New bies clone fence catching miter slots

[Ben Hatcher]

I bought a Shop Fox G9220 fence for my old craftsman table saw. Installation was pretty simple, but I'm having a slight issue with the bottom of the faces catching in the miter slots. I've seen other models of this fence that have a little foot that extends down and rides on the back rail. This one doesn't have that. It just has 3 slick pads that the rear of the fence rides on.

Other than removing or adding to these slides, there doesn't seem to be any way to adjust the height of the faces on the far end of the fence. I can adjust the front by raising us the guide rail. My plan was to side the fence over until the rail slipped into a miter slot, then mark the table height with a knife, then remove the extra with a plane.

Has anyone else had a problem like this with a Biesemeyer style fence?

[Bruce Wrenn]

If you bought the fence new,what did Shop Fox tell you? When I build a Biese clone, I add the sides to the tube with the tube resting on the saw top, then add pads. This creates the needed clearance.

[Ben Hatcher]

As I wrote in my post, they say nothing in the instructions about adjusting the fence to the table other than adjusting the front. However, that does not fix the catch on the back side. I'm sure that my kludge will work just fine.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I have the same fence and have not had a problem with it on my Unisaw. I would suggest loosening the fence faces with the fence resting on the table and then retightening and seeing if that fixes it. If not, you can take them off and run them over a jointer until they don't catch.

The front side has an elevation adjustment but the back doesn't.

[Bart Leetch]

If you joint them set your jointer for about 1/32".

[Jim O'Dell]

Is your Craftsman saw one with the webbed extensions? My Ridgid 3612 did the same thing because the pad would drop into the open webs. I repositioned the pad where it rides on the back edge that is solid, and no more problems. Just a thought. Jim.