More "glue up" opinions

[Maurice Arney]

I'm wondering what most people do for gluing up desk/table tops? Do you use a joining mechanism like a biscuit joiner? or do you just glue and clamp? Does it depend on the material?

I'm a beginner and I've been practicing on pine. I have tried it both ways with mixed results. Now getting ready to glue up an oak desktop for the first time using premium grade hardwood. I just want to know what more experienced wood workers do.

Thanks!

[John Keeton]

Does it depend on the material?Maurice, from my experience, a good, well aligned, long grain joint, will hold just fine without biscuits, etc. However, I think a lot of these joints fail for lack of taking the time and effort to achieve a good surface and alignment.

If you are using a variety of cuts (quarter sawn, plain sawn, etc.) then you may experience some movement over time that may benefit from some other mechanism. On the other hand, such a glue up would not have the desired appearance either.

[michael case]

The biscuits are unnecessary. Plenty of desk tops were glued up before any biscuit joiner existed. Here is what is I hope useful advice. Dont' glue the top all at once. If its a 24" top say, glue up two 12" wide components, then, when they are set, glue them together. Also, if possible glue up your two components out of slightly thicker stock than your finish dimensions, then run them through the planer (clean up the heavy glue first). Several other tips for gluing up panels 1 - never be cheap on the glue. 2 - Always glue both surfaces 3- never try to do too much at once and allow the glue to skim over. If it skims over it will hold at first then come apart in a week.

[Rod Sheridan]

I also don't use biscuits, and as has been mentioned joint prep is the key.

Careful jointing and planing results in boards that are flat and straight, so they glue up perfectly.

I snug up the clamps, tap the boards into alignment with my hand and then tighten the clamps.

I don't plane completed glue ups, just the components.

I use a cabinet scraper and some light sanding to complete the finish work.

Regards, Rod.

[Prashun Patel]

Biscuits, dowels, or loose tenons are great for alignment. They minimize the amount of final surfacing required, and minimize the sweat involved in aligning cauls in the middle of the joint.

[Bill Huber]

When I glue up a panel I use a few dowels, not as much for strength but more for alignment.

As has been stated I glue up a panel in sections, do half of it and then the other half and then glue up the whole thing. With the glues that are out there today you can clamp it up for 30 min. and then do the next clamp up.

This works for me the best, just make sure you lay out your panel and mark it so you know just who you want them to be. Make sure all the edges are square and smooth.

[Fred Belknap]

All the above is good advise however I don't think that not using biscuits or dowels is superior to using them. They may not be needed but what the heck I use them anyway. An extra pair of clean underwear never hurts.

[Philip Rodriquez]

As others have said, you can just go with glue. A proper glue joint will actually be stronger than the wood.

With that said, I'll only use biscuits when I need help aligning surfaces, at glue-up. Just keep track of where you put them!

[Charlie Jones]

I use biscuits for a large top, otherwise just glue clamps and a mallet to aline them.

[Mike Circo]

I don't use biscuits or additional alignment methods (I don't think biscquits add any strength in a large glue up like this)

However, one technique I've found helpful is to clamp from one side and continue to the other, rather than adding clamps randomly. IE. First clamp near left edge... Align all boards in glueup and then tightnen that clamp about 90%. Then move right a few inches to the next clamp. You can pull up or push down the boards to get the alignment just right... then tighten that clamp about 90%. Repeat left to right all the way down. When you reach the end, cinch down all clamps to the desired pressure.

You should end up with an easier adjustment, fewer ridges in the top and a quick and easy glue up. Nothing needed except boards of exactly the same thickness.

One last note. You indicate that you are using "premium grade hardwood". Is that an indication that you are using already planed and thicknessed wood purchased as-is? If so, there is no guarantee that each board will be EXACTLY the same thickness. Expect some variations. If you don't have a planer to use, and do the clamp up as I described, you can allow the thickness variances to appear on the bottom face.

[Greg Portland]

I used to use biscuits for alignment but now prefer the use of cauls during glue-up. The cauls will align the glueup in a flat plane, biscuits do not offer that guarantee.

[Paul Murphy]

I don't use biscuits to glue table tops any more, as I never found them to be all that precise at aligning the surface. You also have to locate them carefully so as to not expose them when crosscutting the table top to finished size. Unless you leave your markings on the underside of the table top, you run the risk of cutting into your biscuits if you ever resize or repurpose your table top.

I like to use a few plywood "T rests" to set my boards on. The clamps fit nicely underneath, and some wax paper keeps them from getting glued to the project.

Like other posters, I only glue as many boards as I can manage in one session, and 45 minutes between sessions is fine for my purposes. I think I have learned the false productivity lesson...what is the point of rushing a glue-up, only to spend triple the time leveling your glue joints.

Enjoy your nice oak lumber, it's going to be very satisfying when you have it finished!

[Maurice Arney]

I don't use biscuits or additional alignment methods (I don't think biscquits add any strength in a large glue up like this)

However, one technique I've found helpful is to clamp from one side and continue to the other, rather than adding clamps randomly. IE. First clamp near left edge... Align all boards in glueup and then tightnen that clamp about 90%. Then move right a few inches to the next clamp. You can pull up or push down the boards to get the alignment just right... then tighten that clamp about 90%. Repeat left to right all the way down. When you reach the end, cinch down all clamps to the desired pressure.

You should end up with an easier adjustment, fewer ridges in the top and a quick and easy glue up. Nothing needed except boards of exactly the same thickness.

One last note. You indicate that you are using "premium grade hardwood". Is that an indication that you are using already planed and thicknessed wood purchased as-is? If so, there is no guarantee that each board will be EXACTLY the same thickness. Expect some variations. If you don't have a planer to use, and do the clamp up as I described, you can allow the thickness variances to appear on the bottom face.

Yes, I bought 5/4 x 6 (5 1/2) oak planks planed to size. Thanks for the "heads up" on sizing. I would have assumed theyt were all the same!

[Maurice Arney]

Thank you everyone for the advice. I will post a picture of my desk when it is finished! I've learned some good tips here!