SawStop, blade size, and brake adjustments needed.

[Drew Sanderson]

I was a using a new Freud blade ( LM74M010 ) on my SawStop ICS and in the middle of a rip it powered down (brake did not trigger). The error code indicated the brake was too far from the blade. I looked at the brake distance and it was too far. I made the brake distance adjustment and all was well. I thought that just vibration had made it move away. I was wrong. I went to put another blade on and the brake was too close. For all my blades including dado I never have to adjust the brake except this new blade. What a pain! Am I crazy to think that a 10" blade would be 10 inches? I think I am going to contact freud and see what they are willing to do. Has this kind of thing happened to anyone else?

[Mike Gottlieb]

Drew, I use several Freud and Forrest blades interchangeably on my Sawstop ICS and have never had a problem.
Mike

[Will Overton]

There was a thread on this topic not too long ago. Not all 10" blades are a full 10". None are after sharpening. Adjusting the brake isn't that big a deal [ 15 seconds], and according to SS should be done whenever you change blades.

[Matt Kestenbaum]

All of my blades need dialing in or out with my PCS...Amana 20 tpi rip is the biggest adjustment...its like 1/8" bigger that my Forest WWII. BTW, SawStop customer service recommended to me that I use US nickel as my gauge when setting the brake gap.

[Will Overton]

I just checked the SS PCS manual, third printing.

Page 30 specifies that not all 10 inch blades are the same size.
Page 31 indicates that a nickle can be used.


As Norm always said, before using your power tool ... "Read and Understand ..." Norm gave good advice and even though he retired, his advice is still valid.

[Drew Sanderson]

The part that stood out in my manual reading ( its been a while ) is to fully spin the blade to make sure it clears the brake. I think I will buy an extra 8mm hex to keep with my blade wrenches so I don't have to go to the tool box every time. I am really curious how the machine knows the brake is too far away and why it required the machine to be under a load before it detected the situation. Thanks for the insight everyone!

[John Coloccia]

Didn't yours come with the magnetic yellow gauge with the wrench stuck to it?

[Drew Sanderson]

I bought it at an auction and it is the first generation. I did not know that existed. Perhaps I will call SawStop and order it from the parts department.

[Matt Kestenbaum]

My PCS came with the little yellow tab on the hex wrench, but when I was speaking with Customer Service (about a different matter) I mentioned that the yellow plastic gauge was getting nicked as a result of use and that I was worried it would not remain accurate...and the rep agreed that a nickel is the perfect gauge. I still keep the yellow tab and wrench on the side of the cabinet, but have a found a t-handle type wrench more comfortable and the nickel works well.

[Drew Sanderson]

Good insight matt. Thanks.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Most of my blades are interchangable without adjustments, but when I go to my dado set, I need to adjust it just a little, and even at the max adjustment it's still very close (much closer than when I am using a normal blade). Haven't had a problem with it. It might add maybe 15 seconds on the time to change between blades, so I don't think it's a problem.

[Rob Price]

I guess I've found the sweet spot. I can change my WWII to my Freud rip to my Oshlun dado set (and brake) without touching the adjustment. I will check it again though next time with the feeler.

When I first got the PCS I did have to adjust between my thin kerf Freud blade and the included blade. My full kerf ripping blade does not need the adjustment. I winder if the thin kerf blades are a little smaller as well.

[johnny means]

One solution is to have your spare brake adjusted and labeled for smaller blades. We do all have a spare brake, right?

[Jay Allen]

One solution is to have your spare brake adjusted and labeled for smaller blades. We do all have a spare brake, right?

That would take longer than just adjusting the one that is already there. It only takes a few seconds, especailly if you keep a dedicated Allen wrench handy.

[Kevin Groenke]

One solution is to have your spare brake adjusted and labeled for smaller blades. We do all have a spare brake, right?

This wouldn't work as the adjustment is of the saw, not the brake cartridge itself.


We don't change the brake position very often, but when I do it, I make the gap as wide as possible (I back it out until the light blinks, then bring it back in ~1/2 turn.).

We've got 100's of users and most don't know diddly about the saws. With many users changing blades, having the larger gap reduces the number of accidental trips.

A blinking light is much cheaper than an inadvertent trip. Brake/blade gap issues are our leading cause of "stops" - it would be nice if SS figured out a way to make this more foolproof.

-kg

[Will Overton]

... having the larger gap reduces the number of accidental trips.



And according to SawStop, could cause it to take longer to stop the blade.