Used or Craigslist prices.

[Kent E. Matthew]

What is the general consensus on buying used woodworking equipment? My sensibility are as follows. If a machine is in good condition half of the new price is in order. Any problems, defects, wear, tear, or problems you would deduct accordingly. Am I being unreasonable?

[Peter Aeschliman]

Having sold a handful of machines on Craigslist, I think you're right on. 50% of retail if it's in good condition.

There are exceptions... i.e., an unused/brand new machine could get 75% of new.

But I think you're being reasonable.

[michael case]

Most times half, but on certain items with a good reputation sellers will ask, and get, more than half. I sold a five-year-old PM 66 that was in perfect shape. I got more than half and multiple offers. In most cases though I would agree with you. But don't be too rigid with this rule when comes to tried and true machines that are really worth more than half. Some of these exceptions to the rule are lifetime industrial machines that will give decades of service and therefore will command more than half their initial value even if they are several years old.

[Paul McGaha]

Kent

I think 50% of current pricing is fair. I've bought a couple of used tools (from creekers) and thats the ratio I used to make my offer.

Hopefully the tool might come with some extras (Such as a Mobile Base, Sand Paper for Sanders) to help cover your costs to pick it up.

PHM

[Scott T Smith]

Most times half, but on certain items with a good reputation sellers will ask, and get, more than half. I sold a five-year-old PM 66 that was in perfect shape. I got more than half and multiple offers. In most cases though I would agree with you. But don't be too rigid with this rule when comes to tried and true machines that are really worth more than half. Some of these exceptions to the rule are lifetime industrial machines that will give decades of service and therefore will command more than half their initial value even if they are several years old.


+1. 50% is a good guide, but it depends upon the machine. I've paid up to 80% for ones that are "as -new".

[Mike Cruz]

I have bought and sold on CL. In both cases, excellent to decent condition. In both cases, 30-50% of new, not original price. I have sold some stuff that was virtually new for 33% of new because I wanted it gone now. I've sold some stuff that was in good used condition for 50% of new because I had the time to wait for the right buyer. Likewise, I've bought things in the same condition for the same percentages for the same reasons.

[Jerome Hanby]

If I were buying from a "trusted" source, then 50% might be a good guideline. Any other situation, it really depends on how much I want an item and what I'll got to go through to get it. Long travel times, power situations where I can't run the machine before deciding, things of that nature back me down on what I'm willing to spend. I think the best way to get a good buy is to show up first and have cash in your pocket, it's hard to let those greenbacks walk out the door. If you are wanting to sell an item and get top dollar then don't be in any hurry; figure in a "knock off" amount into your asking price; and never wait on anyone to show up, first to show up with the cash buys the item.

[George Sanders]

I have sold items on C-List for more than they were new. Mainly they were old machines that I bought low and cleaned up and got operational. Price is always dictated by whatever the market will bear. Price it higher to start and you can always lower it.

[Brandon Weiss]

...Price is always dictated by whatever the market will bear. Price it higher to start and you can always lower it.

An item is only worth what somebody will pay for it. When I list something on CL I purposely list it for more than I want because I know the first thing people are going to do is ask me to lower the price.

[Kent E. Matthew]

I am in the market for a planer and a band saw. An add popped up locally. I thought finally I won't have to drive 200 miles to pick up a piece. He has a General 14" band saw. Retail 900. He priced it at 800. I'll sit on it. He has my email. I might go for it if he came down to 600.

[Stephen Cherry]

I am in the market for a planer and a band saw. An add popped up locally. I thought finally I won't have to drive 200 miles to pick up a piece. He has a General 14" band saw. Retail 900. He priced it at 800. I'll sit on it. He has my email. I might go for it if he came down to 600.


800 dollars is unrealistic. I've noticed that there are all sorts of sellers, some just want it gone (25-33%), some are reasonable (50%), and some delusional. 800 dollars for a 900 dollar saw seems delusional.

Is a general bandsaw that much better than a delta? I've seen solid older delta saws for around 200 dollars. Personally, if you are considering spending 800 dollars, I would try for something bigger. In the bandsaw world, size matters. It gives you a bigger table, higher resaw (the importance of which is generally overstated) and the ability to run a wider blade at higher tension.

I drove well over 200 miles for my aggazani bandsaw, as well as for my jointer. My table saw was about 400 miles away, but luckily the seller was motivated, and I slipped him some traveling money, so it was delivered. The way I look at it, a day driving to get a machine that may be with you for the rest of your life is time well spent.

[Eric DeSilva]

An item is only worth what somebody will pay for it. When I list something on CL I purposely list it for more than I want because I know the first thing people are going to do is ask me to lower the price.

Exactly correct. No formula will work. Take Festool or Lie Nielsen, for example--those brands command prices that are shockingly close to retail even on the used market. It is because people will pay that much. The best gauge is looking at other ads to see what things seem to be selling for.

[Philip Rodriquez]

I completely agree that supply and demand will dictate the price. Start high and work your way down.

If I see something I like, I shoot the person an offer. Sometimes I win and sometimes I lose. A few years back, I purchased an almost new Jet 1100 Can unit for $180… and the person was asking $400. When I purchased my cyclone, I sold the Jet (in one day) for $300.00!

A few months ago, I purchased a 3’x4’x 6” granite inspection plate, with a mobile table, for $310.00. The table runs $450 and Grade A tables start well over a $1,000.

A few weeks ago, a guy was selling a Griz 2 HP cyclone… I offered him $400… and he countered with $500. Since I already have an Oneida V-3000, I passed on the deal. IMHO, $500 would have been a great deal!

[Chip Lindley]

Kent, you are getting a feel for it by now. Contributors above have told it like it is.

If you browse CL every day like I do, within a 300+ mile radius of home base, You will get a great understanding of what different machines sell for. (or Don't)

There are literally TONS of 14" bandsaws on CL. Many are vintage or recent Delta; many are Chinese knockoffs. The worst are the knockoffs of the knockoffs for $350!! lol!

Some sellers wish to unload Now; others are on a Fishing expediton. Remember, you are dealing with some sellers totally unfamiliar with grandpa's old "thingamajig" in the basement. Others are resellers who make a business of it. In the middle are those who just wish to move out surplus items at a fair price for them and the buyer.

Used 15" and 20" import Planers are very over-priced as a rule. But, 13" original Rockwell/Deltas usually go dirt cheap! Go Figure! Remember that there are always exceptions on a daily basis. The Early Bird catches the real bargains. They don't last very long!

[Gary Hodgin]

50 percent is about the top figure for me on pieces of used electrical equipment. There are some exceptions, but they have to be exceptional. I'm not good at fixing motors and such, so I'm not interested in things that need a little of this and a little of that. I go to CL for deals and can usually find them with a little patience.

[Stephen Cherry]

Used 15" and 20" import Planers are very over-priced as a rule. !


The funny thing about the import planers is the big difference in asking price for machines that came from the same factory in Tiawan. Powermatics are sometimes much more than the lesser known brands, even though they are 99.99% the same machine.

[Van Huskey]

50% is a good starting point BUT fair prices vary a lot from there. It is like asking what is a good price for a used car... and it works a lot like that. BMWs will have higher resale values as a percentage than a Chevrolet, low miles will also cost you more. You really have to look at each item and really consider what it is worth to you. I usually start with getting the exact cost of the closest currently available tool with shipping/liftgate, tax etc. Then I consider any positives and negatives for the used vs new not counting price. Once all this is said and done I have a price I am willing to pay for the used machine, then deduct a resonable amount for my time and any extra costs associated with getting the used machine home. Then it is haggle time.

[Paul Johnstone]

It all depends. Some items don't come up for sale "used" very often in a given area and thus hold their resale value well.
Example.. I sold a Vega duplicator for more than 50% new.. Someone drove over 3 hours to pick it up. He said he had been searching the larger area for months. It was a great deal for both of us.

Sometimes it's better to buy something for less than optimal used price. You get to start using it now. You might saving gas/traveling time.
Other items aren't really needed, and you might be willing to wait years to get the super deal on.

[John Nesmith]

I check the tools section of CL almost every day. The prices on almost all items amaze me. People buy a tool from one of the big box stores for the standard, non-sale price - say $200. They want $180 for it, because that's 10% less than they paid, and it's "as good as new".

With a little research, the same tool, brand new, can be purchased elsewhere for $139. I offer $80, or 58% of what I would pay for it new with a full warranty, and they think I'm crazy. What they paid for it is completely irrelevant to the purchaser, but they just don't get that.

[Gene Waara]

I've become quite the CL tool wh**e the last couple of years. There are incredible deals but I have developed a few "rules". If you really need it and the price/quality are right - move fast. If you are luke warm on an item/price either wait a few days or even weeks before you call and make an offer. The seller will be much more willing to negotiate and if it disappears before you can contact the seller another, better one will eventually surface. To save time, before I go to look at the item I will inquire if the buyer is firm on his price. Yes or no, you have an idea where you can go with offers. I have only paid asking a couple of times; either the buyer would not move on price and I wanted the item, or the price was already so reasonable I was too embarrased to go lower (ex: $75 for a new in box Freud SD608 dial-a-width dado set- unhappy ex-wife that got some tools in the divorce). Keep a list of items that you are looking for, know their value, and check CL regularly. I only buy lightly used, in like-new condition. I'm a hobbyist, not a tool restorer. Some really enjoy that activity, but I like to use my tools immediately. I had plenty of fun restoring classic cars in the past but those days are largely behind me.