Just got my Oshlun dado set today...

[anthony arguello]

Good morning everyone, I am new to this forum, but have been trolling and getting tons of info for a while!! thanks. I just received my Oshlun 8" dado set from Rockler today (this is my first dado set). I got them for the sale price but after shipping and taxes, $75.00. I found out about Rockler's sale through this forum (thanks!).
I can't wait to get started on my many projects. If anyone has any information regarding the proper use of a dado set, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again everyone.

[Chris Padilla]

Welcome to SMC, Anthony!

What project are you planning to use the dado set on?

[scott spencer]

Welcome to SMC Anthony.

- Stacked dado sets like yours are intended to be used with both outside cutters installed, with a distinct left and right side so be sure to always use both in the correct orientation.

- Be sure to stagger the location of the teeth relative to each cutter/chipper so the teeth don't contact each other.

- The shims are optional/as needed for fine tuning the spacing.

- Many smaller saws have arbors that are too short to accommodate entire full stack....it's possible to leave the arbor washer off, and snug the stack up using only the arbor nut IF the nut is fully seated with threads coming all the way thru the nut...that scenario will pretty much determine the widest stack you can run.

- You may want to make or buy one or a couple of throat inserts to accommodate the dado set. Start by cutting a slot for the narrowest combination first, and expand the slot as needed.

- Keep it clean, and protect the carbide teeth from impact with stone and metal objects, and it should serve you well for a long time. A carrying case of some sort is useful.

[Rod Sheridan]

One other thing to consider is a guard.

Make/buy and use either an overarm or bridge type guard when using the dado cutter.

Imagine what your hand would look like if it was grabbed by the dado blade.......Regards, Rod.

[Dave Lehnert]

One other thing to consider is a guard.

Make/buy and use either an overarm or bridge type guard when using the dado cutter.

Imagine what your hand would look like if it was grabbed by the dado blade.......Regards, Rod.

When I first started woodworking I purchased a Shopsmith. I was using the dado blade when I discovered I was cutting too deep. I let up on the pressure of the board and it kicked back. The push block I was using went right down on the blade. Thank God Shopsmith included that push block with the unit.

[anthony arguello]

Thanks for the welcome. my first project is a simple rolling miter saw cart. I made one already using a router bit and the dados I made left a lot to be desired. I honestly sped through the build due to my excitement of wanting to finish it. But I will redo that cart first off.
Scott, thanks for the heads up. I have done plenty of research on dado blades and using them and your summary was easy to understand.
Rod and dave, I will definitely be cautious of those blades getting broke in on my fingers. thanks. I have already made a couple of ZCIs. Thanks again.

[Erik Lindseth]

Hey Anthony,

Just got the same dado stack and used to make a pair of book shelves. Really cut well. Very good stack for the price.

As far as using them, its really been pretty simple.

There is a thickness guide that comes with the stack in the box. Its only one sheet and could see how someone might throw it away. It is now hanging on my shopwall and tells you exactly how to stack the blades for the appropriate thickness.

Also included with the stack are some shims all of which I believe to be the same thickness, for fine tuning thickness. Only instruction on these is not to stack them and put them between different blades towards the middle (if using more than one).

Its obvious looking at the stack which two blades got on the outside. Just look at each of the outside blades closely and put on arbor to the higher part of the carbide tip of each blade are on the outside of your cut.

The rest is a matter of protecting the carbide on the blades and staggering the carbide tips as much as possible. In addition, I'm going to invest in a nice protective case with multiple slots for protective storage.

Last but not least, and I'm sure you already know this. Always start cuts with a test piece.

[Doug Shepard]

Eberything Scott said plus:
-Try to use backer boards when cutting dados/rabbets. The tearout from a dado stack can be pretty bad where it exits the work at the back edge. The alternative is to cut pieces about 1/2" overwide, then rip that extra 1/2" off after all the dado cuts have been made.

[Thomas Canfield]

To add to Doug's - you can use an auxillary fence clamped to your normal fence and bury the daddo blade in the sacrificial fence to cut a rabbet less than the full width of the daddo stack. This is helpful to make minor adjustments and avoid restacking the blades some times. Rockler and others have clamps for that purpose, or for some fences the auxillary blade can be fastened to the fence with screws.

[anthony arguello]

Erik, the SECOND thing I did after opening the box was to look for 'that folded piece of paper' that came with the stack!! I had already set it aside as I admired my new purchase. I have laminated it so I can keep it up near my saw. I do have a question regarding the 1/4" set up. According to the sheet I have to stack the two blades. As I do that, it seems that the teeth touch, but shouldn't I keep the carbide tips form touching? I am assuming that this is what it would look like mounted on the arbor. Thanks for all the feedback. Tony.

[Brian Hughner]

Anthony,

I picked up this same set a few months ago to do some kitchen cabinet work. The set works great, I think you'll love how well it works.

As for the 1/4" setup, what you are showing is correct. Just make sure the teeth are offset like the picture shows and you should be good to go. Also, when doing deeper rabbets and dado's do them in multiple passes, with each pass cutting a little deeper. This will help a lot with the tear-out.

When doing rabbets and especially dado's I don't like to have my hands pass over the blades, even when I use push blocks. Whenever possible I will use feather boards attached to my fence to keep the board tight to the table so I don't have to be pushing down on the board as it passes over the blades.

One correction to Erik's comments - the package does contain shims, but they are not all the same thickness. The shims come in multiple thicknesses and you may find you have to mix and match different size shims to get the exact right width for whatever you are doing.

[Jim Rimmer]

Erik, the SECOND thing I did after opening the box was to look for 'that folded piece of paper' that came with the stack!! I had already set it aside as I admired my new purchase. I have laminated it so I can keep it up near my saw. I do have a question regarding the 1/4" set up. According to the sheet I have to stack the two blades. As I do that, it seems that the teeth touch, but shouldn't I keep the carbide tips form touching? I am assuming that this is what it would look like mounted on the arbor. Thanks for all the feedback. Tony.
Looks like you've got it right. Just don't let the carbide tips touch/bump together.

[Van Huskey]

Erik mentioned it but I will say it again, buy or make a holder for the stack. Dado stacks are more prone to carbide chipping since you are storing more than one blade. Carbide is hard but relatively brittle and doesn't like being hit against itself.

[Kyle Brooks]

I have that exact same dado. I really like it. I have used it for a couple of projects. The only other dado I have had was a cheap Craftsman. Night and day difference. Like someone posted before, make a holder of some sort to keep the teeth from chipping. The other thing I did was I took a 2X6 that is 12 to 15 inches long and I started to make a gauge. I started with the smallest cut the dado would make, (1/4", the two outside cutters I believe) and then went up incrementally using just the two cutters and the different chippers. Each cut I marked what blades I used and the thickness of the cut. I did not use the shims while doing this. I now have a gauge that I can pull down and check the fit on joint I am trying to make. If it is a hair under I can then go to adding my shims. Just a thought for ya. It has been amazing for me in the amount of time it has saved once the gauge was built.