stain question

[Doug Carpenter]

Do all stains tend to seal the wood like minwax?

I wouls like a stain that still allows oil to penetrate after the stain is applied.

I would like to darken wood and ad layers of blo to get the finish I want.

Is this possible?

[Prashun Patel]

It is possible. Most 'stains' contain binders that seal the wood. The binder is like a varnish. Seals color in, seals other stuff out - like oil.

You should use a DYE based stain or a dye concentrate. These typically do not contain any binder. This allows you to oil right on top. You don't want to do a lot of wiping and rubbing of the oil, because that action will partially redissolve the dye and could cause it to lift out.

Your choice of topcoat (BLO is not a topcoat) will determine whether you need a sealer of shellac on top of the oil. If you are using an oil based top, you can go straight to it after the BLO.

[Chris Padilla]

To add the Prashun's excellent advice:

BLO is not buildable. You can add 100 "coats" of BLO and I doubt the piece will be any darker compared to the first coat.

I look at BLO as an oil stain because that is about all it will do.

As far as your question goes, experiment. Apply your stain...then apply BLO. Next, apply BLO...then your stain. Order can matter a ton or may not matter at all.

[Steve Schoene]

Danish Oil such as Watco is available with color included, as one other possibility. Dye is a great option.

But remember, BLO is not an acceptable finish. It's only reasonable role is to "wet out" wood before applying other finishes to enhance color, etc. Only one coat is ever needed.

For an oil finish use an oil varnish mix, either commercial, or one you mix your self. Equal parts varnish, BLO, and thinner is a good ratio. Since you apply, let penetrate, and then wipe vigorously off, just like you would do BLO it builds no surface film, and ends up looking just like a BLO only finish EXCEPT it won't get dull and need refreshing nearly as quickly, AND, it will do a much better job at protection the wood from water spotting and the like.

[glenn bradley]

+1 on dye and on BLO not a film-builder. I mix TransTint with denatured alcohol. Some folks mix is with distilled water to raise the grain on purpose. Both dry quickly but the DNA, of course, dries very fast so you can continue with your protocol.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> Most 'stains' contain binders that seal the wood. The binder is like a varnish. Seals color in, seals other stuff out - like oil.

Let me clarify. Pigment based stains (oil based or waterbased) contain a resin (varnish) that dries and holds the pigment onto the wood. Pigment stain grains are too large to be absorbed into the structure of the wood. They sit of the surface. Without the resin, the pigment would fall right off or be easily wiped off if touched. The fact that the resin acts as a sealer is a is just a by-product of the need for the resin as an adhesive.

Dye stain colorant is many times smaller than pigment. As a result, dye are able to penetrate into the structure of the wood and do not need a resin in their formula.

[Jim Becker]

But remember, BLO is not an acceptable finish. It's only reasonable role is to "wet out" wood before applying other finishes to enhance color, etc. Only one coat is ever needed.

Well...that's a somewhat subjective thing. ;) It depends upon what you are actually finishing and your philosophy around the intent of the finish. Thos Moser has "gotten away" with using BLO as a primary finish for many years and I wish I could afford even one of his pieces. It's also done well on my wife's cherry desk that went into service in about 1998 and looks great with only three waxings since it was built.

That said, for most folks and for most purposes, "we" are generally best served as you say by using the BLO for initial enhancement and then proceeding to use something that provides more physical protection for the wood in the environment it's intended to live in.