SuperNova2 chuck with a side order of red loctite

[Michael Ginsberg]

Last night I attempted to change out a insert on one of my chucks. I just bought a Nova 1624 and had to covert my chuck inserts to fit. The final chuck insert would not budge. I just about hurt myself trying to loosen. After striking the wrench with a hammer and slightly rounding the corners of the nut, I looked closer through the grubscrew hole and saw to my horror RED!! This was the chuck I bought on Ebay. According to the Loctite people, the only way to get this mess undone, is to heat it with a torch to 500 degrees. HAS ANYONE BEEN IN THIS SITUATION??
Help welcome from all.

[Ken Hill]

I had to get small bolts out of a firearm that had been red-loctite'd. I used a soldering gun held to the screw. That is worth a shot if you dont happen to have a plumbers torch handy....ive used them before on motorcycle and atv parts before.

[Dale Miner]

Depending on how congenial the master chef is in your abode, you could disassemble the chuck, and put the body with the insert in your oven (not microwave), and set the temp at 425f, once hot, pull it out and give it a try. No go? reset the oven for 450f and try again. No go? reset at 475f and try again.

I think loctite starts to lose some of its strength around 350f to 400f. I don't think you will cause any distortion or loss of temper in the chuck body if the temp is kept below 500f. Doubtfull you can use a bernzomatic style propane torch and get the parts near the 500f range. A larger oxy/fuel torch would no doubt generate sufficient heat, but it could cause localized overheating or distortion if not carefull.

Loctite does have a definate smell when heated. Perhaps heating in a foil covered bread pan would keep the master chef happy and prevent the post use need for a range replacement.

[Mark Hubl]

Are you sure the red you are seeing is loc tite? Nova supplies a red fiber pad that is used in the grub screw hole to protect the threads of the insert from the grub screw.

[Roger Chandler]

Are you sure the red you are seeing is loc tite? Nova supplies a red fiber pad that is used in the grub screw hole to protect the threads of the insert from the grub screw.


Mark is correct about the fiber pad..........I would double check that to make sure!

[Michael Ginsberg]

Mark is correct about the fiber pad..........I would double check that to make sure!
Thank you all... I assumed that it must be red Loctite due to it's tightness. I put a scrap of oak in my metal vise and with the large Powergrip jaws installed on the chuck grabbing on to it, I hit the supplied wrench with my hammer. It did not budge. It actually rounded the corners of the nut. Also I tried scraping the red spot with my awl. It felt hard. No fibers came off on the awl. Just in case the insert is on very tight, and the red is not Loctite, perhaps I will try my HUGE pipe wrench and a small handheld sledgehammer. I think it is Loctite though. If this still does not work, I think I have no choice other than the heating.

[Michael Ginsberg]

IF none of the above works... Does anybody need a SuperNova2 with a slightly rounded 1" 8TPI insert?
I promise the insert will not unthread itself!!!

[Jake Helmboldt]

Take it to a auto shop and see if they can use an impact wrench on it.

[Harry Robinette]

I would fill the little hole with oil like 3 in 1 so only the hole gets oil.If its loctite the oil will not go down but the small leather dot from Nova will let the oil through.If it's the nova dot put the chuck on a solid piece of wood jaws down put another piece on the insert smack with large hammer.The shock of driving down on the threads will uselly brake what is called thread pull.Threads hold by pulling there way into the opposite thread.
This might help
Harry
PS : I would let the oil sit about 5 min.

[CW McClellan]

Which way are you trying to loosen
Try turning it the other way

[Michael Ginsberg]

I filled the hole with WD40. It did not go down. I know I am turning the insert in the correct direction because it was the third of the three inserts I did. I will try everybodies suggestions this weekend. Thank you all. The help is welcome!!

[Michael Mills]

I have never used loctite but I hear it is good stuff.
If the leather "washer" is in it, it should be under the setscrew not on top.
Could anything else be in there that is red? Maybe probe with an old dental pick?
Unless you are going to turn in reverse maybe just drill the loctite and set screw out?
Shouldn’t hurt the chuck but the old insert will probably be toast.
If you do want to turn in reverse you would have to re-tap the hole for a slightly larger screw or, or, or drop some more loctite in and let it be the new screw. I don’t remember if you remove the insert to service (clean, etc) the inside of the chuck or not.
Mike

[Michael Ginsberg]

Mike, thanks.
It is not the set screw that is stuck, it is the insert. As a matter of fact, there is no set screw. The red that I am seeing is way down in the hole where a set screw would rub the insert. Thanks

[Scott Hackler]

This might sound stupid, but if you can clamp down the chuck from moving, you might try an impact wrench in TIGHTENING direction for a second and then in reverse. Growing up on a farm, this was what we did on old rusted bolts/nuts and it + WD-40 seems to help get the nuts loose.

I would be a little scared of heat for two reasons. 1st possibly loosing teh temper of the steel and 2nd melting and non steel internals and melting all the lubricant out of the chuck.

[Michael Ginsberg]

I will bring it to someone to try the impact wrench thing. I am going to try a paint remover heat gun this weekend. If that does not work then a torch. Besides the plastic backing, which comes off (I hope), I am told that there are no parts that are anything other than the metal. The grease will melt and stink, and smoke. With the back off I can re-lube. BUT WHO KNOWS. I just hope I don't ruin the thing!

[Fred Perreault]

Mike,
Given the value of the chuck, and the multitude of possibilities for messing it up, maybe you could just get an adapter from the 1" to the 1.25" spindle? Of course, there is the possibility of introducing a wee bit of runout, but you'd still have the chuck. The 1" insert you have now has a considerable amount of meat on it, and may run quite true.

[Don McLeod]

I had to go have a look at the insert on the Super Nova 2 before I made a suggestion. The insert is basically a 1 1/2 inch hex nut and using the box end of a combination wrench you should be able to back it out. I would put a block of hardwood 2 -3 inch square in a vice, lock the jaws of the chuck over it and then try and remove the insert. If you needed some heat, the hair dryer should be of some help ( and you can see all the plastic so you can tell if it is going to melt). The impact wrench would be my next approach. If you have to take it apart, technatool has very good instructions on their website ( you will need a good set of snap ring pliers)

Keep us informed of your progress.

[Mark Hubl]

I am no metallurgist, but before I went burnin and churnin and beatin. I would throw it in the freezer over night. Then I would give it a try.

[Michael Ginsberg]

I have another idea!! Perhaps the red Loctite will get brittle when frozen and metal contracts when cold. My chuck is going in the freezer tonight next to the mint chocolate chip. WHO KNOWS!!

[Michael Ginsberg]

Fred, I never thought of that!!! Too simple.....
Michael

[Jake Helmboldt]

Fred, I never thought of that!!! Too simple.....
Michael

I and others have had good results with the PSI adaptor nad it is only about $20 if I recall. Mine runs very true on a Barracuda 2 that I had from my first lathe.

[Keith Westfall]

My chuck is going in the freezer tonight next to the mint chocolate chip. WHO KNOWS!!


If that doesn't work, put it back in the freezer, and then take out the chocolate chip :D

[Rick Markham]

Gunsmiths use Red loctite all the time, to break it loose it has to be heated. Blue loctite is broken by force. If you heat just the bolt with the torch the rest of the chuck will act as a heat sink, the loctite will come loose. I don't know the internals of your chuck, I personally wouldn't put it in the oven. I'd get a small pencil type torch and just heat the bolt.

To anneal tool steel (assuming it is 01) it has to be heated to over 1500F and cooled very very slowly. Stainless is closer to 2000F. I'm not sure if heating it to 500F would affect the temper, I would have to do some research. I personally wouldn't heat the whole thing, you don't need to, you only have to get the loctite to 500F.

I think you have probably already proved that forcing the joint is only going to damage the head of the bolt.;) If it is Red loctite, just heat the bolt until the bond is broken. Don't punish yourself further. I doubt the freezer stuff is going to work (worth a try though) That stuff is made to operate in sub zero temperatures... It's doubtfull you have a -40F blast freezer at home. Even then it probably isn't going to affect it. Good luck!

[Michael Ginsberg]

Thanks Rick.
I will be attempting to heat with a heat gun I went out and bought that goes to 1000 degrees. I will aim the gun right in the middle of the insert. There is a plastic plate on the back of the chuck which is removable. Only metal on the inside I am told. We will see... Thank you. I will post my results.
Michael

[Fred Perreault]

Mike, if you haven't started yet to heat the insert, head over to a contractor friend and borrow a 6 point socket the proper size and the breaker bar to go with it to take the insert out with. A wrench is probably going to apply very uneven pressure, and distort something...... maybe only the insert, which you hopefully won't need again.

[Michael Ginsberg]

If I haven't rounded the points that fit in the socket, will do.