Corner Clamping

[Steve Friedman]

I have been bulding some butt-jointed boxes (drawers, cabinets, etc) for some shop storage and, since I am working alone, always seem to have problems keeping the sides square while I am securing them. I usually use 90 degree angloe brackets and clamps, but they are bulky and always seem to slip.

Even when I use a Kreg jig, I have the same problem. In fact, it's even worse because the clamps and brackets are in the way of the Kreg holes.

So, I was thinking that some corner clamps would be the answer and was wondering if anyone has any feedback about how effective they are. The ones I am looking at all seem rather similar in that both pieces are being held by one clamp:

Woodpecker Box Clamp
Bessey WS3 Corner Clamp
Lee Valley Miter Clamp

(Pictures attached)

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Steve

[harry strasil]

Just take a small square of scrap plywood and make a shopmade clamp similar to the first picture, but with a square piece glued and screwed in the center and some more scraps an inch or so wide glued and screwed on the outside but at an angle so you can use some wedges made of scrap material and tap them in place to hold the corner, you will need a couple of scrap pieces as thick as the base of the corner clamp to put under the two sides so that it doesn't set at an angle.

[glenn bradley]

As Harry states. I have a half a dozen or so of these in different sizes.

[Tom Hargrove]

In my experience, most angle/miter clamps such as these will firmly hold the pieces in place, and give you access to install nails or other fasteners in the joint. You can even make a fixture that holds pieces at a 90 degree angle with a piece of Melamine or laminate covered plywood (glue won't stick to it) and some blocks screwed to hold the pieces at 90 degrees. However, none of these alternatives do anything to guarantee that the miter joint will close up nice and tight. The only product I've seen that closes the joint are pinch clamps, or a more elaborate device marketed as "Clam Clamp," which was designed for use in trim carpentry. They seem to work, but can leave dimples on the outside of the joint.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Get a set of parallel jaw clamps long enough to clamp the cabinets together. The big jaws hold them at 90. They go on the outside, so your Kreg pocket screws holes are free to access.

Just my $0.02.

[Jay Yoder]

I have the Besseys (HF makes them now too) and they work good and allow access. They also allow joining different thicknesses. They hold securely once the panels are aligned. I would start by using the shop-made ones that look like a triangle. I actually have them designed in various sizes, but not build yet.