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View Full Version : One Saw a Week: 26-inch Atkins No 53 rip saw – 5 ½ TPI



Jonathan McCullough
10-20-2010, 12:32 PM
Another installment in the series designed to shame myself into turning that hulking pile of steel and wood into a serviceable saw collection reveals a special saw that no one but myself will probably ever use: A 26-inch Atkins No. 53 filed rip with 5 ½ TPI.

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss199/Jonathryn/One%20Saw%20a%20Week/DSC02951.jpg

Like most Atkins saws, it cleaned off very nicely. I think the special "Silver Steel" they advertised was merely a thin nickel coating used to make their saws look polished like the high-class Disston Nos. 12 and 16. The patent they used for their special "Damaskeened Steel" on other saws (like the "Rex") amounts to what is really a decorative nickel-plating finish to make the saw resemble steel created using the painstaking Damascus process, which has an attractive variegated marble-y look.

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss199/Jonathryn/One%20Saw%20a%20Week/DSC02953.jpg

But nickel resists corrosion, and that is essentially what an etch is: Corrosion (by ferric chloride most likely), and the etch on this saw, like other Atkinses, suffers from the fact that the etching is light. It's still detectable, but difficult to photograph.

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss199/Jonathryn/One%20Saw%20a%20Week/DSC02954.jpg

The handle of this saw shows some interesting characteristics. Doubtless Atkins wanted to speed up production and lower costs, and aspects of this saw reveal machine work not previously evident on older Atkinses. Gone are the wheat carvings, instead they used giant presses to emboss this interesting turn-of-the century art nouveau-like floral pattern. There are also a couple of ridges forward of the top horn that are curved in a way that would be difficult to do consistently on a production line without a cutter head.

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss199/Jonathryn/One%20Saw%20a%20Week/DSC02952.jpg

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss199/Jonathryn/One%20Saw%20a%20Week/DSC02955.jpg

The upper horn on this example was nailed in with brads and then screwed in for good measure. The break was old and filled with dirt and gunk, so I leveled it off and made up the difference with a cherry racing stripe, and retraced the floral pattern with a little careful gouge work. I drilled out the hole for the screw and replaced it with a dowel, and filled in the holes from the brads with a little wood putty. There was also a dent from being in a garbage can with other saws and this one's handle had bumped into the teeth of another saw.

Following George Wilson's observations, I used tung oil and I'd have to say it's pretty good advice. It came out nicely to my eyes.

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss199/Jonathryn/One%20Saw%20a%20Week/DSC02956.jpg

The plate had a small kink toward the toe, and I've gotten along in my saw repairing enough that I felt confident in doing something about it. The plate was straight but there was a bump near the teeth from some past foolishness. While using the saw, it kinked up on me at the point of this bump. I put three pieces of wood in my bench clamp, each about 3/8" square and 2" long, and arranged them in a manner so that I was able to fashion an alternating tooth-pattern vise to gently re-kink the bump in the opposite direction to my satisfaction. Sort of like resetting a bone.

My theory about kinks and dents in saw plates is that nothing you do will ever make it perfect or like new, and that any additional work you do on it will work harden areas of the plate and add imperfections, if countervailing ones. Like scar tissue on a patient: First, do no harm. It's risky business, but it straightened the plate and reduced the size of the bump so that it won't rear its ugly head during use. Again, sort of hard to photograph.

The result is a fantastic rip saw. The steel quality is superb, the weight of the saw is just right, it tracks wherever I point it. I think Bob Rozaieski has one of these and in one of his podcasts he gets this fiendishly delighted look as he's ripping through some wood. I now know why.

The Atkins "perfect" style handle is okay, the bump at the palm is a bit pronounced, I've felt more comfy handles, but the five-fingered "ham hand" grip is okay for big ripping operations.

I'll probably never sell this one. I'll bet someone would want a discount for the bump toward the end (I couldn't not mention something like that) but despite the fact that it is fixed and doesn't affect the use of the saw, I just like this saw too much.

David Weaver
10-20-2010, 12:52 PM
The first two saws I ever got were two atkins, I think 53s, with the pressed pattern. I think I got them because they were cheap, but they are decent saws to use. When you're used to the english orientation of totes, their grip is like a D-8 times two.

The pressed floral pattern on mine hurts my eyes every time I see it.

I just googled to find pictures to try to figure out for sure which atkins model my saws are, and of course, a page with a dealer wanting $130 each for those saws comes up with "rare" next to every one :rolleyes:

A fixable kink just makes for a keeper saw, it's something that scares everyone away. I have an older disston D8 short panel saw that's somewhere in the neighborhood of 11 tpi that I'd like to get rid of like the plague, one of the auction site cases where you ask the seller if the saw is straight and they tell you "yes" and it comes with just a small enough kink to be visible and ruin your day, but not enough to keep the saw from working once you tap most of it out (or even before). You can always turn them into scratch stock, though, and steal the saw nuts and medallions out of them!

george wilson
10-20-2010, 5:06 PM
Jonathan,the term "silver steel" was a term they used to call carbon steel. It has a brighter,more silvery color than wrought iron,which is a gray color even when polished.

Samuel Colt described his 1860 Army model as being made of "silver steel." He was able to make the barrel thinner,since the new steel was stronger,and homogenous. Not layered with silicon inclusions like wrought iron was(and sometimes blew up in gun barrels).

The silver steel he was referring to was just mild steel,though. Higher carbon saw spring steel would still be silvery looking,and still be silver steel.

I think the term may still be used in England,and may have even originated there.

Jonathan McCullough
10-21-2010, 10:34 AM
David, I think the No. 53 is Atkins's answer to the very successful D-8. From the examples I have and have used, my observation thus far is that I like the 53 better, but I haven't used or evaluated every saw out there, so that's qualified by the fact that I reserve the right to change my mind at any time!

George, that's an interesting bit of nomenclature. I'm not certain but I think old E.C. Atkins himself was a Brit, like old Henry Disston. One of Atkins's second line of saws was called "Sheffield" and the wikipedia entry for "Silver Steel" indicates it's much the same steel as what is called drill rod in the states. Regardless, I think Atkins used a liberal application of nickel. Nickel plated steel saw nuts and bolts were an upgrade on premium saws, rather than the regular brass. I'm thinking (and I may be wrong) that the "Damaskeened" steel was an application of nickel to regular cast steel (Thomas L. Wallace, July 7, 1896, patent number D25,763 (http://patimg2.uspto.gov/.piw?docid=D0025763&PageNum=1&IDKey=7A87E647D495&HomeUrl=http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2%2526Sect2=HITOFF%2526p=1%2526u=% 25252Fnetahtml%25252FPTO%25252Fsearch-bool.html%2526r=1%2526f=G%2526l=50%2526co1=AND%252 6d=PALL%2526s1=D025,763.PN.%2526OS=PN/D025,763%2526RS=PN/D025,763), H/T Josh Clark), with possibly the addition of some grinding. A lot of the old Atkins saws, when they degrade, have the appearance of scratched up nickel plating on the surface of a regular saw. Some of the never-used saws you see on ebay from time to time look like the bumper of a 1950's Buick right out of the car wash. I'm almost certain they're nickel plated.

David Weaver
10-21-2010, 10:41 AM
David, I think the No. 53 is Atkins's answer to the very successful D-8. From the examples I have and have used, my observation thus far is that I like the 53 better, but I haven't used or evaluated every saw out there, so that's qualified by the fact that I reserve the right to change my mind at any time!

The orientation of the tote on the 53s is so aggressive that you can really get into the wood with a stroke and take a big bite. I don't let my saws get really dull, but I would think with the atkins saws, even if they get a little dull, you can still lean on them pretty easily and get good performance, at a level more so even than a D8. I like them both, though I like london pattern totes a little more from an idealistic standpoint, in practice they are all very good saws, and though I like the london pattern saws better, the aggressiveness in the D8s and atkins saws maybe makes them better in practice, especially when speed matters.

That one is definitely nicer and cleaner than my atkins saws!

Mike Allen1010
02-24-2011, 8:15 PM
I am a newbie here, but have to say I really appreciate the collective knowledge and helpfulness of this community.

Now with the "buttering up" out of the way; I have a number of Atkins saws, some with a carved wheat design and others with the embossed floral design on the handle. Can these be used to date the saw or is it just a matter of a difference from one model to another?

I'm also trying to identify some of my Atkins without a visible etch. Some have what appear to be nickel plated brass screw/medallions, while others are solid brass;are these characteristics of individual models, or do they just vary over time within the same model?

The information I can find on the web doesn't have a complete catalog of their saws, for example I can't find anything about the "Rex" models. I would appreciate any suggestions about where I can find more information.

Thanks in advance for any help or info. you can offer!

Mike Allen1010
02-24-2011, 8:16 PM
I am a newbie here, but have to say I really appreciate the collective knowledge and helpfulness of this community.

Now with the "buttering up" out of the way; I have a number of Atkins saws, some with a carved wheat design and others with the embossed floral design on the handle. Can these be used to date the saw or is it just a matter of a difference from one model to another?

I'm also trying to identify some of my Atkins without a visible etch. Some have what appear to be nickel plated brass screw/medallions, while others are solid brass;are these characteristics of individual models, or do they just vary over time within the same model?

The information I can find on the web doesn't have a complete catalog of their saws, for example I can't find anything about the "Rex" models. I would appreciate any suggestions about where I can find more information.

Thanks in advance for any help or info. you can offer!

Mike Allen

Jonathan McCullough
02-24-2011, 10:40 PM
Hi Mike,

There are a lot of saws out there, but generally on the Atkins saws a chip carved wheat design will be either early (pre- 1900) or fairly late (1940s - approximately 1960). I'm going to go out on a limb and say that I think the pressed floral design came in about 1900 and went to about the 1930s, due to the art nouveau style of the design and the condition of the saws I've seen. One of the better online resources I've seen out there for Atkins saws is here on SMC (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?123261-Handsaw-Atkins-No-69) by noted saw doctor Darryl Weir. Probably your best bet would be to start a new thread with photographs.

Mike Allen1010
02-26-2011, 11:27 PM
Jonathan,

Thanks very much for your help! I really appreciate your information. I'm guessing from the their general condition- my carved wheat handle Atkins are from the latter period.

I'm embarrassed to admit I've never posted anything on a bulletin board -so I'm going to have to get my kids to help me with the whole "start a thread" and post photo I.T. skills.

I do have one of Darryl's 28" Disston No. 12 rip saw and it is the smoothest saw in my till -so I'm highly motivated to build me computer skills so I can benefit from the knowledge of folks like you and him.

Thanks again!