On/Off Switch Trouble with Powermatic 3520b

[Jeff Paxton]

For the last month or two I have been having some trouble with my on/off switch with my 3520b. When I pull the button to start the lathe, it does nothing. I push it in and then back out and it works. It is increasingly doing this and today it just wouldn't work much at all. When it does not work, the red numbers on the invertor are still lit up, so it is getting power, I assume.

I took the cover off and blew everything off, including the "fuse looking switch" where the red pull switch is. I try to keep my lathe clean and dust free as best I can after each use.

Also, it seems like it has gotten harder to push and pull the switch--don't know if that means anything. I don't have a remote switch. Has anyone else had this trouble? I plan to call Powermatic on Monday. The lathe is about 3 years old.

Thanks,

Jeff

[Josh Bowman]

Jeff, how old is the Lathe. I just Googled Powermatic and the new ones have a 5 year warrenty.

[Ron Ainge]

Jeff

MY lathe does the same thing once in a while and when it does I shut the power off to it and let it set until I hear a very clear click in the head of the lathe. I turn it back on and it works as normal. I don't know what it is doing but it some how resets and works like new. I have never been able to figure out what is wrong with the lathe but it works for me and lets me continue to work.

[gary Zimmel]

My 3520b has done the same thing. And I too have got into the habit of unplugging it every time I leave my shop. Since I have done that I have not had a problem with it.

[Thomas Canfield]

I have not had any problems with the original switch, but have had dust problems with the shop made remote switch I added and use for normal operation. Dust is a major issue around the lathe and could be part of the problem there,, but what was described sounds more of a electronic problem if it will clear up after shutting off power. I don't know for sure, but feel like the switch itself is only power on/off and it works or does't and unless something mechanical is done (even pulling the on/off to clear dust or make contact) then the switch will not change by shutting off the power to the unit (pulling the plug). Any click there would be something in the electronics.

Maybe some electrical guy can comment here.

[Philip Duffy]

I have change out my switch but after the problem returned I discovered that the nut which holds the switch to the face place- -inside of course- - had become lose. When I tighted the nut the switch operated properly. Also, if the sw. tends to feel "squishie" I bang it home with my hand. That action must know dust/debris out of the sw. as it always works cleanly after that. Hope this helps. Phil

[Jeff Nicol]

Jeff, If the switch is getting harder to push in and pull out there may be a problem inside the switch itself. It is mechanical and a contact or any of the internal parts could be loose, or any number of things. I have had mine not work a few times over the years and mostly I think it has to do with the VFD, because if it does it look at the VFD and it may show an error message. This can be caused by a catch, using the remote and turning it off at the remote and then pushing the main off at the same time, and then trying to restart it with the remote. When it won't start I then pull out the main and for what ever reason it will try to start but by having the power go through the remote and then to the motor has caused an error in the VFD, when this happens I reset the VFD and it all goes back to normal. I have also had it happen if I am coring a lot of bowls and get a few big catches and stop the motor, the high load will trip an error sometimes too.

That being said the switch never feels like it is getting hard to move so that is why I think it could be a very dirty switch or a failure with in the switch. If you can disconnect the power and remove the switch and check it with a multi-meter for continuity turning the switch on and off, it the switch does not show an open and closed change on the meter there is a problem.

Long winded but I hope it gives some insight,

Jeff

[Josh Bowman]

That being said the switch never feels like it is getting hard to move so that is why I think it could be a very dirty switch or a failure with in the switch. If you can disconnect the power and remove the switch and check it with a multi-meter for continuity turning the switch on and off, it the switch does not show an open and closed change on the meter there is a problem.

Here's an observation. I've tinkered with electrical for years. I always feel safe, after unplugging stuff......having said that, the other day I pulled the plug on my Jet 1642 and for what ever reason turned the lathe on. The motor spun up then shut off! So if you work on the switch, be a little cautious of unplugging and jumping right in. I'm guessing the thing holds a certain amount of voltage for a period. I've never been shocked by my lathe, but that was an awakening.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Jeff said. Unplug the lathe and you will be fine.

[David Woodruff]

Mustard has a lot of problems that need fixing quickly if they wish to retain a somewhat good reputation.

[Jeff Nicol]

David, I have not had any true problems with my 3520b at all, that could be anything but lack of proper use or normal dust related issues. It is like anything if you do not do preventative maintenance things can go wrong. I think with the 10's of thousands of 3520 lathes out there in the world there are very few issues except personnel preferences or maybe a little change in style or design. You can't please everyone all the time, but I have had nothing but wonderful hours of turning on the 3520B, and for the price point it is in a class of it's own.

So I guess if you have more lathes out there being used every day there may be a few more things that happen that are negative, but a switch issue is pretty minor and is considered a consummable, just like belts and bearings, eventually they will wear out or fail depending on the amount of use and maintenance performed.

I like to think positive and think things through before I throw a Manufacturer under the bus, just my thoughts.

Jeff

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I haven't experienced any problems with my PM3520B. Good lathe for the money IMHO.

[Thomas Canfield]

I want to also say that my problems with remote switch on 3520B was on a shop made remote and not the Powermatic unit. My Powermatic has performed excellent for me from turning pens and small items up to roughing out 20" 100# globs that never were balanced from initial to finish. I definitely think it is the lathe for the $. I have purchased a dust proof switch that I will install the next time I have a problem with my current shop remote. I have had several occasions where it was very handy (saftey related) to have a switch at both ends of the lathe for shutdown and encourage any without a remote to install one.

[Jeff Paxton]

I rough turned a couple of bowls yesterday and the switch did the same thing. I did discover that when I hit the on/off button with a little pop, (little extra force) it seemed to always come back on after that. Someone mentioned doing that so I tried it. Don't have any idea what it means. With it being "sticky" or a little difficult to pull out or push in, should I put a little WD 40 on the switch? What about something like contact spray? I think I will call Powermatic tomorrow before I do anything else.

Also:

* The switch is not dirty at all. I open the cover and blow it out after most every use.

* I took the cover off where the switch is and specifically blew out the switch as well.

* I did not see anything loose as someone had referenced.

* I always unplug the lathe after use.

I will say that I love the lathe. It is quiet, smooth, and more than heavy duty enough to do what I want. I bumped up from the Jet 1442, and have never regretted it. Hopefully this is a minor thing. I really don't think it is the motor, inverter or anything major. Hope to find out tomorrow.

Jeff

[David Woodruff]

David, I have not had any true problems with my 3520b at all, that could be anything but lack of proper use or normal dust related issues. It is like anything if you do not do preventative maintenance things can go wrong. I think with the 10's of thousands of 3520 lathes out there in the world there are very few issues except personnel preferences or maybe a little change in style or design. You can't please everyone all the time, but I have had nothing but wonderful hours of turning on the 3520B, and for the price point it is in a class of it's own.

So I guess if you have more lathes out there being used every day there may be a few more things that happen that are negative, but a switch issue is pretty minor and is considered a consummable, just like belts and bearings, eventually they will wear out or fail depending on the amount of use and maintenance performed.

I like to think positive and think things through before I throw a Manufacturer under the bus, just my thoughts.

Jeff
Thanks Jeff, Sometimes I develop a bias without fine facts, you brought me back to the CL. David Woodruff

[Jeff Paxton]

Powermatic sent me out a replacement switch within a couple of days. I used the lathe yesterday for about 3-4 hours and this morning for 2-3 hours with no problems. Very happy to have the issue resolved. Thanks for all the help.

Jeff