They aren’t cheap, so I’m reluctant to buy just to try.

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Perhaps someone who has used these bits can provide some info about how well they work, how “easy” they are to use, etc.

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Thanks

Bill Arnold
12-26-2004, 8:33 AM
Rick,

I'm curious about the responses to this as well. On most of the drawer boxes I build, I use lock rabbets that I make with a 1/4" router bit. Since this is so similar to the joint one gets with the 'drawer lock' bit, I'm reluctant to purchase one.

Regards,

Herb Blair
12-26-2004, 9:06 AM
I tried one once and found it too much trouble to set up. I use two methods to do drawers now. First is dovetails, and the second is pined rabbet joints.
The pic below shows the setup. I've built a jig to drill the holes for the pins.
I saw a dado the width of the drawer side and the depth of the front less 1/8", then I glue and clamp the drawer, last I come back and drill the 1/8" holes using my jig. The pins are either brass (I used these on tool boxes) or 1/8" walnut dowel.

Mark Singer
12-26-2004, 9:41 AM
I don't really like them...difficult to set up and not really that strong. The Kreg system works well for drawers I had a thread on using it.
Here is the link:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=10546&highlight=kreg+drawers

Clint deal
12-26-2004, 9:56 AM
I use either my Akeda dove tail jig or pocket screws front and back where you don't see them. Both are fast and easy plus strong.
Clint

Jamie Buxton
12-26-2004, 11:40 AM
For plywood drawer boxes, I use a tongue-and-rabbet, which is probably the same joint which Bill is calling a lock rabbet. I make mine on the table saw. It mechanically interlocks, and in plywood it has face-grain gluing surfaces, so it is reasonably strong. It is very fast to make.

For solid lumber drawer boxes, I generally use dovetails, although sometimes I use finger joints. My current favorite dovetail jig is the Keller.

Jim Becker
12-26-2004, 3:46 PM
For those times that I've used the "drawer lock" type joinery for drawers and boxes, I just cut them using the table saw. With a little forethought, it's only a few setups to do the whole run and by using samples, the fit can be very exact. I wouldn't pay for a drawer lock bit, but if one fell into my shop I might use it from time to time...but not often as I prefer dovetails for this kind of thing.

Bill Arnold
12-26-2004, 7:40 PM
For plywood drawer boxes, I use a tongue-and-rabbet, which is probably the same joint which Bill is calling a lock rabbet. I make mine on the table saw. It mechanically interlocks, and in plywood it has face-grain gluing surfaces, so it is reasonably strong. It is very fast to make.
Sounds like we're describing the same thing. I attached a graphic representing the joint. As you said, it's easy to set up. It requires only two setups whether you do it on the tablesaw or router table.

Jeremy Bracey
12-26-2004, 7:47 PM
I have one. Do you want to buy it? (just kidding). It came with a cabinet set. I have tried to use it but it takes to much set up. Table saw is much easier.

mike lucas
12-26-2004, 9:46 PM
I use that joint when ever it is requested. I made setup blocks many moons ago, and I can have the router table/bit ready in less then 2 minutes. But I much prefer to use dovetails. (Which takes longer to setup!) I just think dovetail joints are a sign of quality craftsmanship.

Scott Coffelt
12-26-2004, 10:38 PM
I use it occasionally on drawers for non-fine furniture items. But mainly when the material isn't the best for 1/2 blind dovetails. Otherwise I prefer HBDT's for strength and ease of construction.

Jim Andrew
12-27-2004, 12:37 AM
You need a big router mounted in a table. I have used one with a 3 hp
porter cable. When the blade gets slightly dull it tends to drift and you
get drawers out of whack. It is a big blade, takes a while to adjust, and
is a little scary when you run your drawer sides through. I would prefer
another method of drawer making. Jim

Rick Hubbard
12-30-2004, 7:18 PM
Thanks, everyone, for the input. I've concluded from all this that I should save my money and keep slogging along with my dovetail tail machine.